Alabama thread!

That's so badass.

 

How much you want for that buggy????

 

I built a cage inside it

 

Not done yet but close, it is finished enough to go ride.
It isn't too bad just a lot of measuring and calculating.

 

Lol, I wouldn't even know where to start to price it.

 

I’m crunching the numbers for a double triangulated 4-link. Once I drop the gas tank I’ll have a more clear picture of how inboard I can go with the lowers on the frame end. Not sure a double will work.

 

are you changing out the axle?

 

I was about to say go read this guys thread but looks like you already have https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/robertocritser-lt-4-link-and-37s-build.342018/page-65.

Me and @TRD Tyler road in his truggy at AOP. Its pretty sweet setup. Just hope you know how expensive the swap is.

 

Sticking with this axle and making a truss. Price isn’t that bad actually. Not much more than what I have in it now minus the tube bed. It’ll be less expensive than what I have in the front by a long shot haha

 

If your going to the trouble of changing the entire suspension i assume it to get more travel to run harder trails? The stock 8ich is weak and even with truss should probably be changed out. ask @ovrlndkull. If i was doing a 4 link id change the axle at the sesame time.

 

That’s a big jump in price for something that’s not giving me issues yet, so I don’t see the point in doing it now. If it breaks I’ll address it then, but not any sooner

 

Just trying to save you a bad day bud. Like skip had that day at chocc. Especially since your on big tires and if you go up to 37 its a matter of when and not if tbh. Just the terrain here in the south is brutal.

 

No worries. That’s another reason for the tow pig! Break it and trailer it back haha

 

I think I’m getting the new tundra sometime next year if I can get it for close to Msrp somewhere, I’ll probably buy a trailer for my taco after that

 

So you don't need to go super inboard with the lower links. Here's a few quick and dirty rules of thumb for you.

1) Keep the link combined angles to at least 60* to keep the axle from needing a panhard
2) Keep the upper and lower link angles as close to the same as you can (this eliminates flex steer)
4) the closer the links are to the same length the less or 0 change in pinion angle in the link range of motion
5) link separation needs to be ~20% of the tire height at the axle. (keep that in mind in regards to upper link clearance and then how low you want the lowers hanging.
6) make them as long as you possibly can this smooths them out and lessons the reaction into the cab over bumps
7) try and keep the upper PP and the lower at ~5* angle up (this is for antisquat)

There are some good free online calculators. I've already been working on doing front and rear for the Heep.

 

What angle do you mean in number 1? 6 and 2 will be dependent on each other for sure. Not much room to go forward with the uppers. Will likely only get to the crossmember that’s notched for the driveshaft. Will be a balancing act of going longer with the bottoms until something else suffers from the uppers being shorter. I don’t foresee needing longer than 4’ links, do you?

 

Here's a pic to explain for #1. The angle is taken from PP looking from above. These are exaggerated and just basic ballpark what they would look like. You can have anything really in between and the angles aren't definitive. The optimum is what #1, 2 are really referencing.

As far as that x-member I'd look at going single piece and then reworking that X-member. If you go longer than the DS from u-joint to u-joint that could potentially cause some issues with binding and too much flex for the DS to handle. Most comp bouncers, crawlers, regular buggies, etc try and put the pivots at the front front U-joint. reality if you make your links that long they'll be a pretty good length

 

Is this to scale?

 

Always or at least my scale

 

Pictures do a world of good. I’m going to pull everything out this weekend and see what I’m working with. Was wondering if they should extend to the carrier bearing but that’s so far up the uppers would probably be in the cab haha