Official Crawlbox BS thread!

Granted above seems to be a worst case scenario on this particular case (ex. possible mismatched gears, obviously dry fitted, and even has the MC dual bearing fill slot that was known to have failure issues) I grabbed a pic of. But certainly plenty in the old archives of here, TTORA, Pirate, and when it was Delphi for the real early guys. But still plenty out there to support its an issue that needed to be addressed. Like anything, multiple factors contribute to said abuse.

 

Both, but most happens at the shorter factory chain tcase input.

 

Okay, just checking. I’ll plan to do them both sometime before wheeling season.

 

I had a failure on the bolded part on my case. went with the newer bearing that was posted on TTORA.

I think most the fretting that was in the pic u posted had more to do with shitty matched splines more than anything

 

Anyone decided to go with a one piece Tom woods driveshaft after adding a crawl box?

 

I am running a 1 piece, but it's not a woody and I had it before the crawlbox. Just had it shortened.

 

How do you like it? Cause any clearance issues

 

I have never had any issues any with clearance on the trail. Honestly the difference in clearance is negligible in my opinion. Unless you are person who already spends a lot of time on on your driveshaft because of choices you make, you're not all of a sudden going to start getting hung up because you swapped to a one piece unless you get enormous crawlbox balls and start doing stupider things...which you will.

My primary reason for switching was I got sick of chasing vibes on the 2 piece...but once again that was pre crawlbox. I spent a considerable amount of time with an angle finder and a pocket full of washers trying to space out the center bearing and get that 2 piece in tune, but only managed to move the vibes around to different speeds. I would absolutely do it (meaning the 1 piece) again. In fact, I had a spare built that travels with me on longer trips, but like I said, never needed it. I went double cardan and thicker tubing. I want to say $575 all in from a local shop.

I did have to cut off one side of the factory center bearing support mount that it was rubbing against.

 

I'm about to get a new driveshaft made.
Currently running a single piece without a double cardan.
What size u-joints should I be looking at?

 

Great info! Thank you

 

The anti seize stays on there pretty good, i split my cases after 5yrs and it was still on there.

I have used some crazy expensive moly grease and it all washed off pretty quick and I went back to anti seize. Whatever you do change the fluid evrey 6months looking for red tint/rust.

As for driveshafts I use 2 piece and has since 2008. I like the 2 piece it keeps everything tucked up and put of the rocks, especially when I had the factory axle back there. I did crush a carrier bearing the last trip out but that was the first time that has ever happened and I still drove it 5hrs home with no issue.

 

To add to @slander's comment above on the 2 piece, as much as I love my 1-piece, I think there are probably more folks on here who run a shortened 2-piece without issue. If you're cost conscious and not currently having issues with your 2-piece, I'd say save some money, get it shortened and maybe beefed up, but I wouldn't push you towards another almost $600 expense just because I like mine.

 

Jess at hi angle driveline actually talked me out of a 1 piece when I built my duals, saved me a ton of $$$!! You do have to phase them correctly which took me forever to figure out.

 

i run a one piece that i had made local. no issues and it wasnt that expensive either.

 

Yeah I was just thinking about spares. It would almost be the same price to source a used rear and get it shortened than it would be to just buy a ton woods 1 piece that is completely new.

 

As far as spares go, I think 2 piece is better with a crawlbox since you're less likely to f up the front, modified section of the shaft, so in theory you could candy cane the rear section and get a junkyard replacement for it versus with a 1 piece you need a whole new custom shaft.

 

As many have mention, a 2 piece will tuck higher vs a 1 piece. Plus, to shorten your factory 2 piece is way cheaper than having a custom built 1 piece. Cost me shy of 140 OTD to shorten and balanced my 2 piece. That was years ago, but price shouldn't be off by much.

 

i had my front extended and 2 piece turned into a one piece for 300 OTD. they just used all the parts from the old 2 piece.

 

Yeah it cost me $480 to get my front extended and rear shortened. So about $240 per shaft. A buddy recently bought a rear from a junk yard for 150. So I’m looking at 390 for a full rear spare, 150 for just the 2nd piece or $500 for a brand new one piece. Maybe what I should look into is having Tom woods make me a rear 2nd portion. Might be a similar cost and it will be new joints and dom tubing

 

Damn, did you call around to different driveshaft shops? That sounds really steep. I paid about $100 for a retube with thicker wall tubing on my spare.