Long Travel BS Thread

Find me a lathe and dimensions and material specs and I could make them all day long. Kicking myself for not buying a lathe that was for sale locally on the cheap.

 

My buddies Cherokee has bilstein 9100's on it. We had a heck of a time getting shims from Bilstein and an even harder time with valving recommendations from them. We were working thru a large distributor. They still didn't send us the correct shims the first time. Supposedly they are putting more into offroad again now but I can't vouch for that.

This is the Cherokee. It has coilovers all the way around.
https://youtu.be/Cxnk8hpPGYk

 

If I'm not mistaken they're made out of spring steel which isn't necessarily an easy metal to tool but that would be nice to have the ability to make your own.

 

It's harder, you just use lots of lube and go slow.

 

Set that one up didn't I.

 

Shims are made from spring steel....very thin.. .008-.020" thick....you don't just whip em up likes it's easy peasy on a lathe lol...

They're usually stamped out from a sheet

 

Shim stock and a punch press all day.

 

Question for anyone who reads this maybe you can help. Is it possibly to weld a strike plate to a total chaos kit it’s the 2010-2011 kit before it was plated now.

 

Anything is possible but if you have a tube lower arm it is not a good idea because it is not designed for that force to be applied. How bad an idea really depends on how hard you push the truck.

 

Go for it

 

Need input on full bump cycling on SUA.

I’m scared to force the drive shaft into a negative degree figuring my bump stops.
Someone said don’t be afraid to get the axle close to the frame at full bump but last night I was at ~4.5” from the bottom of the frame with the driveshaft at 0°.

someone said they lost quite a bit of up travel bumping where I’m at now and ended up redoing it and got much better results.

thoughts on pushing the driveshaft negative?





if I push it further the main leaf gets a little negative curve and the driveshaft also exceeds 0 degrees.

 

Maybe this is just me being uneducated on the matter, but why would it matter if your driveshaft is “negative” when just driving around town your driveshaft is living at a substantial angle?

 

the farther negative I push the farther the shaft slides into the slip yoke. I don’t want the driveline to bind negative on a hard hit if I don’t bump proir to the splines going too far

 

Ahhh that makes sense. Thanks for the explanation. I thought it was a u joint issue.

 

Bump it as high as you can...going"negative" isn't going to hurt anything u joint wise. When at your desired bump...pop the diffside of the driveshaft off and see if it's bottoming out(which is bad)....and if it is...you can get the driveshaft shortened not a big deal

 

What are you guys doing for exhaust? I’ll have to ditch the stock muffler, and I’m 99% sure I’m not going to enjoy the sound.

 

Is that just because it’ll be in the way of the links I assume? I have mine dumping before the axle but that probably doesn’t help you any.

 

Yeah it’ll be all in the way. It’s unbolted where it has the spring loaded bolts. Anything past the carrier bearing is probably a no go. There’s got to be a mini muffler or something haha