Long Travel BS Thread

bigger threads like an acme thread could double as fins. Just not practical or even close to being cost effective even for race teams when you could easily just make the shock bigger. Also i don't think it'd work all that well as much as people think. It'd be difficult to regulate the temps cause the temps at high and low speed would change so suddenly it would affect the valve tuning. Would work great if the temps ramped up evenly as did air speed around the shock but when are offroad surfaces ever that consistent?

 

Yeah overall probably just not worth the $$$

 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZne32bJgfR/

 

Wait until you see his new build

 

Are there any general rules of thumb to follow when setting up coilovers mounted to the top of the axle? I’ve read conflicting information. I’d like to lean a bit forward and a bit inboard, but don’t want to go too far and mess up the dampening. I’ve seen some guys run it straight up and down and some angle pretty steep on leaf set ups to clear the bed. I am not limited by space.

 

Shock positioning will play some roll in travel as well. Another thing you gotta play with.

 

@Snowy @Basikbiker

 

With my 3.5 kit and 35’s and adv +6’s I still had to cut a lot out of the fender on the backside. And that’s with JD’s lca mount kit pushed all the way forwards.

 

Just tip the top in a few degrees, don’t put them on a 40* angle forward/backward however they will fit, and valve accordingly for the motion ratio is the cliff notes version.

The longer version is that ideally they are tipped in enough at the top so that at full bump/flex they don’t cross a 90* angle to the frame. Once you cross 90*, you start to lose effective spring rate and wonky things start to happen. In reality it’s not the end of the world for it to happen at the end of bump but you don’t want them at 90* on flat ground because you’ll lose spring rate super fast and it’ll turn to mush as soon as you flex.

Front to back angle you can lean them a fair amount (10-15*) with no problem at all. Just need a bit more valving to compensate for the non 1:1 motion ratio. You can go more, and if you look at some trailing arm stuff especially, they do, but if you go too far, you will run into issues with heat in the oil or breaking a shaft unless you’re running real race type of shocks that can deal with bigger motion ratios. If you go too far angled you’ll run into some non-linear spring rate problems too. A good rule of thumb is to get the coilover perpendicular to the links at full stuff. When the links are flat, the coilover should be 90* perpendicular to them. So if the links are on a angle to start with, you’ll need more angle on the shock to compensate as the axle swings on the arc of the links. This is another time where packaging is going to dictate some compromises in the real world though.

Not sure if my explanations help or hurt

 

I was just referring to the glass fenders, I think it’s common knowledge that 35’s dry hump your inners like an excited chihuahua

 

Yeah I had to cut my advanced fenders.

 

Let me see if I’m understanding it correctly. Tilt in at the top towards the center left to right enough that at full tilt the lower shock mount doesn’t swing past the upper mount (90 degrees) essentially “flopping over”

angle them forward (towards the front of the truck in my case) enough to keep the lower mount from passing the top mount when following the arc of the links on droop. Don’t angle much more than that.

did I get the general concept or totally miss the boat?

 

you had to cut +6 fenders to clear 35’s ?

 

yup

 

what front kit do you have ?

 

He's got a Dirt Designs kit w/ more up-travel if IIRC

 

yeah but the top wasn’t the problem. The backside in front of the door was. Didn’t have to trim the top.

 

More up travel still will create more cutting because the center line of the wheel rises higher. I had to cut a bunch on mine due to that. Do have an engine cage or are you still running sheet metal inners?

 

I’ve just got a piece of 1.75 for an engine cage for now. And I’ve got custom made inner liners…though the 35’s still run a tiny bit on them.

 

I think most kits would cycle more if it wasn't for the upper hitting the top of the inner fender (may be right about that but haven't been looking 2nd / 3rd gen builds since 4-5 years ago) and if you built custom inners they might allow the upper to clear higher.