2GR-FKS failure at 150K, looking for input/some questions

nice way to get your post count up.

 

Had a 2003 S10 4wd nicely done up… same thing happened at 124k miles. But not before the transmission went twice, 8 donut gaskets, water pump, alternator, the p.i.t.a. starter, intake gasket, and at least 6 engine mounts. I limped it to Volkswagen and bought a TDI… 4 years later and more problems than I can list along with the obvious government bs. I finally took my father’s advice and got a Tacoma. 125k miles now and aside from the timing cover gasket while under warranty. This has been a damn great truck!

 

Mind sharing this source because it's in nothing I have ever seen. 5k is the special operating conditions per my manual.

 

This. Whole thread took a different turn after the picture, aftermarket catch can discussion, etc.

 

There was a TSB about the head which the dealers claimed not to know about..ho ho ho..73K on a daily driver not used to tow, plow, anything like that. They felt that was normal..yeah..

 

So much, just doesn't make sense lol.

 

$21K just for an engine? Or is that installed?

 

This was already posted

 

I'll see if I can find the manual, but yeah my 16 purchased in June 2015 from Manhattan Beach Toyo included a severe/special operating interval of 3,500 miles and 91 octane only fuel. It's not like there's such a problem of changing oil too much, anyway.

The mini snorkel was a gag install of spare parts from my 93 4x4 after a red light runner punched a hole in my right fender, it was only in there for a couple weeks before a new fender was slapped on. Definitely wouldn't spray into an NA toyota with an 11.8:1 compression ratio on non-borable cylinder sleeves. Maybe with stainless/inconel valves and low compression pistons but otherwise fuck that. Thats right up there with slapping on the Magnuson kit for a daily driver stupidity wise.

This issue wouldn't have anything to do with the transmission, only top off was done at 70,000 miles of about .5 qt of Toyo WS with a level check every oil change to ensure no seals were failing. It's pretty easy, overfill by 1/4 quarts and run to operating temp using the onboard diagnostics system or Toyota tech-stream and drain until no steady stream from the weep hole. Service bulletin calls for tranny fluid check at 65K along with spark plugs and valve clearance check, dealer refused to do it. Said everything would last "the life of the engine." The check is really easy to do given how much the auto tranny gear hunts.

There's no downside to having an air-oil separator on any VVTI engine. VVTI motors make a serious amount of nasty blow-by and as long as the chamber is in-line with the PCV and vacuum sealed (not vented) you'll be helping the life of the motor. All it is is a sealed, baffled chamber. Hot recirculated gas slams into the baffle and wrings out some of the oils carried in the recirculated gasses to keep it out of the intake tract. Super basic, super easy way to prolong the life of your throttle body, sensors and upper/lower intake plenum by avoiding carbon buildup.

@Skydvrr Is there anything specifically you need help understanding?

 

No más mini-snorkel. y No más engine

 

OEM long block new is $22K, or it was when I checked some months ago now.

 

My mechanic gets engines out of totaled insurance auction cars that were in good condition prior to getting wrecked whenever a customer needs an engine replacement...

 

What... is that on the upper intake runners?

 

That's what I've been looking at recently is the insurance salvage yards for engines, someone beat me to a zero-mile engine for $3200 out of a truck totaled in transit for delivery. Since I'm a poor mf I'm gonna have the engine decked and check heads for a rebuild of valves and hopefully the block is still good and it's just timing

 

Shiny tape

 

Also, my mechanic charges $3,000 to $5,000 and sometimes more for an engine replacement depending on what kind of vehicle it is and whatnot; One of his customers had a Toyota Venza 2.7L that was not well cared for by the previous owner. The engine failed at like 150K or something and my mechanic put a lower mileage engine from a total Venza in the customer's Venza for like $3,500!

 

That would have been a steal!

 

For heat reflection or something?

Just curious.

 

I know others are on other issues in this thread, but I'd really like to see this as I have a 17 and I doubt this is what your manual says as it is so different from mine.

I'm willing to learn though.

 

Ok, so I see what is going on. OP has swapped RON for Octane and has somehow gotten 3500 Mi. in his head as opposed to 5k Mi. for oil changes as the manual recommends instead of 10k for normal changes. It's page 570 for the octane and the maintenance manual has the special service recommendations.

No mention of a roof rack, but it does say cartop carrier. The 16 and 17 manual seems to be pretty much alike in these regards. I did not check for exact similarities, but it is what I go by and seems to be a match off the top of my head.






Anyways, carry on OP and hopefully you get it sorted. Not trying to bust any chops on this, just genuinely curious since the info varied from mine so much.