Let's see your hydraulic bump stops

Unless I get add spindle

 

Exactly, this.

 

But the add diff and manual diff are different would it still work.

 

The only thing that is different is the jackshaft or "tube" half of the diff that bolts onto the passenger side. You don't need to change any of that if you don't mind your CV's spinning while 4x4 is disengaged.

 

Does it really matter lol they say mpg changes but I don’t think so

 

No, people have confirmed it doesn’t make any appreciable decrease. You could test what it would be like with keeping your hubs locked and confirm for yourself.

 

I only have hydraulic bump stops on my rear end and I don't really have a problem bottoming my front out.

 

Nice. You could put a spacer on those bumps to keep them to 2" stroke and have an easier time tuning since there's only about 2 inches before you hit them. What leaf springs you running?

 

I know they are Deaver and I believe they are 62 or 65" length.

 

62" - F67's probably since they're maybe sagging a little and they look a little closer to your frame at ride height than they should - not too much, but a little. Did you recently buy your truck? Got more pictures?

 

x2

 

Thanks... no, I've owned the truck since late 2004 and did the rear long travel maybe around 2010? I feel like I've replaced the leaf pack at least once since originally having the 62" but not sure. I'm guessing that would be an issue for just about any extended length spring pack that was also trying to keep from being too stiff, no? Maybe it is just the price to pay (replace the pack every so many years)?

When you guys say put spacers on the bump stops is that to pull them up a bit so that they would touch down later?

I do have a bunch of pictures in my new member post, let me know if you'd like a link or I could send them to you directly...

 

Meaning to only use them for the last two inches of travel versus the full length of the bump stop?

 

The main reason I keep it unlocked when not in use is to avoid unnecessary wear and tear versus a concern about MPG.

 

Correct. Those are likely 4" travel bumps (or longer?), when you likely only need 2" travel. Those air bumps can be opened up and add a spacer to reduce the overall travel. Of course you should def measure things to make sure they will still hit first. In general we recommend your air bump travel should be 1/3 of your up travel. Once they are set properly you can adjust nitrogen level to meet your needs. Those bypasses should be doing most of the work

 

Only pic I have, but threw in some 2.5" travel air bumps about a month ago. Dig the improvement over the superbumps, as I would compress them so much that they would start folding over/didnt have a reliable stop. Also another benefit is having the bumps out on the frame instead of inline with the frame, which makes bump at flex more relative to the vertical bump travel as the bumps are almost inline with the shock plane. Running 110 psi, which is just enough to keep the bump from bottoming at full flex/very hard hits. Might shorten them to 1.75"/2" someday just so I don't hear them on the street.

 

I would have though the bump stop in line with the frame would be stronger. Can the side mounted bump twist the frame? or is the frame gusseted in the mounting location to prevent and frame issues?

 

It can, but I plated the frame and added in another crossmember where the bumps mount.

 

2nd gen frames dovetail in the back unlike 1st gens so putting a can through the frame doesn't make it land where it would on a 1st gen and pretty far inboard on the axle.