Long Travel BS Thread

My JDFab +4 kit has me at 5.5 and 6 degrees of caster. Without heimed uppers. But the kit is built with the LCA pushing the wheel 7/8ths of an inch forward and then I have it pushed another 1/4 forward using the spacers on the LCA pivot kit.

 

Im cool with putting them together I just dont have oem shafts

 

I think even CVJ you'll need to mail in some OEM cores, but you can source them online pretty easily. LKQ on ebay is a great resource.

 

So without a tunable bypass shock, having long travel up front will pretty much be a mid travel setup with extra travel as far as ride quality and the ability to go faster offroad? I understand the rear setup is more important.

 

Not necessarily, @snowsk8air2 is a prime example of this. IIRC he doesn't have a secondary bypass up front. Took him years to dial everything in but it's possible if you put the work in.

 

As in tune the coilover?

 

Yes. If you're asking if long travel and a fabricated mid travel setup are basically the same besides track width and 2-3" of wheel travel, I guess you could say that. You could tune a mid travel kit to work better than a long travel kit that isn't tuned also. Just needs time / money to get it tuned.

 

Yeah I'm just trying to make sure that I understand that just because I spend $5,000 on a front suspension setup doesn't mean I'm going to be able to drive any faster on the beach

 

And that 5000 is just the Bare Essentials to have long travel from a reputable company

 

Rear setup is much more indicative of how fast you go in uneven terrain. You could drive fine on a beach (flat beach) in either form.

 

Yes, I’m on like my 4th or 5th revalve on the coil over and it’s pretty dang dailed in I think. That said I do finally have front bypasses on order because I want to go faster.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CPjHOqBg_sq/

 

Yeah Ive watched this vid alot! Looks sick and it looks like it functions well. Kudos

 

How much would you say you have in suspension front and rear? 10k in parts?

 

My guess is more. I’m into my front for about 12k doing all my own work and I think we have a similar/close setup. Prolly 7k into my rear. Soon to be more since I’m taking the dive on a 9 inch rear soon.

 

Including RCV front axles and the Tundra rear axle, probably closer to 20-25k. I stopped counting a while ago

 

Wow! Did you know what you wanted from the start and do everything at once, or did you change things over time?

 

I’ve been through all levels of suspension along the way. 5100’s, mid travel kings, rear shock relocation, front lt and then rear lt

 

Whose running a fuel cell? Getting ready to redo my bed and order an ibex fuel cell with a Gm fuel pump assembly. Looking at running all new lines to the motor. Anyone know what kind of fitting I need to plumb in new lines? I can get the gm to -6 push connect fittings and looking for the same thing on the toyota end. Motors a 3.4

Picture of what I plan to order

 

https://www.kartek.com/parts/fragol...ized-aluminum-an-metric-adapter-fittings.html

Don't order before you measure - these are good. Others were too long and wouldn't seal with only a crush washer. All Toyota fittings are 14x1.5mm - you may have male and female depending on your year.

Fuel cell build:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/jds-02-tacoma-build.126596/

 

So the 14x1.5mm is the correct fitting for the engine side? Whether it’s a male or female fitting?