Long Travel BS Thread

A quick search and there’s definitely options, they’ll just be louder than stock for sure. Me, I don’t like anything too obnoxious so I would shove the largest one I could in there.

 

You and me both. Plus a v6 sounds gross. I don’t know what ill effects may come up with changing it though. I don’t know enough about it. I know a certain amount of back pressure is necessary to keep things happy, but what and how to calculate it is new to me.

 

Dude, you’re getting so damn far ahead of yourself. If you can’t take it one step at a time this project is going to eat you up and it’s never going to be done.

 

Lol I wouldn’t worry about that in the slightest. This is a Toyota V6, not some tuned racing machine. Slap any muffler on it that’ll fit and you’ll be aight.

 

do a high clearance crossover to the pass side then tuck an oval muffler under the cab then all you have to do from there is figure out how much tail pipe you can navigate around your 4 link. You can also add a resonator to knock out any drone in the cab. You’ll be surprised how good it can sound

 

Not sure I follow on the passenger side crossover. It’s already on the passenger side. I was thinking I could fit a small muffler right before the carrier bearing and dump to the rear. Going to be tight with the links.

 

Thats a good bit negative.. I dont think the driveshaft going negative is an issue as long as it doesnt bind, pinion angle is the important one. Seems like you have a lot of swing left in the shackles, dont forget to check the shackles at full droop that they wont invert.

I run this, dumps out the side under frame rail, sounds similar to OEM TRD muffler, but slightly louder, not too much drone.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Hoffco+Comet...aLz9wgSxisE1zpOdQpiVMaKTH3doBsEaAiyeEALw_wcB#

 

I think that should work. I’m not sure if I can get away with dumping to the side though. Wouldn’t want to lose the clearance. Bad idea to just turn it straight down under the cab? We go slow here, so I’m not sure if heat or exhaust gas build up will be a big factor for the cab. My gut tells me a it’s a no no

 

Leaf springs, wouldn't the drive shaft bottom on droop not bump? Should just have to make sure it doesn't bind at bump.
Like everyone else said: bump as high as you can. An inch of negative arch is considered safe by deaver still I believe.

 

both technically, since the axle travels in a "C" from bump to droop, but I dont think most setups bump as high and they droop therefore not likely to bind at bump?

 

I agree it can bind at bump and full droop. But when you droop out it swings forward based on the spring arch and length of the shackle. This determines the shortest length of the driveshaft. The inverse is true for bump. The spring flattens out and the shackle moves backwards determining the longest length. This of course is if your shackle is setup correct

 

I forgot to take the shackle in consideration, so yeah it wouldnt come back forward since the shackle would have hit the frame already

 

Well what else is there to do I rather not run a rubber bump, the only difference in the chaos kit now from 10 years ago is tube and plate.

 

Revalve. I’m running a rubber bump and beating the shit out of the truck the last few years. Gonna add a bypass this summer but still running a rubber bump. Or bump off the spindle and gusset the shit out of it

 

You usually end up bumping next to the tube. I have seen the plate cracking the welds and separating from the tube.

like he said above. Use to be people would only bump off the spindle bolt on those kits. You are better of with a bypass and get your shocks dialed in.

 

You can theoretically talk about how the spring path moves till your blue in the face...its a leaf spring its a noodly path at best.

Either way when your done do not let the driveshaft bind...period.

 

After driving 300 miles today I am convinced the best Tacoma mod I’ve done was the F-150. What an absolute nonissue it was driving. No loud tires, could use cruise control, brakes work, gas pedal makes the truck move forward, fit a baby and stroller in the giant cab (usually the baby rides in the bed strapped to the spare) Best of all the Tacoma is in pieces in the garage and it doesn’t keep me up at night. I can enjoy the process of working on it and make “better” decisions about its future

 

Ha. have been browsing F250s or vans for our company to lease. I am sick of 5+ hour commutes in my LT rig. On another note, anyone running 35.5 w/ 5.29 & wide body. I am getting literally 10mpg its killing me. I am thinking of going down to 4.88 or I have even considered bigger tires since the math checks out but I doubt in theory it would lol

 

How should the bushings be set up on a lower arm? I have a solo XLT kit and I am getting ready to weld the cam lockout plates in but the bushings stick out farther than the inner sleeve so when I tighten the bolt down the arm just moves and the bushings are stationary.

 

37’s, 5.29’s, and a supercharger here and I can get 13-14mph with regular street driving. Playing around in the dirt and yeah I drop below 10, but just regular commuting and it’s not too bad.