MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

You can swap in an FJ pedal with all the fixin's

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/daves-drivers-truck.659667/#post-23055719

31301-35270 Pedal Sub-Assembly Clut $36.52 1 $36.52
90389-06055 Bush $2.35 1 $2.35
90541-06036 Cushion $1.12 2 $2.24
31420-35070 Master Cylinder $89.70 1 $89.70
31454-30030 Boot Master Cylinde $4.06 1 $4.06
31404-35013 Clevis Sub-Assembly Cylinder $49.55 1 $49.55
90240-T0002 Pin W Hole $1.42 1 $1.42
90386-08033 Bush $1.69 1 $1.69
90206-08001 Washer Wave $1.12 1 $1.12
90468-15006 Clip $1.12 1 $1.12
Subtotal: $189.77
Shipping: $19.99
Tax: $13.88
Total: $223.64

And if you do, this place I've found the cheapest. No tax, free shipping.

https://parts.jimellistoyota.com/

 

Too bad that’s in the US and I don’t feel like doing that - maybe when/if something happens I’d do the full on swap.
I’m just gathering info cause I just stumbled across that spring removal and it doesn’t have a lot of constant replies - maybe for a reason. Spring stays in.

 

Dremel deleted accumulator today. No more having to granny the clutch. No more clunking going into 5th or 6th. No problems shifting up or down. I am happy with the mod. Thanks to everyone that contributed to this thread.

 

Completed this the other day. Another angel got their wings, And no more huckabuck shifts. Thank you tonered and others.

 

You're welcome!

 

Ill get in on this!

 

Didn't know there was traction on this already, since I uhhh, unwatched this thread somehow awhile back. If you guys can get to 10, I'm game.
If you can't get to 10, then I'll do it for the people on the list, since overall, the demand for this mod probably isn't high.
Pretty much at $20 a pop, I'm doing it for the TW community, and that works for me... I mean shit... maybe one of you might pull me out of the woods/mud/snow one day.

It is easy, but you need to get the holes straight to the mill in order to mill between them, and Toyota did not expect anyone to do this, so you have to square up the clamping surfaces first.
It's more like a 2 operation set up. Not saying this is hard, but it's more time consuming for sure.

1. Stand the part up so saw cut is facing up, and mill the saw cut end, it gets it close enough. This will square you up to mill between the holes (since the opposite side of this saw cut is one of the ports, which is square enough for this "gub'mint" work).
2. Then take a 1-2-3 block and stick it on the top of your vise jaws. Put the accumulator under the 1-2-3 block between the vise jaws, then clamp. Now you are quickly flat, and your holes are straight enough. 3. Dial in one of the holes to find center with an indicator.. or cheater method, get a gage pin the size of the hole in a chuck and move the mill around till it drops in one of the holes.
4. Get a sharp corner end mill smaller than the hole. Not sure why you would use a ball nose here, radius cutters chatter more easily since it takes more force to drive them, and since you need a small end mill, I would suggest against this but none-the-less, it would prob work. Also, if you have a ball nose, you won't get a nice clean flat bottom, which to me looks a bit better.
5. I took half the depth in one pass, zipped it to width in the second pass back, then repeat to full depth.
6. Deburr it nicely and you're done.

If you do multiples it makes it a lot easier, because 1, you can do all the square up milling at once, and 2, you can set up a "X" stop, so you only have to dial in the part once to do repeats.

 

I’m considering doing this mod. Has anyone regretted it in anyway?

 

I'm sure the only regrets were not doing it sooner


Dive in

 

Nope

 

^ this

 

I am happy I bought the manual now.

 

Need to catch up through most of these posts -- there's no 'plug n play' way to do this mod at this pt? Are y'all all going in on manufacturing the pieces needed?

have a 'new to me' '17 MT and I guess the accumulator is what I'm noticing with the weird engagement only at the very tippy top of the clutch pedal?

 

That was my experience, the clutch did not correspond at all to what the clutch pedal was doing.

Regular shifts were jerky most of the time and downshifting was a guessing game that always ended with a slam shift.

 

We are tentatively planning a group milling of takeoff accumulators for potential direct swap to others in the future. Nobody provides a direct kit right now though it has been offered in the past. A dremel and some time gets it done on your own though and is generally the agreed upon best option.

 

Dremel'ing the accumulator is pretty much plug-n-play. The aluminum accumulator offers little resistance.



Note that the engagement point will not (should not) change with the ADM. It is a bit high, but I was used to it pretty quickly.

 

Add my to that list please.

I did accidentally leave the accumulator in my truck bed sliding around for a few weeks. Looks fine. Hopefully being banged around a bit didn't "break" it.

 

Done. Link in my signature. I think we are 8 now.

 

I'm interested in this as well