Couldn't getOil filter to come off

Gen 2 guy here but my 2012 RAV4 has the plastic cartridge with a paper filter to replace inside.. on the side of the cartridge, there is a tab which must be lifted to unscrew. Is that the case on the Gen 3 Tacoma?

 

I recommend replacing the plastic oil filter cap assembly with an aluminum one -
Genuine OEM Toyota New Oil Filter Housing Cap 15620-31060 & Plug

$35 15643-31050 Genuine OEM Toyota New Oil Filter Housing Cap + Plug 15620-31060 15643-31050

15643-31050

 

$250

 

I do my own changes. 2021 Tacoma and 2016 Rav4.
Today doing my Tacoma that sucker was tight...my first thought was who the "F" put this on. Then realized it was me.
With steady pressure it came loose. My guess it depends on temp. But I have never had one that felt this tight..
Steady pressure broke it loose.
P.S. I hate these cartridges..

 

I've always said that it's a good chance that the most expensive oil change you will ever get is a 'free' one from the dealer.

Here's the oil filler for a C7 Corvette Grandsport dry-sump oil system. It would surprise you how often oil is filled into the radiator coolant tank which is only about 10" away but both clearly labeled.
Now putting motor oil in the coolant system of a $18,000 HP engine, that's a real problem.

 

Also prevents drain back into the filter...all your oil is in the engine for start up. Takes a standard spin on filter of your liking.
The cartridge's are a pita.

 

I have the spin on. I'd recommend the full relocation kit instead. I'll be upgrading next oil change.

Personally, didn't think there was much wrong with the stock setup and it wasn't that complicated with the right tools can be made very easy, but I'm an experimenter and this was a "why not" project for me. The relocation serves a much better purpose. The spin on mod is good, but will still cause the typical oil filter leak when removing.

 

This one?


It's most likely going on when that one comes off.
I bought it to have in case. Would have been on now but didn't have enough time to continue the struggle to get the plastic one off.

Edit.
The cap didn't come with the plug thing, so you can't use the one off the plastic one???

 

way less the the shitty cartridge I find...spin on is way to simple...like me!

 

That's interesting because third generation does have that tab but I've never had to lift it up to turn the housing off. It seems like I can hear a few clicks of that thing right before it's GMJ tight. (At work, that stands for good mechanical judgment)

 

I considered one of these until I heard examples of these seizing up.

 

It was tighted to spec.
I do my oil changes for a while and use a torque wrench on the cartridge. I have to use a breaker bar to get it off. This is how it goes. The dealer does not use an impact on them...

 

I don't know if it helps but I get this stuff free from work when the expiration date is up. I lube those o-rings with it. Oil should work fine though.
Wife gobs it on the two filter housings o-rings on swimming pool too. Just a basic o ring lubricant.

 

Could you please elaborate on the drain back on OEM vertically hang filter full of oil?

 

That's the one. I believe the plastic plug has the same three pitch but am not 100% sure.

 

https://www.baxterperformanceusa.com/

 

Same. I just left the housing stuck in the tool. It broke free finally when I was putting it all back together. Might look for another wrench before next time.

 

Wut? Don't torque it to 400 ft/lbs and use white lithium on the o-ring.

 

Stop using a 27 mm. A socket wrench fits right on to the cartridge tool. Lay down under the truck, put one hand on the head of the wrench, the other on the handle. Lock your elbows and use your shoulders/body to turn the wrench. You don't need a breaker bar for a plastic canister.

 

the dealership maintenance goons tighten them down to 600,000 foot pounds
They do the same for your lug nuts IF they rotate your tires.