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Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Builds (2005-2015)' started by 81Trekker, Aug 25, 2019.

  1. Jan 3, 2022 at 11:04 AM
    Airdog

    Airdog did your Mom

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    We should get a community ECU to pass around for smog checks.
    Edit: well shit the VIN rules that out.
     
  2. Jan 3, 2022 at 1:38 PM
    tacotunner06

    tacotunner06 Well-Known Member

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    LS Swap with RSG Tranzilla, Custom hi clearance front bumper, Relentless: Slider's, bed rails, rear bumper, Prinsu with 40" BD s8. Dirt Designs 3.5 LT. Archive Garage rear towers/shackle flip/SUA. King Air bumps. King LT Coilovers in front. King 12x2.5 in rear. ARB rear air locker and twin compressor. SCS f5's with 33" Ridge Grapplers. 20" S8 mounted in bumper, squadron sport fog lights, squadron pro backup lights, LP6's bumper mounted.
    California and there absolute fuckin ridiculous rules..... even though Inslee is an idiot up here in washington they got rid of all emissions testing because our air quality was ahead of there goals to 2020.....henceforth swaps are soooooo much easier now....lol
     
  3. Jan 3, 2022 at 1:48 PM
    Arcticelf

    Arcticelf Well-Known Member

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    3rd gen? I've had to do that trick on a couple 2nd gen trucks with bent driveshafts.
     
  4. Jan 3, 2022 at 1:51 PM
    01 dhrracer

    01 dhrracer Well-Known Member

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    The air quality may be ahead of the goals. It was planned probably ten plus years ago to do away with testing do to cost vs benefit. The states point was that do to the emission controls on newer vehicles, the number of older vehicles that did not have these emissions controls was so low the cost to the state of managing emission testing was not creating a benefit to the state. The dollars that the individual paid for the test did not come close to covering the cost of the program. Hear in Cali (perhaps another negative) the cost for the test can very but averages close to $50 every two years. The state does not operate the test it is done by private operators. But I would not bank on some other form of testing not being instated. Or perhaps just more taxes being added to gas to promote the move towards more electric vehicles.
     
  5. Jan 3, 2022 at 5:15 PM
    906taco

    906taco Well-Known Member

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    Just get in with the car guys. They have special connections. Hand off some cash and you’ve passed. Used to be big into the import stuff myself and there is always talk of that going on.
     
  6. Jan 3, 2022 at 8:15 PM
    Evenflow

    Evenflow Well-Known Member

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    Yes
    It’s a lot more controlled out here and the enforcement is harsh, they pull shops licenses when they get caught.
     
    Airdog likes this.
  7. Jan 4, 2022 at 12:34 AM
    WormSquirts

    WormSquirts Armageddon

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    So, its a bit embarrassing as a guy who owns a shop coming here looking for help, but I've been hunting a clunk in my front end for the last 5-6 months now, and cannot find it. Wondering if you gentlemen might have any new ideas for me to look into. I've had myself, along with 3 other professional techs look at it on a lift, and we are all stumped.

    The clunk is in the front right side, and is most prominent when doing a left turn, but is also very noticeable over any bumps going straight. Haven't really felt it while turning right. On slower left turns I can also sometimes get a growling from the front right, almost like a wheel bearing. It feels like what a tie rod or ball joint would feel like. It honestly feels like the wheel is going to fall off. I haven't taken it off-road for 6 months because of this clunk. You can really feel it in your feet if you're in the passenger seat.

    So far I have tried the following:
    - checked for play in all the ways I know how in the wheel, control arms, spindles, cab mounts, core support mounts, engine mounts, rack, tie rods, wheel bearings, shock bearings, brakes, front diff mounts/bushings, tranny/tcase mounts.
    - Replaced wheel bearings (both sides)
    - Replaced steering rack with new Toyota rack, and added the slide rack and new heimed tie rods at the same time.
    - Completely took apart the front end and inspected all uniballs, EMF joints, spherical bearings and heims for play or wear. (disassembled the passenger side twice to double confirm)
    - Checked CV's, which feel fine.
    - I had some minor rub between the 934 CV and the LCA pivot kit on the passenger side, so I notched the tube under the 934 to make clearance.
    - New alignment
    - Rotated wheels
    - Tightened preload on the EMF joints
    - driven with and without the skid on
    - checked for obvious loose stuff under the hood

    Not sure what else it could be, but I'll probably take apart the passenger side again pretty soon here and see if I missed something somehow. I honestly hope it's something stupidly obvious. Whatever it takes to get my truck feeling solid again. I hate driving it currently, and all I can think about is what this clunk might be. I think I'm starting to really annoy my wife whenever we are driving together! If you rode in the truck, you would swear that you could jack up the front and wiggle the wheel and you would instantly see an inch of play somewhere, it's that bad.

    Appreciate any thoughts.
     
  8. Jan 4, 2022 at 3:21 AM
    906taco

    906taco Well-Known Member

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    If you’re on factory cab mounts I’d be willing to bet that’s what it is. Another thing to look at is motor mounts. But if you’re feeling it in your feet I’d take a real close look at the cab mount
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2022
    BassAckwards and EatSleepTacos like this.
  9. Jan 4, 2022 at 4:20 AM
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    Especially him being an 06. If they’re the original cab/engine mounts there’s a good chance they’re really worn out.
     
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  10. Jan 4, 2022 at 4:34 AM
    Dayman Karate

    Dayman Karate Ruffling feathers and turning eagles into vultures

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    https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/daymans-karate-class-but-you-wont-learn-nothin-4-link-lt-and-previous-iterations.755134/
    I’d check the cab mounts, too. I had a big clunk slow speed dropping into potholes or the like and my cab mount had come undone. Granted I had rotated the oval mount and tacked it in place not bolted, but after running a bead around 75% of it it no longer broke free haha
     
  11. Jan 4, 2022 at 6:05 AM
    99GC8

    99GC8 Well-Known Member

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    Does the grinding go away in 4wd? Possible needle bearing going out.
     
  12. Jan 4, 2022 at 6:40 AM
    Hawk373

    Hawk373 Well-Known Member

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    A set of chassis ears can help pinpoint noises very well.
     
  13. Jan 4, 2022 at 6:40 AM
    906taco

    906taco Well-Known Member

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    If he has an ARB up front he doesn't have a needle bearing.
     
    99GC8[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Jan 4, 2022 at 9:08 AM
    ovrlndkull

    ovrlndkull STUKASFK - HC4LIFE

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    Still have a bearing that the inner stub of the axle rides on the right side. The arb only gets rid of the DS needle bearing.
     
  15. Jan 4, 2022 at 9:08 AM
    WormSquirts

    WormSquirts Armageddon

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    I have the front cab mounts relocated with poly bushings. I did check them but they feel and look fine to me, with no play.

    Don't have a needle bearing.

    I did check the engine mounts, but it could be they are worn. That was definitely one of the things I thought it might be. I just checked it with a prybar to see how much play they had.
     
  16. Jan 4, 2022 at 9:10 AM
    WormSquirts

    WormSquirts Armageddon

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    In all my experience replacing needle bearings, I've never had one clunk like what I have. It feels more like a joint issue than a bearing. I did think maybe the wheel bearing, but I replaced both with no change
     
  17. Jan 4, 2022 at 9:15 AM
    racebug68

    racebug68 Well-Known Member

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    I can't leave anything well enough alone
    I have a random clunk that I am chasing as well, not as consistent as yours seems to be. Mine is limited to offroad traveling, bumps/potholes and general rough roads, a random clunk that isn't really directly tied to the compression or extension of a wheel... and to me sounds more on drivers side. I haven't pinpointed it yet, but thinking it may be the diff hitting the engine, something like the upper oil pan. Mine is '05, original engine mounts. if engine is sagging, and it doesn't necessarily move exactly lock/step with suspension, then it may be clunking on the diff? I think I recall someone having this same problem. May be something to investigate. Anyone know how to tell, or from what angle to check that would be able to see if there is evidence of hitting without having the truck on a lift? Front suspension is all new, JD LCA tab kit, new LCA/UCA, joints, rods, bearings, axles, etc. And I do have front ARB.
     
  18. Jan 4, 2022 at 9:18 AM
    906taco

    906taco Well-Known Member

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    FWIW, I also have a relocate with poly bushings. My DS had a clunk not long ago, tightened the bushing up and clunk is gone. I think it settled in a little bit and created the issue.
     
  19. Jan 4, 2022 at 9:22 AM
    WormSquirts

    WormSquirts Armageddon

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    It was one of my first thoughts as well so I did the same. Unfortunately didn't help.

    This weekend I'm going to try everything again though. Maybe it needs another quarter turn? :annoyed:

    Gunna order new engine mounts and change those out. Can't hurt on a well driven 06 like you guys said.
     
    EatSleepTacos likes this.
  20. Jan 4, 2022 at 9:23 AM
    906taco

    906taco Well-Known Member

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    Have you looked at the diff support bushings?
     

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