I really do NOT enjoy changing spark plugs.

About to cross 200k miles! I’m pretty disciplined in changing my plugs regularly. This time however, I waffled. I went 50k+.
Today, I let my truck cool down and just went for it.
Holy. One fought me on the way out. It was tight coming out. I called my Toyota mechanic friend and he said sometimes they resist. He said to leave it and he will do that one. He also said, they rarely strip. I know it went in nice, so I tightened it down and I felt it loosen up. It came out easy and the new one spun in happily. But it GAVE ME A FRIGHT!

the remaining five went easy, and I’m buttoned up. I told my wife, “I’m selling this thing before I have to do that again!”

and we laughed…..!! I hate this part. I’d crap myself on a 100k mile plug change.

 

I’ve seen first hand multiple horror shows with plugs breaking or stripping. I do a lot of my own wrenching but that’s the one thing I take my truck to the dealership for hahaha.

 

I get nervous myself.
I never used to, but I’ve seen first hand the head ache of doing plug repairs.

I have never used a Torque Wrench on plugs. And usually use a small amount of anti-seize. I might actually use one the next time around. Since I actually bought a wrench that goes down low enough.

I never, EVER, what to attempt a thread repair.

 

I was so happy when the new plug spun in by hand.


I’ll sell this thing before the next time I think.

 

I get nervous myself.

There’s been guys go 100k on plugs.
Should you?, No.
But they did………


By that time, you’ll have close 300k.
Again, not saying to run them that long.
Just giving you an idea how long you might have to save up for a “new” truck.
Since you don’t want to change them again.

 

Truth!
Last time I used the tiniest amount of anti seize. This time I carefully and neatly applied it. It should be better next time. Fingers crossed.

 

Apparently you've never had the joy of attempting to remove spark plugs from a 2nd generation Ford modular motor.

 

It should help. Some times it carbon build up on the end of the plug. That can fight you on the way out too.

 

That is exactly what was being done in my picture above. Notice the plug brand?

 

Ah yes. I didn't notice that. I assume you had fun there? Techs were really pulling their hair (and threads) out until they figured out that a 3/8" cordless impact did a bang up job of rattling them out.

 

Let’s just say, I was the 3rd person to “look” at it.
Person #1 had repaired the plug before.
Person #2 couldn’t get the plug out.
I got the plug out, the truck needs a new motor.
Attempting to repair the previous repair was unsuccessful.

Why a new motor?, Because 297k is why.
No need to replace the head.

 

I have always used anti-seize on spark plug threads, with great success. They have always come out with no drama for me.

The only close calls I've experienced were in the first plug changes prior to anti seize.

 

My friend went thru this. It was awful.
The story is what probably fueled my anxieties.

 

If I feel a spark plug coming out hard I stop and spray some type of penetrating oil on the plug and give it time to get to the threads. Then work the plug back and forth until it comes out. So far, knock on wood, it hasn't failed me yet.

 

That’s very smart. I should’ve come up with as well. Next time!

 

This isn’t what I wanted to read. My first plug change will be coming up this spring. Any specific reason why the 4.0 is a pita or as puckering as described? I’ve changed plugs in my current 92 three times and my previous 06 DC tundra twice. Not even the slightest issue with either of those.

 

I do put a dab of anti-seize on the threads but I do not fully coat them.

 

I'd rather do plugs in a Tacoma any day of the week vs many other vehicles, I did a Ford 6.2 today (16 plugs) the 8 on top are easy, the 8 on the sides not so much.

 

Tacoma is one of the easiest plug changes I have ever done. After reading some of the comments above about using anti-seize and a torque wrench I have to say be VERY careful. The anti-seize reduces friction a lot so you have a good chance of stripping the threads if you shoot for the torque spec. Best to tighten them by feel with a smallish 3/8" drive tool.

 

Exactly. I regularly work on engines that are notorious for being difficult to get the plugs out. A few tricks I’ve learned. Cold engine as in sat overnight. Blow the dirt out of the area. Crack it loose, spray penetrant, move on to the next one. After doing them all, go back to the first one, more penetrant, some back and forth action with a T bar. Out, in, out more, in less, repeat until you start to feel tension, more penetrant, in, out, in more, out less until it seats. Out, in, out more, in less, now the tension should feel less. The goal being to get the penetrant worked in all the way down to the bottom of the plug and plug hole threads. Then the leap of faith, remove it. If the bottom of the plug is wet with penetrant, the hole shouldn’t be too bad. Run a plug tap in and out slathered with anti seize or tapex. The new plug should thread in by fingers all the way down. Of course anti seize on the new plugs. ANTI SEIZE IS MY FRIEND.