Long Travel BS Thread

Awesome build, I’m scrolling through. The taco pump is 9-12” tall spring loaded so I’ll check if that’ll fit in the RCI. I’m guessing cut a ring and bolt it with some permatex as a seal? Can’t be much to it

 

Thanks man. I just got more of the factory gaskets and use those as the seals sandwiched in all the layers. Just cut the pickup and float height to make appropriate height.

 

Yes. 4th gen v8 4runner. My advice after getting this far into it, put a damn fuel cell where your spare tire was and 4 link it. 3 link is a giant pain in the ass.

Correct - Not on the forums much. IG is just easy.

 

Yeah if money isn’t a limitation and emissions aren’t required in your state I don’t see much reason.

 

A fuel cell isn't all that much more money when you're already a couple grand deep in shocks, joints and brackets.

 

Thanks, I didn't want to say so until you did, but that is definitely the route I plan to go, might as well go full send and not fuck around with a 3 link. Honestly moving the gas tank is a huge improvement by itself.

I don't post on IG, but following you now and will keep tabs.

 

Exactly.

 

Correct. I wish I would have pushed harder for a fuel cell on this 4runner. It would move it to a better place and you'd have a chance to tuck it up above the frame rails. even if it intrudes into the cab, there is already so much sheet metal work to do back there with 37's and added up travel, it really wouldn't be that much more work. More fuel capacity means ditching spare gas cans. The only con is the jeep speed fuel cell that fits back there is more expensive than other Jaz fuel cells.

 

Haven't gotten that far in planning and still a ways out, but I am considering a custom sized one to get the most out of the useable space. Again, full send, do it right.

 

https://www.jazproducts.com/store/jeepspeed

Should fit nicely in between the frame rails

 

Fabbing the cradle for a cell and reconfiguring things for one changes a person's skillset requirements and the scope of the project quite a bit imo. Plus not everyone is going to have a buddy to dirty smog your truck and having to deal with the kind of people that tend to offer that service is lame in my experience.

The price for canoe links and big boy bypasses and coilovers are also things I'd factor as well as tying shock mounts into a cab cage to protect passengers from the speeds you'll hit once you have 23"+ in the rear.

To me a 3 link is a big step up from SUA and have a nice daily driver that hangs on the weekends. 4 link is great if you're in a no-smog state where you can get the vehicle registered no problem or have a good way to get it smogged and the time and resources for a fully caged vehicle.

Building a rock crawler is a big difference. No interior cage needed if you don't want one. If I lived in the wilderness and didn't need my truck to be up and running asap and had the cash a 4 linked caged version of my truck would be the goal for my truck.

 

I have a question for those that know more about bilstein valving than I do. I have a friend with a second gen who is building a no frills crawler and is going to put some 14” short body bilsteins in the rear. Another friend has them with 255/70 valving and loves them. DSM has 170/60 in stock versus a 4 month wait.

My question is if anyone has any idea if 170/60 would work well or not. I don’t know bilsteins nomenclature well but I assume it’s softer in both compression and rebound than the 255/70.

 

Just order them and get some shims to revalve them

 

I called accutune about that when I was looking for bypasses and some guy had some bilstein’s abs accutune’s response was bilstein won’t just sell shims…

 

@AccuTune Offroad - is there no way to buy shims for rebuildable Bilsteins? I know they had a rep on here but he sold his truck.

 

I did some searching and found some old pirate threads on the matter but couldn’t find anywhere current to buy shims. Not like I would change the stack, it’s more involved than I care to be on his build to be honest.

 

Dude compared to half the shit you've done on your truck it's like tying your shoe laces

 

in all honesty now that I think about it it might not have been accutune….lol.

 

I mean they're super thin washers that fit around a shaft and as long as the OD and ID and thickness are right (and made from the right material) they'll work. They're obviously manufactured to go in the shocks at the factory and upscale Blackhawk shocks are made to compete with competitors that all sell shims.

 

There is some talk in this thread about valving on the 14” short bodies. Most have had success with the stiffer valving but you could reach out to a few of these guys running them in SOA configuration and see if they can give you any details.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...k-relocation-kit.233021/page-55#post-26552428