Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

The issue with trying to boot the slide rack is the driver side input shaft hangs over the side of the rack housing and makes contact with the clevis at full lock. The only way to deal with this problem is to change the clevis design but this will also have an impact on the steering geometry.

I will say of the 46 slide racks we have out there you are the only one that has had “issues” from lack of a boot. As we have discussed the internal seals in the rack need to be swapped over for a more robust double lip seal.

As I’ve stated many times we choose to stay away from a modified tundra rack because when it fails (and yes they will fail too) you are SOL until you can source another modified rack. If all you are doing is hot lapping around little off road parks then a broken tundra rack probably isn’t a huge concern. For the stuff we do being 1000miles away from home in the middle of Mexico one off broken parts are a nightmare.

Honestly they best solution is to convert to a steering box. Any and all OE racks will always be the weak link... slide racks, tundra racks, 200 series racks are all just band aids. The problem with a steering box is you’re looking at $5k in parts and about the same in labor. So that’s where we felt the slide rack is the best value for the money and prevents the use of one off parts. If the worst thing about it is that once a year you put new seals in it we can live with that.

 

Problem for me is I’ll be replacing a rack every year. Not just seals. My rack that was brand new with the slide rack is done. I’m limping it along until the truck comes down for the build. I’m not going to put a new rack in it every year. It’s just not fun at that point. I just don’t have the time to do a box setup right now, but I do know that’s the absolute best route to go.

I fully understand you guys can’t cater to all of us perfectly. And I won’t knock you for it. I’m just stuck in a bad spot now where I need to find a solution for myself. Whether it’s making a new clevis or just doing away with the slide rack all together.

 

Screenshots may appear on that “other forum”

 

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I was just hoping to hear some ideas I haven’t thought of, that’s all. I’d like to keep it around and make it work. Especially since I’ve spent over 20k on this build since July. I really didn’t want to spend a bunch more. But I guess you gotta do what you gotta do.

 

If you’re not happy with the slide rack please send it back and I’m happy to give you a full refund. Above all we want to make sure our customers are 100% happy with our products

 

That’s the problem! It’s the first time I haven’t had racks break and I love it. I am happy with it. It just sucks the rack is giving me trouble.

 

I will say: any time we want to modify and deviate away from stock many issues with everything will arise. You may need to replace the rack every year regard less if you have the slide rack. It may come down to what works better when working trying to handle 35's. We can look at the whole Jeep thing. Lots of people love jeeps and those that can afford too still change everything away from what was stock and still work on them more than they get used. It is just part of the game.

 

You aren’t wrong there. I’m just not one to give up without a fight.

I’ve even considered depowering the factory rack but using the servo on the factory rack to drive a hydro cylinder that would be put in place of the slide rack portion.

 

Troof!!!! Pretty much the only thing left stock on this thing is the eng. and trans.

 

I don't think you understand the environment that these things are getting put through. We literally have de-icer 6 or 7 months out of the year. The de-icer eats wires, seals, bare metal, etc. I'm sure that it's a problem like 906 is saying. On our trucks and trailers at work we keep plenty of abs sensors and lights on hand because of the de-icer. It's just a different type of thing to think about.

 

Don't want to run a Tundra rack? While it may be modified, people race KOH on them and seemingly don't have issues.

 

Probably what it’s going to come down to. But no, I didn’t really want to run one.

 

Can I ask why not? When you say you are breaking racks, what are you actually breaking?

 

Today’s progress on Wills truck.



Trying to time myself against Harry’s 16hr install. So far I’m at about 6-6.5. But I think most of the hard part is done.

That said I have a quick question mr @81Trekker
All said and done will the 934’s be the limiting factor for the 2.25” kit? Or will it be the shock or ball joints? We shipped out stock axles today for you and I’m just wondering if I should wait to get the 934’s back before setting limit straps and what not. They said with the holiday you wouldn’t get them until Wednesday and I’m hoping to have this thing be a roller by the end of next weekend so I can roll it out and have a few days to prep my truck for KOH. Just don’t want to assemble it if I’m gonna have to pull half of it apart again to cycle suspension.

 

Without the slide rack I was skipping teeth constantly and broke 2 mounts.

Main reasoning for wanting the slide rack to work is because I don’t want my lower pivots to basically become useless as far as moving my LCA forward.

Also, the tundra rack lands stupid close to the 934’s. And I wouldn’t be shocked if there’s some bumping going on there.

 

On my 2.25 kit with 934s and kings ordered from harry, the limiting factor was the upper uniball.

Edit: at full droop the 934s still had a healthy margin they could have kept going, I wanna say 4°-5°. So if you have the kit and the coilovers you’ll be running, I don’t see why you couldn’t set limit straps.

 

Set the straps to protect the upper ball joint at full droop and you will be good

 

From what he has told me is he is not breaking racks, he submerged the entire front end really bad one time and sucked mud past the seals so now the rack leaks

 

Sweet. That’s what I wanted to know. That way I can cycle it and set that while waiting for the axles and uca gussets to arrive