I really do NOT enjoy changing spark plugs.

I agree this is like 140k.
Way overdue but truck still ran fine.
I put denso back in all 6 holes.

 

No worries. Those Fords have some goofy looking plug that's about 12" long.

 

I think you have turned a wrench for a living at one time.

 

Are you a professional? Do you do this for a living every day?
The car was driven to you. It is hot. They ask you to change the spark plugs. You immediately change the spark plugs. Done.

 

I never said you couldn’t.
Anyone else can do it how they want.
Tighten them down in a hot cylinder head, doesn’t bother me.
I’m not the one doing it………….

Like I said, maybe I was taught wrong

No

No

No

I would not immediately change the plugs.
I would wait until it is cool.
If they need it immediately, they can drive it else where.


I am not of the mentality that “It’s not my car, I don’t care”
Not if I’m doing the work on it. If I’m working on it for someone else, I’ll do the best I can.
I do not do my best when I change the plugs on a hot engine.

 

Looks like the NGK wore a bit “faster” or worse?

 

The worst I did was a Cadillac 4.6 Northstar engine.
It’s a transverse mounted v8. I did it without removing the intake, I didn’t have any extra parts to make the job “easier”. Plugs was all the parts I got.

 

I've done a bunch of the newer plugs at the 90-110K mile change interval. They ALL come out making me feel that they're pulling the threads out of the head. They haven't. I've done enough that I don't worry as much anymore. I work on a cold engine and then put a very light coating of anti-seize on the new plug's threads. yes, I know you're not supposed to do this according to NGK, Ford, etc, but it works for me and I've never had any issues.

 

I think the reason manufacturers don't recommend anti-seize compound on the threads is that they're afraid some shade tree mechanic is going to pull the threads out of a head on re-installation. (Most folks don't know that you have to reduce the installation torque when you use it.) If you take your time removing a plug and work it back and forth as you feel resistance, they generally come out fine though.

 

OP ... you think your nervous changing plugs !!!


Try changing plugs on my 72 Camaro that has a 427sbc Gen 1 engine with AFR 210 aluminum heads

It usually takes 1.5 hours minimum to change all the plugs . I've got a few things working against in this task , first is the exh ports on the cyl heads have been raised 1" . Second is angle plug headers on straight plug heads and lastly the primary tubes are 1-7/8 compared to standard 1-5/8th primaries

Next it's not just simple grab your spark plug socket , extension and ratchet to remove the plugs . This only works on two cylinders . I've got to use offset box end wrench that fits the spark plug socket for four cylinders . The remaining two cylinders left using a box end wrench to fit the spark plug itself

 

It’s possible to pull the threads out.
But most of the time, the insulators crack first.
Sometimes you know when happens, sometimes you don’t.

I’ve heard of cases where the threaded portion of the plug twist off too.
But never seen it. ……yet.

 

Ford has a TSB stating to not use anti seize on spark plugs because it impairs the heat transfer from the plug into the head and can lead to pinging. Dunno. I've always used anti-seize and never had an issue. And will continue to do so. But it doesn't take much, I use very sparingly. I use the nickel anti-seize as it has the highest temp ratings. I've ran the friction numbers and you're supposed to reduce the torque ~15% IIRC. I generally don't bother and have never had an issue.

I changed plugs on an Outback over the holidays. What a PITA to do the driver's side!!!

 

Autocraft plugs = junk. OEM or NGK (which is OEM) is all I'll use. I recently changed my factory plugs and they came out just fine. Was a pleasant Saturday evening truck bonding session for me

 

That plug in the picture, was never in a Toyota.

I used Denso when I did mine.

 

It's a 45min job iirc.

 

You don't know frustrating until you do plugs on a 1st gen tundra. Never again. Helped a buddy do his and it was a long painful process. The plugs on 99-04 mustang 4v are aggravating too especially getting to the passenger side back plug.

 

glad i didnt read this thread before doing mine, might have convinced me otherwise lol

if you look for horror stories you're going to find them. I'd say anyone with basic mechanic skills can do it easily. I'd never done it on my tacoma, took me about an hour.

 

Well overdue for a change. Good job
Just because they'll go for a 100k doesn't mean you should. There are 100k mile plugs out there but those ain't them.

 

I'm surprised to hear so many people have issues or fears with their Tacoma plugs. I've found my Taco to be by far the easiest vehicle I've ever worked on, motorcycles included.

Not everyone is cut out to be a a wrench, and that's OK. The first (and last) time I cooked I nearly killed myself from food poisoning, and I don't even go near a kitchen anymore. Sometimes it's better to accept defeat than try again.

 

To be fair, people can be on Medicare very young so that doesn't indicate much..kidding, kidding.

I always do the plugs cold, especially since some of my older cars were V8 Chevy vehicles and not the easiest to reach in the first place. Though my 77 Malibu with the straight 6, I drove it a few minutes and used the radiant heat for warmth while working haha.

Worst one I recall, my 1983 Monte Carlo V6. Figured it would be fast since I had owned a V8 Monte and V8 Camaro. Nope. #6 was so jammed in the back I had my buddy get under and hold the socket while I got maybe 2 clicks at a time.

My 4 cylinder Tacoma though, pretty straightforward. Did it Sept 2020 cold and took maybe 2 hours but that includes taking breaks. I did use a sliver of anti-seize, bearing in mind the interval for the 4 cyl is 100K and I do wish to keep it for that long. The original plugs had about 107-110K