Alabama thread!

Im just gonna redo my CMC and cut more out and probably beat back fire wall more for right now. Just need them to be street drivable for right now then ill clearance them for off-road later. Gonna pull max caster out of lowers. I have almost all the caster coming out of my SPC's right now to help with ride quality.

 

Anyone in HSV have some front shocks laying around they want to sell? Preferably something in the 3” lift and 650-700lb load range? Have a buddy out from out of town at the house that needs some

 

I've been making my list for the XJ for won tons, 4link front and rear, full hydro, LS, th400, and the new midnight metalworks tcase. Selling the prorock44 under the front will pay for most of the won tons.

 

I want one of the Midnight Metalworks transfer cases but $3500 it will be a while, to do one like you said with used axles and rebuild the motor, transmission and the rest new will run close to $30,000. It is sooooo expensive to build a good crawler.

 

Looking good, I used PVC and hose clamps too, works great.
I would check to see how far those heims will move with them laying flat, make sure they have enough range of motion to cycle as far as you need them to before welding the mounts on all the way.
When you cycle them do the entire axle (both sides at once) and then each side because it affects everything differently depending on how you cycle them. Don't ask me how I know, Also when you go to check clearance for the tires they will go higher with one side compressed than they will with both.

 

I was worried about them being flat, but was surprised how much range of motion they have especially with long links. It won’t come close to bottoming out. My replacement brackets didn’t show today so I guess I have another week of waiting. Might start working on the bed, but am hesitant to start before having a better idea of where I want to mount the coilovers. Won’t know how far forward and inward to tilt them until the links are tacked on so I can cycle it. Definitely learned the hard way cycling for the last set up that you have to do full tilt when you cycle not just both tires at the same time haha

 

After having to cut off two different mounts that was fully welded I have decided I will tack everything and check every possible scenario before fully welding again. I thought I was finished and installed the front drive shaft it needed another 1/4 inch to clear the link so had to cut it off order a new one and I moved it over one inch.

 

Yeah I’m paranoid about burning anything in fully until everything is fit and cycled. Especially worried about cutting the links wrong. That DOM wasn’t cheap haha did you thread your heims all the way in and cut based on that or leave some wiggle room?

 

Yes I thread my heims all the way in, I used 2 inch aluminum for my links, I used the PVC to get everything set up and measured the PVC to get the link lengths. I didn't have to do much adjusting after installing the links. Just get your caster angle right in the front and your pinion angle on the rear with the PVC links.

 

Nice. Those things are beef. Mine are 2x0.25” wall. I’m guessing the RH and LH threaded adapters just go on opposing sides of the links so nothing unscrews accidentally? How’d you figure how much forward to tilt the shocks or are yours mounted inside the frame? I’ve heard it doesn’t need to go past vertical at full droop, but that’s all I know. I want to pull all the travel I can without tilting so much forward that it creates dampening issues.

 

You have one left and one right so you can loosen the lock nuts and turn the link to adjust the length on the links without having to take them apart. Most everything I did I had to to based on space. I angled the shocks so they were as straight as possible all the way from fully compressed to fully extended. I have shock towers welded to the outside of the frame, right now my shocks are tilted a little at full extension with the shocks I have now but should be close to straight at full droop when ever I get coil overs, they will be longer. I will have more shock than i can use because with one one wheel compressed and one extended the tire will hit the shock if I go anymore droop. I could fix that if I cut everything out and move the back shocks inside the frame but I wanted to have room in the back to carry stuff and no openings because I want to be able to heat the cab, lol

 

one step at a time. First it'll be won tons and getting the frame and cage set. Then onto drivetrain. Good thing is I'm in no rush so I'll just collect parts and stuff as I can afford then do each step when I've got everything I need.

 

Morning guys! It’s been a minute. I took a break for awhile TW and TF. Sorry for the Like bomb on all the posts. I just got caught up!

Had a few truck updates - Alpha Rex lights (got a great deal), ARB compressor with Slee mount and scheduled ECGS appointment in two weeks.

 

Sup fellas

 

That is what I just did. I collected parts for a long time before I started on it.
It is crazy how much welding is involved, I used 2 1/2 eleven pound rolls of wire. Also spent a ton of money on nuts and bolts, never thought I would need that many nuts and bolts, 3/4 grade 8 stuff is crazy high.
There is a great machine shop about six miles from my house that sells me metal pretty cheap, cuts it the lengths I needed it and did all the machine work I needed for the dual transfer cases, they made me a couple drive shafts too. They do work for all the company's around here. When I ran one of Tysons Foods plants they did all my work, that is how I got to know all of them, so I got luck there. They have a 8 x 16 foot CNC cutter that cuts inch and a half like a knife.

 

What gears you getting?
You said ARB compressor are you doing lockers too?

 

You're coming up here to have them install?

 

FIFY, he's a prerunner so unless there's something happening that he's not saying just the rear.

 

4.88 and rear ARB locker

 

Yep.