Drivers CV Axle "pulling apart"

Seen this hundreds of times , not only with 4x4,s but front wheel drive cars as well . This is a very common issue . Most of the time ,the aftermarket hires kids that have no experience in the automotive world to build these axles . Lack of training could end up costing you as the purchaser a lot of hard earned cash .
All the axles and shafts are the same length . Its about bleeding the air off and burping the grease properly .As an exapmle , try to eat 15 cans of beans and make an attempt to walk without creating excessive noise from your rear end . Same thing is happening here .

99% of the time , the axle boots are Not burped properly at the factory .The issue has essentially created a hydraulic air lock. Your inside boot was clamped way outside the normal working conditions for that boot . Not your fault !!
When the constant velocity boots are not burped correctly , the axle can either be too long or too short . Judging by the pictures , your axle is too short . When you turn corners , the inner plunging constant velocity axle needs to lengthen but because your clamps were not installed correctly , a suction is created within the axle boot causing the axle to pull out of the differential
As mentioned above , a fresh set of axle clamps should cure this . When you remove your old parts , always match up with the new .

 

Unfortunately the old axle when pulled out was falling apart so it was tough to confirm 100% on length size but they did look as close as i could possible tell.

Youre saying that the axle is too short but can be fixed by replacing the boot clamps? How do i properly setup the boots with the new clamps?

 

With the drivers side jacked up , cut the small clamp on the inner boot , then turn the drivers side tire all the way to the left and then all the way to the right .
You will then see the bellows on the boot relax . Then put the new clamp on . The boot is going to move closer to the differential
You dont have to cut the large clamp , just the small one . Better yet , stick a tiny screwdriver under the small axle clamp to allow the boot bellow to relax

 

Thanks for the info!

Are you saying I can stick a small screwdriver under to help the boot now? or to do that after the smaller clamp is cut off to help it relax?

 

P/n #434300407084

These are Toyota remanufactured axles. Should be around $115 each.

https://www.oemgenuineparts.com/oem-parts/toyota-remanufactured-shaft-assembly-front-434300407084

 

Its not going to be easy getting a small screwdriver under the clamped portion of the boot but I have succesfully done this in the past . Obviously you are being carefull not to accidently put a small hole in the boot with the screwdriver. Yes , you can do it now

 

sorry this is to relieve some pressure right now until i can get a new clamp and fix this?

 

Yes sir . Cutting the small clamp will get you mobile again because that boot is going to relax . When you turn corners after the clamp is cut , that CV joint will no longer pull out of the diff .

 

OP, having replaced many garbage after market CV axles I realized years ago that OEM Toyota is the only way to go. You can pull one from a wrecked junk yard Tacoma, just make sure you’re pulling it from the non-impact side if there’s front end damage. As for sucked in boots, it’s not always just a pressure issue, the boot may actually be getting chewed up by the bearings.

 

It would be nice to see how the boot is clamped on the drivers side . If the clamp on the drivers side is causing the boot to stretch , you could also be shortening your axle from that side as well . While you have the drivers side jacked up , move the tire all the way to the left and then all the way to the right viewing the outer axle boot . The bellows on the boot need to be relaxed through the complete motion . If the bellows on the outer axle boot look like the bellows on your inner axle boot , you will have to cut the small clamp on the outer boot as well .

 

I will try a few of these things.

Are you meaning to cut the smaller clamp on the diff side (where the issue is) and drive it like that?

 

Yes sir .
You wont lose much constant velocity grease driving to the store to get a clamp

 

Ill then need a tool to get the new clamp put on?

 

You could always take your truck to a shop . Most local garages already have the tool or ...................See post 14 .

 

I was able to vent the boot a little bit with a screwdriver. It looks quite a bit more normal now. I moved the wheels all the way both directions and the boot on the wheel side looked good and didnt have any sucking in like the inner one. Im going to try to get an appointment this week to have a better look at it

 

And @gearcruncher , why can’t you use a regular stainless steel worm (hose) clamp? Will it cause vibrations? Or get loose? I did that on a torn rack and pinion bellows. I know its not the same but curious why it wouldn’t work.

 

ive used a regular clamp, problem is you need a skinny clamp. There’s a few guys on eBay and Amazon that sell them but never saw any locally.

$13 (SET OF FOUR CLAMPS) CV Axle Repair Clamps Kit for Leaking Boots after Lift Kit FITS FJ Cruiser, Tacoma, 4Runner, Tundra

https://www.amazon.com/CLAMPS-Repair-Leaking-Cruiser-4Runner/dp/B07MRCK38W

 

I cant say that I have seen a vibration created by a gear clamp . I think its a fantastic idea to get him out of a pinch

 

I was thinking about this last night. When I vented the small clamp on the inner joint boot, I noticed that where the small clamp sits there is a groove on the middle axle where the boot/clamp sit in.

If it is an issue with length, then wouldn't getting the boot properly vented and re-clamped not fix the issue?

 

not necessarily. If the Clamps were assembled with the CV tulip pushed all the “in”, then expanding could have caused the vacuum to be drawn. Ideally the clamps would be set with the CV in the middle of its travel range which is the method gear cruncher was trying to suggest I believe.