It got real...Baxter adapter, spin-on filter, oil change.

It’s 0.6 quarts more than stock.

 

Why the bigger filter? Actually, I didn’t see the recommendation from the Baxter site. The way I chose the filter was from perusing all of the filter dimensional data. I started with isolating for the thread size. Next for diameter and height and simply selected the largest filter I could fit. My assumption is going bigger is better than smaller- that’s it.

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone. Wishing you all a happy, healthy and safe holiday season

 

I just found the part number to one for a 2nd gen with at 4.0 V6.

 

If anyone is going to install this Baxter remote I think I still have a couple of fuel line spacer clamps left-over that I’d be happy to donate to your build. They keep the lines well-dressed and restrained from flopping around. Here’s a pic of what they are.

 

Love the idea of this relocation kit.

 

What oil do you use? Group III synthetics can be run for 10K miles, Group IV even longer.

 

Any concerns with doubling on the pressure relief valves? One in the engine, another in the filter.

 

I just put my adapter and Fumoto valve on today.

 

I’ll take them if you still have them

 

You got it. PM me shipping address and I’ll send them out on Monday.

 

That Fram filter tho...

 

Yeah yeah, I know.

 

Currently doing this now and I notice that the baxter spin on has threads inside but the filter housing on the Tacoma does not. Doesn't seem like an issue and I'll post some pics when done. Ripped my gloves so now I'm letting my hands dry before getting new ones on. Also thawing my frozen chicken legs out for a second

 

The Baxter simply replaces the plastic filter element housing. Threads in the same way. Might you have pics?

 

Which one did you get?

 

Yep. Got it done. I was referring to the threads inside on the TS-501-BK. I didn't take pics. It's the part that moves up and down to sit flush inside. The bare metal portion. Wouldn't make much sense if it had threads on that portion and the bottom half too. But all sits well and sealed. No oil pressure issues.



Only thing I might change is the Fumoto valve. There is about an inch of clearance from the skid plate and I think the angled ones would give me just a bit more. Looks worse in the pic than it actually is. Gonna run with it for now. Hardest and most inconvenient part about this? Removing the skid plate. Toyota TRD one is on the way. Well, to be fair, it was removing that stock plastic filter housing. I didn't have the "proper" tool so I used my filter wrench. Didn't damage anything and just took patience. Glad I won't be reusing it. Maybe during summer I will get the relocation mod, but I'm happy for now. The spin on mod was just that much cheaper and the deciding factor for me in all this. Aside from the freezing temps, all went well. But the fumoto valve does worry me a bit on this truck. I've never had it so close before. Tons of road debris where I live. I don't rock crawl and most trails I frequent are maintained by the state, but there are occasional ones that get a little crappy. We'll see how much more clearance the angled one gives me.

 

I initially got the adjustable one and replaced it with the short nipple. Long nipple doesn’t serve any useful purpose. If you are going to use a tube to direct your oil into a container I’d go with authentic short nipple. If you are going to drain into an oil pan the no nipple would be even better.

the adjustable/angled one doesn’t direct the flow in such a way that makes it easy. You will likely get oil on top of your skid plate or have difficulty putting a tube on the nipple.

 

Yea I had the F133 on my previous vehicle and totally forgot to take it off when trading in. Not sure why I decided to go with the long nipple one this time. So I'll get the F133 and replace it next oil change. I did change VERY early this time, only has 2700 on it, and the oil looked great. Coming from a Subaru where they tried to recommend the same 10k interval I was never sold. Car ran like crap after 3k. So when this valve gets here I'll get under there and hopefully not lose too much in the swap out. I do have the tubing though, so I never use just the valve. Thanks for your help.

Edit, oops I misread. I'll be getting the

$38 F133S with LC-10 S-Series Large Body FUMOTO® Valve with Short Nipple and LC-10 Lever Clip for 12mm-1.25

F133S. That is the one I had previously on my Subaru.

 

As many of you know, I periodically drain my oil and filter it through a bench setup 2 micron filter Soooooooooo draining your oil directly into a container will allow you to easily drain it all out and put it back in after the valve swap. Easy peasy.

FYI, I also have an outback and the valves are different, a 108 vs 133, so don’t fret about not removing it before sale.

 

If you're getting a TRD Pro skid plate, you'll be fine with what you have.