Couldn't getOil filter to come off

get this - it works and won't trash you housing. Way better than other options. I have one. Had the "others" which are a total P.O.S..

$28 CTA Tools 1726 Oil Filter Wrench - Compatible with Toyota

CTA Tools 1726 Oil Filter Wrench - Compatible with Toyota

 

My tundra has the same filter style as the third gen tacoma and mine's seeping a little at the housing (bought it used with 11k miles on it). My solution was to order the OEM aluminum replacement because there's a good chance I decimate that thing when I go to remove it for the next change. Seeing as it's the same exact style as the tacoma, I imagine the aluminum replacement would work for you too. Or just have another plastic one on standby.

 

I would go to the dealer. If they brake it, they will replace it. Tell them to tight it to spec.

 

It will be, you'll lose less than a quart just doing a filter change but you don't have to dump it all nor will it all drain if you just do the filter. Sucks Mike; good luck man.

 

At least I'm good and have no leaks. I'm going to have to work at this another day now at this point. With out a garage to work in and bad weather coming in a few days it's going to wait but ill be checking the oil level.
Good to know I won't loose that much oil. A quart or two is fine considering. This is the wrench I used and it was well talked up here a year or so ago


Looks like I'm going to need a breaker bar which I should have a 24" long one.

 

I find they loosen easier when hot. The o-ring is more pliable.


And yes, as was already said, slow and steady pull on a long-handle ratchet or breaker bar is the ticket.

 

take it back to the dealer, tell them to remove it and put it back on using a proper torque wrench using the specified torque setting. They screwed it up, they will fix it. The dealership I bought my '18 from did something similar on one of the "free services". I took it directly to them with a print out of the torque settings to use....they fixed it, and I suspect were a little more than embarrassed to have a 70 year old customer tell them how to do their job. Got a free 30,000 service and Starbucks gift card for my trouble. They did it right at the 30,000 service.

 

better too tight, then too loose. then when it comes off they are liable for engine damage.

 

I told the dealer at my final free oil change to please not over tighten filter housing.

The guy said "we'll try, but I can't make any promises".

The oring does the sealing. The housing requires zero torque....

 

Issue is the dealership that last did the oil change was in Baltimore where I bought it. Hanover did the last 15,000 mile Toyota care were they don't change the oil the other day but I decided to do it myself. Unfortunately it's a little bit too difficult to go back to this gorillas that did over tighten it.

I agree with you it doesn't take much torque to seal it. When I did the oil change at 5,000 miles I basically turned it in by hand all the way in and nudged it a tiny bit more with the wrench.

I've learned from the metal can filters over years not to over tighten. These take even less.

 

Factory was this way too. Torqued to over 60ft/lbs. On a plastic housing with a rubber o ring. Torqued to 60 ft/lbs. It should have been 18! That's not even worth torquing lol. I had to check because it was so tight. I was shocked.

 

Where would you apply the oil?

 

I have gotten the motivx tool on there but not really on there like it needed to be. I mention this just to share my experience. You also mentioned losing daylight so it could be a similar factor, in my situation on my son's Scion that has the same housing and less clearance to see. Bottom line is make sure the slots are correctly aligned, and push up on it to hold it squarely.
As far as draining and not losing all the oil, I would believe it should work, and you'll know how much is going to come out when draining the housing.
Good luck.

 

I believe the plastic housing gets tighter on its own with all the hot and cold cycles the housing is going thru. I always replace my own oil and filter and never overtightened the filter housing. After trying to loosen the filter on my third oil change and thinking It was going to break from being too tight I had enough. Switched to the aluminum replacement and the problem went away. I think the aluminum housing expands and contracts the same as the block. Comes off easier when it’s time to replace the filter.

 

I use the Motrivx tool. Works great. I found the tool can be too tight and hard to get the hosing out of the tool when you put it on all the way. I found putting a light coat of oil on the inside of the tool makes it easy to get the canister housing out and you can put it on very snug which makes it easier to get the housing off. I hope this helps.

 

I was making sure the the slots were lined up properly. Actually thought that was my problem at first but it wasn't I double checked myself on that.
It wasn't really dark yet at that time. But since it was being an issue I decided to close up an refill because I wanted to be done before sunset.

I have an aluminum one already on standby if I need it when I can get it off.

I'm going to have to do it when I have a Saturday with no rain or take it to a mechanic.
And the mechanic used before recently retired and Im not looking forward to finding a new place.

 

This is the filter wrench I've been using and works great. Your problem isn't with the wrench, it's that you took it to a dealer to have your last oil change.

 

Yeah, I know the bummer deal of losing a trusted, competent and fair mechanic to retirement. Same thing happened to me year or so ago.

 

But it was "free"...... Now not free if I have this to deal with. I'm seriously considering not going back for the next one.

 

here is the fix...
https://www.baxterperformanceusa.com/product/ts-501-bk-cartridge-to-spin-on-adapter-universal/