Reno and surrounding areas: Official spotted, BS, and meets thread

My experience smogging here is the farthest they look into your truck is to find the OBD port.

 

#truth. The dudes at 4th and McCarren plug you in and you're on your way in like 7 minutes.

 

can ask my friend who is a smog tech? He's only been doing it for a month or two at this point though.

 

I'm just curious how much they really poke around. I've never had anyone pop the hood in the 14 years I've been smogging vehicles here. Would suck to install long tube headers and then have it become a problem.

 

from buddy
"If its 96 or newer and less than 8499 lbs nobodys gonna check for the cat. We don't have to. And as long as the cats connections are secure to the exhaust and theres no obvious holes your fine. 96 and newer all we do is connect to the obd port and check for monitors being on. We don't check anything else except smoke"

hopefully that helps?

 

Very helpful. Thanks.

Looks like I need to pick up a high flow fuel pump, headers, and a y pipe to go with the supercharger.

 

I have been running catless headers for the last few years with non foulers without issue...but we must not forget how quickly we are becoming our western neighbor's doppleganger

 

Yes, those dudes are quick. In and out in under 10 minutes if no one is in front of you. No visual, no sniffer. If the computer says everything is good, you pass.

When we first moved here I had a Matrix with a failing cat (after 189k miles, the nerve). Swapped in a junkyard cat to get the CEL turned off, did the drive cycles, took it for smog, and no problems.

 

Sounds like when I did my o2 sensor last year

 

Thankfully I found Reno Driveline & Gear Service, which is in Sparks at 1325 Glendale Ave. and their phone number is 775-331-4500. Had it done in just a few hours (no second trip needed) and did an outstanding job for a reasonable rate. They didn't cut or drill anything out and made tidy work of the UCA bushings, which I think can be fairly difficult to press out.

I made a list of a dozen auto repair and machine shops in the Reno area and called each one—nearly every single one referred me to Reno Driveline & Gear. And now I know why.





Killed some time while they were working and can also highly recommend: Coffeebar at 682 Mt. Rose St., Sierra Cyclesmith at 7007 South Virginia St. (knowledgeable techs and reasonable rates--set up tubeless tires in an hour) and the Total Wine & More at 6671 South Virginia St.

 

Excellent, glad you got it sorted.

 

I'm horked on my D/S axle seal replacement.

1. Damn CV won't seat fully on the hub side. About 3/16" of an inch to go and it won't budge. It's fully seated on the differential side. I was able to push it in without much hassle. Can the rest of the CV be 'sucked in' once I snug down the 35mm axle nut?

2. Bigger issue - anyone got a 35mm axle nut they don't need? Hosed the first thread on it when I was pounding out the CV from the hub. Dolan is useless. Carson is telling me a few days (not bad), but sorta need this thing back on the road Monday. I'll pay in beer if you got one handy this weekend.

 

Long shot but is fastenal open today?

Edit: that's probably a dumb thing for me to suggest

 

Yes, on the knuckle side the axle will fully seat with the nut once tightened.
I just looked around my shop and I've got every piece of a Tacoma CV except for the nut. Did you happen to try Napa over here on Glendale?

 

@la0d0g Negative, They're Mon-Fri

 

On 1., I just did this yesterday and the axle nut sucked it in right into the hub such that the inner seal of the hub and the dust cover of the CV axle are mated.

On 2., Dolan does suck but they got one of the wheel bearing spacers for me in 10 hours last week, so the prices are wild but they might have it by Monday if you call before 3:30. Why there’s only one Toyota dealer in the area is beyond me, the metro area must have enough people to support another or three. Maybe you already called Dolan though and it’s a long wait.

 

Tried Napa on Parr, tried a couple O'RLYs - no dice.

 

On 1, that's good to know, thank you. I'll hand-tighten on the new one easy and see if it starts to close up before I put the torque wrench to it. I flipped the nut (shoulder facing out) before I pounded the axle out. I guess today was my "lucky" day. I've saved threads with small files before, but the first thread rolled over. Reversed (shoulder out), it will thread until I hit the bad ones near the shoulder, so the axle threads are at least OK. I think.

On 2, I've been on hold w/ Dolan for an hour now. I may clean up and head down there to ask in person. I still have a little time. Carson is my alternate. So far, I have found them to be better in terms of parts. It's 90 minutes of my life there and back or so, but lesson learned. With luck, I'll have her back on the trails by next weekend.

Getting the CV back into the diff was wayyyyyy easier than I though. I got it started, tapped it in on the flats with a pry bar most of the way, and then just shoved the circlip past where it needed to snap over. Compressed the outer joint, and then shoved like I was trying to get to the last beer on Earth. *pop*

Hopefully I got the seal set up the way it should be. The outer lip that protrudes is about flush with the body of the differential. Basically it matches the picture I took of the old seal, but it may stick out 1mm more. I read that too deep is worse than not deep enough, so crossing fingers. The old seal was a PITA to get out with a seal puller, but it finally submitted to my will.

Course for anyone that ever runs across this telling of my misadventures, I can't recommend a good 1/2" drive impact enough. It saves so much time and energy.

 

Oh, and thank you for looking. I appreciate the effort to help me out!!

 

Maybe crossed wires, but Dolan parts is M-F, too. Seriously, WTF.