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OEM inverter

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by 05RedTaco, Jan 20, 2011.

  1. Jan 20, 2011 at 10:12 AM
    #1
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    I have base 08 Taco. I might be able to get my hands on the complete OEM inverter system (inverter, all wires, bed plug, switch, etc...) Now my question is if anyone can provide a pic of where the inverter is mounted stock and also how the wires run.

    My plan is to be able to use the inverter when I am on job site with no power to charge battery for my cordless tools, power up power tools and maybe even run my 75' General Speedrooter plumbing snake.... The snake has 1/2HP GE electric motor, which per the label should only draw 115Volts at 50-60hz... Now the max power the inverter puts out is 400W which should be 115V... Correct me if I am wrong...LOL But this should suit my needs.

    I'd appreciate any input as to how are you guys happy with the inverter and if its worth it.

    I would prefer OEM look instead of going aftermarket...
     
  2. Jan 30, 2011 at 4:52 PM
    #2
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    Alright. I got the OEM inverter. And I will need some help with it. Just to understand what to connect where. The inverter came with almost everything needed in order to make it work. Here is a picture of it.

    CIMG3649_51f2a1871bf1a0050ecba6367c642206fe227698.jpg

    This will be going to 5lug base Taco which is not pre wired for the inverter. I need to figure out the wiring from the small plug to the switch.

    [​IMG]

    The plug has 7 wires

    - blue - to switch and T's to wire from relay from Engine bay
    - green/black - goes directly to the 115V switch
    - black/white - goes to ECM?
    - blue/black - goes to clutch switch for cruise control
    - purple - don't need to use its for A/T cars
    - red - goes directly to the 115V switch
    - purple/white - speed sensor goes to combination meter

    Only three wires go directly to the switch from plug shown. There are two remaining wires on the switch which go to;

    - light green - ignition wire
    - light green/black - relay in the engine bay

    I was going off these two diagrams from FSM;

    Inverter_ebda1897210c1fafd3808ec8f067f17bdce0a697.jpg

    Iverter2_19cf58eca065e61ec173247b0b3ffcb6cffd01b9.jpg

    Now this shouldn't be terribly difficult. All I will need is going to be;

    - automotive relay
    - wire

    I know how to solder and I am pretty good at it...

    Now I am pretty new to reading diagrams, more I stare at these the more clear they seem to me.

    What I don't understand is the "junction" above the switch pictured in the diagram. It seems like the wires below are connected together in the junction box?

    11 from switch to junction box
    13 ignition to junction box
    14 junction box to cruise control clutch switch
    5 switch to junction box
    10 junction box to relay in engine bay

    Am I right do all those wires just connect together in the junction box??

    Where is the 'combination meter" located?

    Also the black/white wire is marked OUT and goes to ECM. Is this just an output telling the ECM that the inverter is ON? Maybe for a dash light? Do you guys get light on your dash which lights up when the inverter is on? I don't think I need to connect that wire... Thoughts?

    Now the last thing. The pins are NOT marked on the switch pictured below;

    CIMG3650_19db8e8edb5e1f08960d2ce502bb11c59db38d5d.jpg

    Would anyone be so kind to pull their switch out and snap a picture of the plug going to the switch so i can figure out which color wire goes to which pin?

    I would appreciate any input on this. Help me make this a successful project :eek:
     
  3. Jan 30, 2011 at 4:55 PM
    #3
    paintdiddy

    paintdiddy Machine gun shits

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    I think the inverter is mounted under the center console.I tried to hook up a2.5 gallon pancake compressor and my inverter couldn't handle it.
     
  4. Jan 30, 2011 at 4:57 PM
    #4
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    Yeah i know where the inverter itself is mounted.... I will have to find alternative location, because I have bench seat and no center console.

    If this thing can power up battery charger for my cordless tools I am happy camper :eek:
     
  5. Jan 30, 2011 at 5:14 PM
    #5
    olgzr

    olgzr Well-Known Member

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    115V and 400 Watts is about 3 and 1/2 amps. If those items you want to power draw less than that, you should be good.
     
  6. Jan 30, 2011 at 5:19 PM
    #6
    DirtyDawg

    DirtyDawg Well-Known Member

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    P=VI. Power=Voltage x Amperage.
    400W=115V x Amperage. Solve for Amperage.
    Max Amps is 3.47 Amps.

    Late to the Post!!
     
  7. Jan 31, 2011 at 8:56 AM
    #7
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    Bump see 2nd post of this thread... Any input??
     
  8. Jan 31, 2011 at 9:05 AM
    #8
    Bocephus

    Bocephus Member

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    Mount it behind your seat.
     
  9. Jan 31, 2011 at 9:10 AM
    #9
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    I will try to mount it inside the dash somewhere or under the passenger seat. Behind the seat it won't work, because I have all my tools there...
     
  10. Jan 31, 2011 at 9:40 AM
    #10
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    I bow to you sir for greatly informative post!

    I see what you are saying about the interlocks, I will think about it!

    So if I understand this correctly unless I hook up interlocks the inverter will always be 400W, correct?

    Now if I don't do the relay and only do 100A fusible link or fuse, won't that drain my battery when the truck is turned off?

    Now once i found out which terminals in the switch are to turn the inverter on, the P/T wire from the inverter will go to the switch and also a wire from the ignition to supply power to the switch once the key is in "ON" position, that way i shouldn't be able to turn the inverter ON when the key is not in "ON" position, correct?
     
  11. Jan 31, 2011 at 10:15 AM
    #11
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    Yeah the 100W is kind of pointless, wonder why Toyota did that... I will try this out as soon as possible...LOL Maybe Today and chime in.

    I want to hook the lights on the button just so i know when the inverter is ON. It should be easy once I figure out which two pins are for ignition wire and to the inverter, i can just take red wire from inverter and touch button pins to see when the button lights up...
     
  12. Jan 31, 2011 at 2:49 PM
    #12
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    So I went out and hooked the inverter to the battery. I hooked up the power wire (+B) to positive battery terminal and grounded (PGND), plugged in the inverter and it powered right up and started charging the battery for my cordless drill.

    CIMG3658_57cc9580ed3dcdb1e38cf845a76c673e8ba8a3ad.jpg

    Now that makes me think... Since i didnt have to switch it on or off, would that mean that once the inverter gets power, its automatically on? That would mean if i dont use relay that the inverter would drain my battery, correct? According to the diagram from FSM the inverter doesn't get power from battery unless the ignition is switched to "ON"...

    I also opened the switch up;

    CIMG3656_7fbe54d09a678183eddcadd9e5eacbd5a813e4fa.jpg

    Now I can clearly see which wires go where... Two middle prongs are for (P/W) wire and for ignition wire.

    I have a feeling that the RED 400W wire has to be hooked up as well in order for the inverter to put out 400W.

    I ran the main wiring harness and installed the outlet in the bed :) Once I buy some thicker gauge wire and fuse, I will hook it all up and see if it works as desired...
     
    44357 likes this.
  13. Feb 1, 2011 at 6:25 AM
    #13
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    I want to use OEM switch so, I will be going the relay route. Would this relay handle it? It is 12VDC 40Amp relay LINK ---> http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3020762&CAWELAID=145898269#

    If I use a relay would it be smart to put a fuse on the +B wire going to the inverter from the battery?
     
  14. Feb 1, 2011 at 6:51 AM
    #14
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    That's what I thought... I will look for stronger relay.. The stock relay should be located in the relay/fuse box right behind the battery...
     
  15. Feb 1, 2011 at 7:01 AM
    #15
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    That would be awesome!!
     
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  16. Feb 1, 2011 at 9:40 PM
    #16
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    No worries man. Whenever its nicer outside... I am in no rush... I might attempt the install on Sat the 12th if I don't have to work so that's pretty far away...
     
  17. Feb 9, 2011 at 6:05 PM
    #17
    JLink

    JLink Well-Known Member

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    Lifted, Locked, Armored. Ready To Wheel.
    Anyone else dissapointed with their oem inverter? I bought my trucking thinking "wow this is awesome, I can plug in my circular saw or whatever and be able to use them right on the tailgate..
    So far I've tried a vacuum to clean the truck with, and it couldnt handle it. A heat gun to heat up the window to apply some decals, and it couldnt handle it.
    I think the only thing I have had any luck with is a small boom box.

    Is there something wrong with mine or do they just suck? I also have a 400w inverter in my cab and it cant power these things either so I'm guessing they just draw more power than my inverters are capable of. Anyone know of anybody that has upgraded the oem inverter to make the bed outlet more substantial?
     
  18. Feb 9, 2011 at 6:08 PM
    #18
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is going full "SANDWICH" Moderator

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    Some stuff. Not a lot, just some.
    400W = 3.2 AMPs

    They don't suck, they just weren't designed for the application you are trying to use them for.

    A 2000W generator is about 16 Amps.
     
  19. Feb 10, 2011 at 7:34 AM
    #19
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco [OP] Nom Nom Nom

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    All I need the inverter for is to run battery charger for my cordless tools and small boombox...
     
  20. Oct 11, 2022 at 1:12 PM
    #20
    CAtacoWaves

    CAtacoWaves Active Member

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    Rhino Rack Gutter Channels & Rack, Thule Bed Rack (old model mod), Bed Platform,[Switches: Stereo Brightness, NAV Bypass, White Noise Backup Alarm], Interior AC plugs w/400W anytime, Gate King, Bed & Underhood Lights, SPIKER Eng Hood Struts, MICTUNING Tailgate Light Bar, Blinker Genie 2 Mod for side mirrors and side markers. CBI 0deg Rock Rails, Riccochet Al Full Skids, Bed Divider Rear Window Block, Rostra Front Rock Crawl Camera, Rostra Front/Rear Dashcams, [Alarm Upgrades: Glass Break Sensor, and Tilt Sensor, Shock Sensor, Tailgate Sensor with off switches]. Snail Armor Tailgate Insert. Pop&Lock Tailgate Lock. SaBellCo Tailgate Security Lock. Wheeler's OR 1.5" Prog Add-a-leaf with stock Overload spring. TIMBREN Active OR Rear Bump Stops. FOB free key. HitchSafe. TUFFY Lock Boxes in Center Console & Rear Seat. Toyota Wheel and Spare Tire Locks. In progress: Bilstein 5100s & OME 886 coils, Durobumps Front Bumpstops, CBI hidden front hitch, Hitch mounted winch with front and rear wiring, Eco Gapshield, War Fab Inc Sheridan Hitch Skid, Battery Upgrade. Make me stop...
    What was the final verdict for the wiring of the "black/white wire is marked OUT and goes to ECM"? Did you leave this dead ended and everything worked? I'm about to wire this up on a 2006 and have it all mapped out, except this wire. Thanks!

     
    Last edited: Oct 11, 2022

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