Wyoming B.S. Thread

On 31s, with 4.10 gears, my RPMs in 5th gear @ real70mph were 2500 RPM or so. Maybe a tad higher. I'm right around 3000 now with 33s, and 4.88s.

 

wow. Okay then.

I remember Frank being around 2750 for 70mph. But almost 3k is a bit nuts.

 

Here's 32s so your numbers seem in spec, would expect a lower speed for the same rpms with your smaller tires. This was circa 2018 on my truck.

 

so your actual speed in the photo is 70mph?

 

I don't think you comprehended what I wrote. A double cab has a shit transmission, still small interior and less bed space. There's no appeal at all.

And very good at producing heat. I'm glad I owned one because I was able to understand the struggles mike has gone through, and the sympathy is warranted.

 

32s on 4.10s make the speedo 100% accurate to gos readings. So no, the actual speed there is 84mph, plus you are rounding the wrong direction.

 

That's literally what I told monte, but he insisted I still wanted one. I don't at all get the double cab appeal.

 

yeah i thought so too. Then I used one and the interior is awesome and bed is better.

Tranny def still sucks ass though.

Wow okay. So this is looking more like my gearing is not 4.10s then.

 

This is very likely on a SX actually

 

I found that my speedo was dead-on with 4.10s, 30 tooth speedo gear, and 255/85R16 KM2s (albeit slightly used from Dan @drr). Of course, we all know that "32s" or "33s" are just suggestions. Not sure of the real world sizing differences between the KM2s and KO2s that Ben was running.

 

I hadn't ever heard that.

My door code is for 4.10s though. So unless someone did an aftermarket swap or my Speedo is just fuckin loco.

 

Door codes have been known to be wrong on pre 98 trucks anyway.

 

Thats fair. I'll have to jack it up tomorrow and do a rough spin the wheel and count test I guess. But be hard to tell 4.30 from 4.10.

 

I mark the pinion area in 10ths and put a mark on the dust shield all with chalk, makes it easier to tell them apart

 

ah cool. If its not too cold tomorrow I can try that.

 

You like the dcsb because it ran and drive that makes it easy to justify it.

What did you do with the speedo cable?

Unfortunately with tires I stay away from specifics as there's a ton of variability in the notes size, and actual size and variation among manufacturers and tire wear. So the general statement of 32s correct the stock speedo on stock gears is the game I'll play. This was true waaaay back when I had 235/85/16 on the green truck. Not sure what the error would be with 33s. With my current setup of 35s the error is about 10% which makes it easy mental math.

 

I replaced it. It was broken, had been since I bought the truck. Common for them to break at a certain age/ miles.

 

So yesterday I had my Rabbit in to the dealership for a recall (ABS module) for what was supposed to be a 3hr job. Got a call where they vaguely described the car as currently disabled and they need to order parts and so it'll be a while until it's ready. Aka they broke something doing the repair work not a big deal it's all on their dime.

But that means green truck is back on point duty. It's got some fun electrical gremlins, the usual suspects. Turn key and nothing, as in, no elect ic power to anything. Try again, and sometimes it wakes up and fires up, sometimes it takes a few seconds of holding the key in start for electrical power to make itself known. Pretty obvious my lead acid batteries and years of corrosion are taking its toll. Battery and terminal connections are easy enough but are their replacement batter cables to buy? I know that corrosion has leached into the main cable on the hot side of the battery but I would replace both. Otherwise I'll keep doing this annual terminal replacement and water + baking soda bandaid shit.

Good news the new wideband O2 sensor went in easy (had to remove the cat) and it works!

And since this post is already long winded, I watched a man wash his third gen using the windshield brush at the gas station as I filled up the Mercedes last night. Quite amusing.

 

saw that on IG. I've felt like I've done that when its been muddy out and the windsheild is awful. but what the hell? That was extreme..


Do you have a hydraulic crimper? If not, I'd get one and make your own cables with all new wire. Some nice welding wire would be good. You can just use 4ga for that stuff but can always up it which is nice to do to 2ga. Just need to do a wire off the alt to the battery, then a wire to the starter. Big ground to the frame, one to body, and one to engine is always good too. The fuse box can then can use a 4ga to run into the box, 2ga won't fit I think.

And of course can get nice new terminals with nice screw lugs if you want to really go all out.

I just did all of that on my little red truck. I love wiring, so fun and nice when done well. I have parts lists of what I used I can get later if you want.

Crimp connections, then use some nice heat shrink. SHould take only a saturday afternoon to do.



Also just curious, have you just tried pressing the clutch cancel button? It doesn't sound like your issue is turning over the engine or getting the starter to fire, but more like all electric power isn't turning on though so might not be it, i know my clutch switch on the pedal is bad so I use the cancel button a lot. You could also check and look at the ignition switch to make sure thats okay, it could be dirty or bad and not registering the key turning.

 

I don't have a crimper and not interested in a "one time" tool. I have plenty of those in the garage that's starting to get cramped. You wanna make me a set?

I'm not sure the clutch start would do what I'm expecting. I use it a lot myself but I'm talking like complete electrical fail, no lights, no bing with the key in, no dash lights, no door locks. Dead dead. Radio reset and all. So it's barely getting enough pixies through the wires/connections to work. Hmm.