2020 Tacoma OEM LED Headlight Megathread

The DRL relay is not needed and adds unnecessary complication. Access to "clean turn" without the DRL is all we need. Pin 1 on the 3 position connector can be used as direct DRL input without needing fused ignition nor access to in cab DRL trigger, it's 100% good to go since turn overrides it and the only time it's not properly representing DRL is if turns are active. Or, in other words, pin 1 will never be hot if DRL _or_ turn is not active and since turn overrides DRL, it's fine to supply DRL directly, it covers all of the bases we want. DRL does not come on when turn is active, it is 2nd in command.

The relays Johnny uses are effectively to "clean the turn" by using 87a to feed turn signals (by default) and switching the signal to DRL off 87 when it's a constant. That works fine but is perhaps a bit more than is actually needed b/c the DRL input is completely irrelevant whenever turns are active so we could just as easily direct connect DRL and leave pin 87 floating on those relays, it'd be the same behavior at the headlight.

Tapping EB1 might be a cool plan, not sure if Johnny has pursued that. Looks like it'd be 7 jumpers and 2 T's, a bit of work but only one per pair so potentially worthwhile as a cost savings and to add simplicity. Routing those two wires out to the headlights might be the only legitimate installation challenge.

 

That is achieved by the EB1 intercept.
Erase what you see and "know" about Johnny's gadget.
Look cleanly at the OEM circuit. You'll see my drawing is an almost duplicate. BTW, I worked a few already without the the intercept harness (EB1) due to owner not minding using posi-taps.

 

So when LOW beams are ON, DRL OFF, Dim is still with TAIL. SO all you need is the EB1...no PuppyGadget.

 

C'est la solution la moins chère... excellente !

 

Still cheapest harness is to snip all connectors and crimp terminals for the MX150 and the EB1 intercept harness:
SR/SR5

PRO and others with LED DRLs

https://www.corsa-technic.com/item.php?item_id=1005

 

Yes. The eb1 intercept is the key. The DRL can feed direct with no problem. No need for any extra there.

 

Sorry, getting up to speed here. I have used EB1 for SR to TRD conversions. It is very load sensitive, and at over 2A, it overloads the rear circuit.

@caribe makaira You can't just tap the DRL at the stalk unfortunately. It remains grounded when the Low Beams are selected. So you don't have a "Clean" DRL there. You would need to break that circuit when the Low beams are on. So that requires another relay. Also, you need to power that circuit constantly (at least when the ignition is on). So you have added a fuse tap and a relay, and assuming EB1 handles the load (which in my truck, it didn't), another tee that needs to be built. And to be built properly requires soldering or another creative solution as the 060 won't take two 16awg wires (or a 16 and a 20) so you either under size the wire feeding the rear turn signals (and given that the wire is that size for length as well as amperage, I would advise against it) or have to solder a tee together. Maybe milspec would work here, that I haven't tried. I chose solder on the ones I built. But these things are pretty labor intensive already. What time it takes to program and crimp timers to me was the better option. Also, I have had zero failures beyond a few that ended up needing resistors. Not to mention ease of install. Here are the directions I did for installing that EB1 tee if anyone is interested: SR/SR5 to TRD headlight conversion harness | Tacoma World Post #5 is just running that tee. You'll see it is longer than my whole post on how to install the SR to OEM LED harness I currently make. In my trials, replacing the rear with an LED still wasn't enough to overcome the load issue. That was just using a low resistance LED, nothing load equalizing. The OEM LED turn signals have resistors built in, that is why no resistor is required on the TRD conversions. The resistance of the OEM LED equalizes the load to that of a 7440 bulb (25W, or just at 2A). The reason I am including resistors on the new design going forward, is the SR is looking for 28W. Now, if you are anything like me, you are thinking "3W ain't nothing!". And generally, that is true. But it is enough of a difference to cause sporadic hyper flash.

@daveeasa We can grab EB1 for turns, but see above for why I opted not to do that. I can build these though.

On paper, these would work great with the internal logic of the headlight. In practice though, you will get one flash out of the turn signal, then nothing.

I am all for finding a better solution (and I actually have one, but given its complexity, I opted not to sale it. I would have to mark it up so much in order to make it worth my time fielding constant questions that it would more than wipe out any savings realized. But it acts perfect. I just don't think people would pay what I would charge for it), but I don't see these being viable reliable solutions. It may work in the occasional truck, but did not work on the two I tested it on, so that was a high enough failure rate that I wasn't interested.

I could make a "price sensitive" harness just using the stock front turns (the DRL needs to be turned off via the head unit) and a fuse tap to drive the DRL. But it won't work with the stalk, which was what I set out to do. It wouldn't be hard to install, and would probably be in the $80-100 range (I haven't done the math yet, but 2 male turn/DRL connectors, 1 male/female H9 tap, or a fuse tap for one of the low beam fuses, another fuse tap for an ignition source, and a relay). It would work like grille lights "work" in that the DRL would be on anytime the truck is on and the low beams are off. So if anyone is interested, by all means hit me up. I think I could definitely build the pair of these in less time than it take to make a single (not a pair, just one) harness that will work with the stalk.

Also, if anyone wants the design using the EB1, I will happily build it for you. I won't warranty it, and I don't take returns or legal responsibility, but I'll build it for you But if you want the solution that I have found to be a sweet spot for reliability and ease of install, I am working on a new batch of PuppyGadgets now

 

I will inform the wife I need to purchase an SR5 long bed for research purposes.

 

1F_30 is NOT the stalk. Where did you read I was using the stalk?

Another DRL I've used.

 

"Clean" turn output with own fuse.
C10 Intercept to 2nd Gen Towing Converter (no Stop Circuit Input [8])

 

Sorry, misread it. Still need to get turn signals to it. So you are left overloading EB1 or turning off the DRL. And if you turn off the DRL, it defeats the whole point of going to the ECU since it turns it off there

 

That works ( that is what I was describing in the cheap option), but doesn’t allow the stalk to control the DRL. It’s a step up from just the fuse tap like people use for grille lights though

 

It's like the dimming or off crutch...

 

Wow!

I can plug n play the harness without any worry of this DRL issue...yes?

You guys are talking some serious electrical stuff that I find fascinating and confusing at the same time. lol

Ed

****

 

Yes, TRD trim levels (sport, offroad, limited, pro, nightshade) are all “easy” to build a harness for. It’s the SR and SR5 trim levels which make the LED headlights a more expensive or more difficult upgrade. We are all trying to close the gap on that but nothing really fits the bill so current best practice is expensive and easy instead of cheap and more complicated.

 

They do look nice!

 

Yes they do

 

Mine are coming in Saturday and can't wait to swap them out with the halogens.

 

I've received mine from Sparks and they are in good shape, nothing broken. Was wondering what everyone is doing with their halogens? That's gonna take up a helluva lot of room to hold onto. I'm to the point where I need a storage unit from all the mods at this point. Are their people who want to buy the halogens?