3.4L supercharger

Larger injectors are definitely the way to go.
1995 injectors are 240, I have 2004 injectors 260, a small difference but these are working just fine with the tune and the 340. With these stock injectors I can pass emissions with out having to swap the injectors too,
The stock fuel pump definitely cannot keep up regardless especially if your dropping pulley size and turbo definitely won't do it.
If you got a haltech you would find so much more power in your setup, turbo.
My new power band 2-4.5k rpm’s is definitely a sweet change to have on tap all the time.

 

i seen your post. those are some amazing gains down low. haltec isnt in the budget for this truck. atleast not yet anyways. needs bodywork and a manual trans before i go much further with it.

 

I would reach out to Gabe, he knows the 3.4 better than anyone with the haltech with a remote tune

 

How about this. Has Gabe ever mentioned what it is in the OEM ECU that kills the low end torque that Toyota and Magnuson has scammed us out of? My guess almost purely timing.

 

with my scan guage during a hard 2nd gear pull the oem computer drops timing down to 12.0 before climbing back up slowly. and thats with the gm knock sensor

 

mine is the same under full boost. I want to know if reduce the amount of ignition gets pulled maybe 18-20 under full boost is safe

 

i guess we need to ask mr 1997haltech-taco what his timing looks like. thats part of the puzzle the other is obviously where it switches from open loop to closed loop. theres got to be a way around the open closed problem. so watching the boys tune on hondas on the pfi speed youtube channel. there is a company called Hondata that makes a computer chip that they install into the oem computers that allows them to control timing boost and complete tunability.

 

I can probably get you a photo of my timing map, it’s an aggressive table,
I know the knock sensor were modified in the tune setting too.
The timing is where the power is but has to be done correctly so you don’t blowup the motor.
3500rpms when tune correctly is your sweet spot

 

I think the issue here is that we don’t know where Toyota set the base timing.

What’s are seeing on the OBD2 devices is timing advance. Not the same thing. There’s still a few variables were blind to without actually being able to get into the OEM ECU to see how it’s set up and how it’s programmed to react to something like knock and load.

So while it would be cool to see it really dosen’t tell us much in comparison to the OEM ECU.

 

Here is my timing table, map.
We did not have time to finish the complete tune so the top rpm’s area is not fully tuned.
Next week the rest of the tune will be done.
Are you using the data logger to look at your tune runs?

 

im not sure how to do that. i was just watching the scan guage

 

These are the haltech timing numbers setup in the programming map for my tune

 

you are going to still use methanol for octane boosting/cooling right?

 

Possible for summer heat, I don't need methanol for octane with the haltech at this point unless I get a 2nd map for higheroctane and more timing, , not sure about that now because I'm very happy with the power I have

 

I don’t think a 160 will do much good. One of the issues with heat soak is the mechanical fan that’s tuned for a 200 degree temp instead of a cooler temp we want to see. So at low speeds the fan isn’t really trying to cool the radiator because it demands a higher temp before it starts to clutch.

that and as well as the water pump isn’t flowing at low speeds. Ive always noticed that my temp drops once moving. I’ll eve see a temp drop full boost, high RPM, and moving fast. Only because now the water pump is circulating the water faster and there’s more air over the radiator.

I know it’s frowned upon here in TW Im working on a electric fan setup right now. I’ll report back if I ever get around to actually doing the required work to make it happen. It’s going to take some custom work to get the shroud going going.

Goal is to have a more consistent 180 water temp.

 

It was around 70 degrees outside today im running a 2.2 pulley right now on 32" tires and had about 800 pounds in the bed. I drove around in the city about an hour then an hour home on mountain roads climbing about 2000ft in elevation and did not see water temp over 176 today. I got rid of the clutch fan and have an electric fan that is bolted inside my stock shroud with homemade brackets. the taller champion aluminum 3core radiator which is for a 4runner, Hayden 1040 engine oil cooler out of an f250, ... I really think a 160 thermostat would help me shed a couple more degrees

 

But is it worth it?

 

its worth it. eventually I am going back to my 2" pulley and dont want to smoke another supercharger because of heat. I still need to hook up the water methanol kit I got many months ago before I do that

 

Even with all that you have done I SERIOUSLY doubt you will be able to stay at 160 unless it’s winter.
When summer heat 70-100 comes it would not stay at 160.
160 would be hard to keep it there constantly.
As soon as you boost hard in summer too then it’s even harder

 

160 is borderline overcooling the motor 180 is the temp it wants to be at