How to: DIY Wedge Camper

yeah I got them too and by the time I welded up the rest it was pretty obvious it wasn't going to flex at all without them. I have a short bed tho so long beds may be different. Be careful with your struts take your time locating them. I was sloppy locating them and cut it really close with the compressed limit of the struts

 

Did it eliminate the water going into the frame as well?

 

I also called them today. I’m waiting on a quote for 3 15’ strips. PSA their cutting table is 25’ so anyone wanting longer strips, sorry. I wonder how many requests they got yesterday for 30’ of 1.75” of a material thanks to @Pj40 lol.

Did he get back to you with a lead time?

 

I didn't ask for a lead time

 

I have a long bed and didn’t use gussets. Seems structurally fine.

Nice my camper is just at 24.8’ total length as I made mine a little shorter haha.

 

Has anyone installed a fan on top? Wondering how it fits given the panel is only 6mm

 

I've been looking at some for quite a while now. Had contemplated the weight on the panel etc. Ultimately decided I'd gusset it if need be

 

actually yes, i had one bolt that water found its way into before hand and after install i haven't had any water in any aspect. Seems like such a silly fix but it works perfect! If i was more patient i would get the longer precut stuff from discountrubberdirect but i wanted it to be dry haha

 

@nanserb hey I was just wondering, what lift struts did you use for the access hatch to the tent portion. length and pounds. I'm thinking about adding this feature. thanks

 

I used these:

$15 Apexstone 100N/22.5lb Gas Struts 10" Gas Struts Lift Supports Gas Spring Lid Support Gas Props/Shocks, Set of 4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AHHCHBK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

$14 ARANA 10MM Ball Stud Mounting Bracket for Universal Gas Struts Lift Supports Shocks Spring Prop Mounts Brackets Silver 4PCS with 16 Screws (Only Fits 10mm Ball Head)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MWLPYD8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

 

I installed a Maxxxfan Deluxe back in September and was very glad I did. I didn't run into any issues, if you don't care about having a small gap, just use a simple plastic spacers around the screw rather having to use an aluminum or wood frame for spacing the trim piece.

 

For those out there in the planning phase, I stumbled across this last night. Would be very cool to integrate the double pop into a build, pretty jealous of this tent. If I built one over from scratch it would probably copy this guys tent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Efw_N6oOzkc

 

@nanserb right on! Thanks

 

I personally dont really see too much of an advantage in this one. I feel like I already have enough space in the normal wedge camper to feel really comfortable.
But here are some disadvantages I see in this design.

- More expensive
- More things which can brake
- The build takes longer
- More possibilities for water to enter
- less sturdy especially with high winds, already dont trust my camper fully when there are strong winds
- Putting up but especially taking down takes longer
- the front part over the cab cant be fully used without extra support under the floor
- can the roof be used to carry heavier load!?
.
.
.
.

 

@davzx one more question for you - How did you mount the slide latch to the space frame? Just self tapping screws?

 

As some one who built a full pop top, i would do it all over again and still do a full pop top. yes its more material, which means more expensive. yes its more complicated and does take longer. How ever i think its much easier to seal up then what has been shown thus far in this thread.

 

Yeah exactly, just self-tapping screws into the spaceframe. I've had the camper on my truck for a few months now, and I've had no issues with the rear latch popping open. I'm really happy with them, but I wish I was more accurate with my cutouts for the southco latches, because they could grab the slide latches a bit more securely.

And to answer your earlier question about the gusset welds - same as nanserb said. They weren't really a necessity, and the welds on one side were sufficient. I used 3/16" plate for those, and I aligned them flush with the inside face of the spaceframe tubing, so they didn't interfere with the struts and stiffeners. They add some nice lash points for cargo nets, straps, etc.

 

@Pj40 any reason to go with 1.75" instead of 1.5" wide strips?

 

Sheeted the front (cab side). Window arrived today, so I’ll cut that out and prep for install.

 

Hey All,

Man, this thread is amazing, THANK YOU!

I am looking to build my own Wedge Camper but am going to have to make some modifications and thought I would share my thoughts and mission profile.

This is going to be a solo camper rig and I want to keep my setup and gear as simple as possible. I went through many iterations of bed rack, RTT, Cap with RTT, Anex options, awnings etc... I am sure you know the drill.

I think this setup with a kitchen box built into the hatch on one side and a fairly clear bed on the other are what I have settled on.

Now to the unusual stuff.

I have a Gladiator. This means the bed is short and wide. I also have a 7' garage door and my solution has to be able to fit in the garage. This means I wanted to come up with a way to keep the cap the same height as the cab. So... Here is what I have so far. It folds open similar to many hard shell RTT, like the iKamper Skycamp. I built a mockup out of wood and it seems to work so far. Going to make some more tweeks this weekend and will start cutting next week. Oh, also going to build out of steel tubing instead of 80/20. The calcs show it will be about 12lbs heavier but WAY cheaper and available now.

Inside will be 53" wide at the narrowest part and 89.5" long as drawn. 42" from floor of tent to peak of upper panel. 24" high at the bow over the head space. I am also going to have 12" fixed floor, then a 24" hinged piece that will flip up and latch to the roof panel for space when not sleeping. The access hatch is shown split but that is still being designed.

Feedback?







And some of the other CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) Testing the angled sides vs straight.