Which 6.5" components?

Nice. That’s some expensive rear fills.

 

LOL. Yeah probably overkill. My kids ride in the truck quite a bit and watch movies on long trips so I'm convincing myself I "need" them.

 

“Honest honey! Honest!”

 

@hyper15125 @ZMan2k2
I looked at the Alpine PDX, JL XD and the Kenwood amps. I also looked around at others that are comparable but not big name brands.
I came across these two that caught my attention (both are 5-channel as I am looking at doing a component sub as well): Audison and Precision Performance
I did some research on both brands. The company behind Audison has designed this series of amps to compete with JL XD series at a lower price.
Supposedly, PPI is attempting to regenerate their brand in car audio and is using legit Japanese electronic components in their amps vs the cheap Chinese/Vietnamese most amp makers, including themselves have previously used.

Any thoughts on these and their specs compared to the amps your guys recommended?

 

If I had to pick strictly between those two I would go with the Audison just based on their current reputation. Im not familiar with the newer PPI stuff, havent used them since their A/B stuff in the early 2000’s.

if size isnt a concern there are other options that may be better. These are both larger amps that obviously arent going under the driver or passenger seat.

For me, I wanted to keep things out of sight so i needed something with a small footprint and decent power, thats why I grabbed the Alpine. If you are mounting on the back wall or somewhere with alot of room you have tons of options, just need to figure out how many watts per channel you need/want.

My original amp was 60x4+200x1. I found this lacking not only in volume but the sound quality degraded at higher volume levels. Always better to go with a little more power than you think you need. I wouldn’t do less than 75x4 if I were you, better to have and not need the extra wattage, youll just be unhappy and have to upgrade eventually like I did.

 

If size wasnt an issue for me I would buy this thing. Its says 60x4 for the main channels but they were under rated. Super clean sound quality, plenty of flexibilty with crossovers/filters built-in and has a sub channel. Its not brand new but the older good stuff.

Good seller too.

 

I agree with @hyper15125 . Of the two, Audison would be my choice.

Just to confuse you a little , I used to have a Sundown Audio SAZ-1500D when I deleted my rear seat and had a honkin’ 5cu ft box back there with 2 Sundown 15” U series subs. Loud and clear, but couldn’t hear a damn thing but the bass.

Anyways, I’ve been considering their 5-channel as well. Especially https://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-ampl...1700-5-2200w-rms-5-channel-car-amplifier.html

The numbers look great, and I trust them. They’ve made amps for 15 years, and they’ve always had good reviews.

 

Thanks for all that input guys. I’ll check out both of those amps and compare some specs. I’ll probably call someone at woofersetc to see what they say as well. They’ve typically given me pretty helpful info.

 

Welcome to the OCD club!

 

Lol. Glad I’m not alone.

 

+1 Audison. Mine sounds great, quiet and clear. I still think JL HD amps are the way to go if it fits your build.

 

One more option, I promise (I think)
ARC Audio X2

what are your guys thoughts?

 

Never dealt with the brand. One thing I noted when trying to compare is I could not find published SNR or THD numbers on any of their stuff. Weird.

 

Yeah that is pretty interesting. Thanks for your insight.

so far I am leaning towards the Audison amp

 

I noticed that too. As well, a couple things I saw, (1) low max amperage draw. Means that achieving rated output would strain the power supply, creating excess heat. (2) low RMS numbers. I’m one for headroom. Makes for easier adjustments if your not happy. Example, my front stage amp is capable of 200w, but I have it set to 125w. Similar for the sub amp. Rated to 1200w, set to 600. Buy once, cry once.

*edit* Before I closed the webpage, I looked one more time. Noticed the low input voltage. With most H/U being 4-5V output, you could clip the amp before you even start.

 

That makes a lot of sense and is something I would not have noticed