Replacement of HVAC Blower Motor Resistor

You’ll know immediately when you pull the connector.

 

Resistor or connector going to it.

 

So I found this thread to see where the resistor is to test mine (mine also seems abnormally low on the two lowest settings - unless this is another Taco feature I didn't know about) and from the looks of the pics, the body extends into the duct? Is there some kind of sensor in the pact where it has to monitor the stream?

I found this article about the problems with the resistor, but it doesn't mention any kind of sensor.
https://www.fixmyoldride.com/Toyota-Tacoma-blower-problems.html

Looking at images on Rock Auto, it looks like there is a solder blob that is exposed on one side. Is that a sensor? If it is a sensor, what is it monitoring?

If there is no sensor, why mount it in the duct? Like can I pull it, block the hole, and clip the sensor somewhere so it will be easier to change on any future swap?

 

Toyota developed a new resistor and connector to address the issue. Like other dude said to do, pull your plug and see if it's burnt. If it is, it's the likely culprit. The new resistor kit is here

$67 TOYOTA Genuine Updated Blower Motor Resistor & Pigtail Connector for Tacoma 2005-2017 - Parts 82141-04Q80 & 87138-04070

https://www.amazon.com/TOYOTA-Genuine-Resistor-Connector-2005-2017/dp/B07PV1BLCN

 

It’s a resistor not a sensor and it’s there to be cooled by the airflow. It has several different resistance levels, hence the multiple terminals. Afik, when the resistor or connector go bad you ONLY have off/high, the other settings simply don’t work. Reduced output on lower settings might be an issue with the blend door actuator. Check to see if air comes out only where it’s supposed to on each vent setting(floor, dash, defrost).

 

Good advice, although I will add that my connector crapped out leaving me with only 2/4 settings. Low & mid-low didn't work, mid-hi & hi worked just fine. Swapping in the kit fixed the problem.

 

I know it's a series resistor but was wondering why it's in the duct stream, so thought maybe the the solder blob I was seeing in part images was some kind of sensor thingy since it appeared to be exposed compared to the rest of the part that would sit in the duct.

It works - I can adjust the heat blending and the move the air from vent to floor to defrost, etc. Just seems to be weak in the first two settings. I can even hear that the fan speed jumps quite a bit from 2-3, at least more than I would expect from a one-step jump. I'll check all the motors/servos/door as well.

I'll probably not get to it until it warms up though since it works decently enough - of course now that I have put this in print, it's going to crap out...

 

Thanks both. That's good to know as well.

 

Just did mine!
Did the resistor and connection.
Used the denso one on Amazon like 20$ I think.
Didn’t realize the fan would run on hi without the resistor even being connected.

 

The resistor module has 3 strips of nichrome of differing lengths on an insulated plate so it gets really hot which is why it’s in the stream of air before the heater core. High bypasses the module which is why the blower still works even when the module terminals are cooked. As with the heated seats modules the terminals might be rated for the current but should have been derated for the excessive heat and heavier duty ones used or a larger heat sink plate used instead.

 

Yet another "fan working only on high" situation that led me here. Having dealt with blower motor resistor issues in other vehicles, to include bad contacts, I was glad to have been reminded of this (since it's been 20+ years since I've dealt with one). After checking out much of this thread, I started with checking the wiring, plug and terminals. Wiring showed some signs of heat, plug had a tan spot on it, and I could see a couple of the terminals did not appear to be contacting as well as they could. Popped out the worst ones (one being where the tan spot was) using a small cotter pin that fit into the slot where you release them, and gave the terminals some tweaking to create a better union to the pins. For now, I'm back to having all speeds.

If it continues to be a problem, all the info in here will make it easy to swap out the plug and resistor for a different style that hopefully lasts longer.

Thanks everyone for contributing.

 

Thanks for to this post I was able to upgrade and get it done within 30 minutes! Thank you!

 

Bit the bullet and installed the updated version from Toyota. Works well, lets hope it doesnt have the same problems... this is my 3rd now.

 

Mine started acting up two years ago - it’s a 2013 - ordered the replacement part - and it went back to working like normal - recently acted up again- looked at changing it - tugged on wires in figuring it out - and it’s working again - so I will leave it be for another 2 years …

 

When you last changed it, was it the "new" version or the old version?

 

I never changed it - I jostled the one in the truck in the course of replacing it and apparently “fixed” the connection

 

does anyone know what the new design connection colors match is?? Since we’re have different colors?? I just bought this kit but don’t know how to match the right wire colors together

 

The new resistor/connector/wiring matchup is in the TSB

 

Awesome thank you!!

 

Well it looks like my blower resistor and pigtail is good if anyone wants to buy the new oem resistor and pigtail it from me for $45 includes shipping.



My panel connection was actually fried . So I need to replace this instead