Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

What are your trailer specs? 3,500 lb axles, brakes on one axle? 7k might but cutting it close with the weight of the trailer. Not sure.

 

5200 lb axles with brakes on both. GVWR of the trailer is 9,990 to stay under CDL requirements. Works out perfectly though because that’s the towing limit of the tundra. I also have a 2-5/16” ball.

 

Randy gets it

 

7k is cutting it way too close.

 

for the snorkel haters. 4” stainless snorkel. 4” turbo piping except where it enters the inner fender it’s reduced to 3” then back to 4” for connection to the factory air box.

compressor, locker manifold, supercharger coolant reservoir and catch can all mounted.

will check all body lines this evening then tear down for paint

 

Since I’m going all in now I’m studying some new options for the rear. Will likely pull the bed unless there’s a good reason to keep it that I’m not seeing. I’ve been looking at some trailing arm set ups, but they all seem too low for the rocks. Spring under may not be a huge loss with no weight and thus a thinner pack? It ain’t gotta be cozy since it’ll be a crawler. Nothing at speed. What’s to say a 63 swap with missing links or something from the truggy world like that? It’s all new to me so I have no idea. Just starting down the road on it.

 

Take this with a grain of salt based on my knowledge, but if you say “nothing at speed” why consider SUA or trailing arms? I would just 3 link it if crawling is the name of the game.

 

Spring under seems pretty bolt on compared to figuring out links and might have comparable travel or enough to not out pace the front. I haven’t seen much spring over that could get what spring under is getting. I have no idea though. Totally new to me. I’ve only seen trailing arms on here, I don’t think I’ve seen any 3 or 4 links, but I’m sure it’s here somewhere.

 

I've had one fail and use to run them Xd the good one pulled the car to the side and almost off the trailer since it was open down the center. I'll always run them straight now.

 

Ah I gotcha. If you look hard enough I would wager a bet that 3 link is more common simply because you can leave the stock gas tank in. 4 link and common trailing arm setups you need to move it. Though I think I saw one setup that was 3 link with trailing arms

 

Sheesh, that must’ve been terrifying.

 

Not really it was a shell of a mustang didn't weigh much and the trailer was my low boy race trailer. I looked back and saw the car had shifted so pulled over and fixed it. It wasn't even close to the worst thing I've had happen with a trailer.

 

I run axle straps on the XJ with preset chains and hooks for the rear already on the trailer set to the proper load distribution. I pull the XJ on hook the rear chains on pull forward till they're tight. Then I strap the front tighten them up vehicle in N. After all the straps are tight I put it in park. The chains with hooks I can adjust for length for different sized vehicles. I run an 18' trailer w/ 2 ft dovetail and 96 wide. No fenders I'll drive over the tires if needed.

Edit: I like loading and unloading as fast as possible and making it as simple as possible without having to adjust the vehicle a bunch ea time I load it up to get the distribution right ea time. I like quick and easy and not mucking around.

 

Yeah I have to use straps because I don’t have a parking brake anymore

 

Spring over with shock relocate is no joke in the travel department and has suited my crawling needs great. If you aren’t doing anything at speed it’s your best option without adding a ton of work in my opinion.

 

There's several crawler 3-4 link setup tacos on ig

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CIPKN9MHBJ5/

 

@WarFab Armor had a cool 3 link

And @Tacoma1192 has a killer 4 link

@Robertocritser 4link seems to work well for him.

 

Very cool. I’ve got some research to do. I don’t want to go through the trouble and expense to have minimal gains over the Archive kit. It pairs fairly well with the front and is great for a DD, but If I’m doing it again I don’t want to leave anything on the table. May try to cruise around Pirate and look at other build platforms, too. Being a double cab might hurt, but I think there’s enough room to fit all that the driveshaft can handle at least. At what point does it slip out? Haha

 

DS won't be a problem at all most buggies have a very short rear DS and long front with CB. Since it won't be a DD anymore you can get crazy with the DS and do a 1 piece with a double cardon at the Tcase then just have to rotate the axle so the pinion is in line with the DS or 1* down if doing leafs.

 

From what I’ve read a lot of driveshaft places say if your geared high to be careful of what your driveshaft speed gets to with a long 1 piece.