Sub recommendation/advice needed

Yeah, I've heard a few of these in different setups and they just made me grin. Gonna use an HD750/1 with this one @ 8 ohms.

 

Wish I had DC room. Gotta get creative with an AC.

 

Mine's an AC. Just gotta take out the rear seats

 

Mine just made it. Just. Seats still function along with the belts & compartments. Still might ditch the seats.

 

How was the dual JLs?? Looking at that same setup but cant find a lot of reviews on them in a tacoma

 

It was decent. Had them each in their own .67cu ft premade enclosure. It did hit, shook the rear view mirror and a little bump in the seat as well. If you’re not a raving bass head that happens to like accuracy , it will serve you well for a long time.

 

Thinking about picking this up from a fellow tw member. I dont know much about enclosures does this look like a solid setup? i listen to rap and like big heavy bass. Thanks in advance

 

Looks exactly like what I had, except my box was MDF. Is that a Mr.Marv box? Lastly, make sure you get a 2ohm stable amp that makes at least as much power as you want. I’d go with at least 1200w total. You can turn down an amp easier than re-cone/replace a sub.

 

i dont know if its a mr marv box, the seller said he got it from a friend. Im hoping it is tho as ive heard nothing but good things. Im still figuring everything out amp wise im still pretty new to the audio thing. Should i be looking for a mono or a 2 channel? If im planning on upgrading all the speakers and the stereo should i just get one with as many channels as i can? Im hoping to keep everything the same brand.

 

Depends if the power meets what you need. I always liked separate sun amps but some multi channel are solid. Most 2 channel can be bridged into single.

 

Agree with @nudavinci64 . What you want to do is decide on what wattage you want to feed the subs, each. Add that together, that’s the power you’re shooting for. Then, look for a bridgeable 2ch or mono amp that has at least that output @2ohms. Those JLs are rated to 500w, but can carefully take more. As such, I fed mine 600w each, just be careful of distortion. So an amp that is minimum 1000w up to that Rockford one I suggested when the subs are wired to 2ohms would work well. More power output on the amp means more flexibility. The other option you asked about, I think, is a 5ch amp. Great for a mild system, but if you plan on continuing to upgrade in the future, it can be limiting. Most 5ch I’ve seen lately are in the 100x4 and 500x1 variety. That would work for you if you don’t plan on changing things too much. But for ease of install, a single amp is easier to wire than 2.

 

Yup. It takes a little doing with my Regular Cab

 

Thanks for the replies guys. Forgot to mention the guy is selling me two subs both at 4 ohms if that changes anything. I was looking at the JL JD500/1 would that be fine? Or would it be better to fork over the extra cash for the JD1000/1? Could i still stick to a mono to power both subs or should i start looking at a 2 channel? Im guessing getting a 5 and above would be kind of limiting because it would be better to get a separate amp for the speakers but i could be wrong. Sorry for all the questions this is my first build

 

Each 10W3 is a single VC and 4 ohms capable of up to 500 watts RMS. To get the most out of them, I would push at least 400 watts up to 500 watts each. You could go slightly over, but 4-500watts will give you some solid bass. Since they are 4ohm, you can run them in parallel (both + and - wires together to the amp) in mono, running the subs combined at 2 ohms. Look for amps that will put 800-1000 watts RMS. The JD1000/1 would be solid as it's rated at 1000 RMS @ 2 ohms. The other option is running 2 amps 4-500 RMS each mono or getting an amp running 2 way, but the best bang would be to run parallel at 2ohm on a single amp. It was my setup. Cheaper to buy a big mono too. Buying 2 lower mono's will be more, and getting 2 amps pushing 2 channels at 400 watts is hard to find or $$$. JL wise mono 1000 watts RMS and call it a day.

 

Let’s see if I can answer those.

Like @nudavinci64 said, the JL JD1000/1 would be better for your desire to “hear and feel” the bass. You would be feeding 500w to each sub with that, instead of only 250w each with the JD500/1.

Again, as mentioned, wire them in parallel. Each sub is connected to the amp individually, +to+ and -to- of the amp, making them 2ohms, to maximize the output of the JD1000/1.

Lastly, most 5 channel amps are lower power on the sub channel than a separate mono amp for subs. Most I’ve seen are 500-600w for subs, which is half the power of the JD1000/1. You could run a 5 channel, there’s nothing stopping you. But it would limit you to 250-300w per sub. I think we’re suggesting not to, simply because you want to “feel” the music. Only way to do that is either a vented box, or more power in an amplifier. Simply put, a sealed box is more accurate, a vented box is louder. I’m guessing you don’t have a ton of box building experience, or the tools needed to do so, or you wouldn’t be looking at premade boxes. Most premade vented boxes I’ve seen are lower quality. That box and subs you’re looking at seem very well built. I’ve had that setup, and it’s very nice when amped properly. The JL1000/1 would do the job.

I hope I didn’t stir up the puddle and make it worse for you. Any questions, ask.

 

I have a Fosgate

$300 Rockford Fosgate Punch P300-10T Single 10" 300-Watt Amplified Truck Sealed Box Subwoofer - Black

P300-10T powered sub and its loud enough for me. It will shake the truck, but not ground pounding. You will mostly hear it inside the truck which is fine by me.

I recently bought a Taco Tunes box and installed all of the components into the new box, so it only uses the driver’s side passenger cubby, so I can use the bigger cubby.

 

So im pretty sure im gonna get the JL audio JD1000/1 to pair with the dual w3's. I was thinking of using c1 components for the doors, would the JL audio xd600/6v2 pair well? I read on a Crutchfield article that the speakers wattage (60) should be equal or higher than the RMS wattage of the amp per channel (75) but I entered that I would be getting an aftermarket amp rated 50-75 RMS on the website and it still recommended those speakers.

On another note, im really leaning towards buying the used subs. Is this generally a good idea? Anything I should look for in particular? The seller doesn't have any way to test the subs as he never got through to installing them. Thanks again for the help guys.

 

First, the XD600/6v2 is the wrong amp. It’s for when someone wants a 3-way active setup with a woofer/mid/tweeter up front. WAY overkill for your desired use. Your looking for a 2 or 4 channel amp that puts out around 100w per side. Yes, that’s more than the components you mentioned, but you can always dial back an amp to the desired wattage, you can’t make a speaker take more than it was designed for for extended periods. The XD200/2 or 400/4(if you amp the rears) might be better for you.

Second, I’ve purchased used subs before. Two things to look for. One, put the tips of your fingers and thumb around the dust cap. Gently push in about a half inch, then slowly come back up. If there’s any scratching noises, or you feel some scraping, it’s blown. Should be smooth in and out, no noises. Second, inspect the surround. Look for holes/tears/ separation from the cone.

Hope that helps.

 

So these are the pictures i got when i requested some close ups. Should i be worried about the scuff marks? Kinda worried that i have to drive 2 hours to pick em up and i still wouldnt be able to test them for a couple months. Seller said he would refund the money if it doesnt work but idk if i can hold him to it when i get to installing it in a few months. Still, 350 for two subs and a box seem like a pretty good deal to me. As far as the amp, shouldnt i need a 6 channel since i want to amp the back speakers too? Sorry for all the noob questions

 

Tinsel leads look good, no kinks or breaks. Marks on the speaker lugs base, I personally don’t see anything wrong. But it’s not my money. $350 is a great deal, that’s what has me wondering. The box alone, new, is around $200. The subs, they’re around $300 a piece, new. I didn’t know the price before, but if they work, I’d say you stole them.

The amp, you need a 4 channel. Components have a crossover, which splits the signal to highs and lows. Only 1 amp channel per set. 4 doors=4 channel.