1st Gen Long Travel Chat

I've got a solo +3.5 kit that uses the modified tundra cv's and I've noticed the same weird bind on the inner joint. Had it on a brand new set of axles from CVJ and an oem set from the junkyard, all with the inner thin metal lip cut off. Definitely seems to be binding in the inner plunging joint somehow. I noticed it first when I was wheeling, anytime the front drooped slightly from ride height and was under load it had a terribly annoying clicking noise sounding like it was about to explode and was definitely the inner joint. I ended up breaking the inner cage and when I took it apart there were marks of binding from the balls I believe (I'd have to double check it was a while ago). The modified junkyard one I threw in still does it very slightly but not nearly as bad. If anyone's got an explanation that would be awesome, I'm just not sure what would cause it to bind.

 

Interesting. That's what I saw as well when I degreased the inners and played around with them. I didn't see any cracks or deformation on the cage, so I'm clueless. Fortunately, 2 of the 3 axles I have seem to have very limited binding or none at all, but one seems real bad. Good enough for a spare I guess.

I might try modifying another set if I have any issues with these current ones, before I just shell out 1500 bucks for brand new OEM axles from Toyota or CVJs.

 

What’s your limit on the solo kit? For total chaos it’s the uniball upper so my cv isn’t binding at all at droop

 

I ran the binding CVJ's for several months to see what would happen since it wasn't too big of a deal and I was pretty likely to break a CV anyway. You should be totally fine to run them and using the bad one as a spare is perfect. I'm not sure if my inner cage broke due to the binding or from it cracking on a previous wheeling trip since it broke snow wheeling with the front unlocked being super chill. IMO I wouldn't buy from CVJ again just because I have no problem running modified junkyard axles since they are a fraction of the cost and I'm likely to break them anyway.

 

Also the upper uniball misalignment hitting the cup and the inner tie rod is basically maxed at that point so strapping it correctly takes care of it. My CV doesn't bind at full droop either, just the inner cv joint does its binding thing for a small range of motion just beyond ride height.

 

Really? So not even droooping? Is cvj not that good? I’m looking for a spare manual LT cvs so

 

I have manual hubs too so that's why I went with CVJ since there aren't many options for them. The CVJ axles are fine besides the binding thing but the oem Tundra axles do the same so idk. I started building my own LT manual hub CV's it's not very hard. The Tundra axle shaft has the same spline count as the manual hub tacoma so it's just a matter of swapping the outer cv joints.

 

Guess I'm taking another trip to the junkyard if I have problems then. I mean, 3 backup CV axles is fine right?

 

So your cvj bind? I mean I have total chaos cvs their basically tundra modified

 

You can never have enough lol

 

Ya my CVJ's and the modified oem tundra axles seem to bind a little on the inner joint. The CVJ's are also just modified tundra axles.

 

What the best fiberglass company to go with?

01-04 Tacoma
TC +3.5" kit
Rear axle is going to be 64" WMS

Looking for clean simple fenders and bed sides. I will have a GFC on the bed soon but I can beef up the bed sides when I install the Fiber glass.

Thanks!

 

By now with all the newer trucks out there to maintain products in high volume for, and with low volume of our trucks being built now-a-days and the attention paid to them proportionately less also, none. I've had AFC 6" fenders which fit nicely on the door and hood lines, but were nowhere close to fitting factory mounting holes under the headlights. I ended up making mounts for them anyway since the tiny fasteners really aren't much holding them on if they lined up either way.







I have a 68" wide axle so the only thing wide enough was Fiberwerx 8" bedsides. The first picture shows how poor they fit behind the cab on the passenger side. The driver's side is perfect.




Tail light fitment was ok, nothing to write home about though.



Highly recommend making some of these mounts that mount to the bed where the factory mounts are.



If you're looking to strengthen your bedsides, by drilling out the spot welds, I was able to fit a piece of 1x1 square tube with some nuts welded in to mount my bedsides.



The best way to preserve your bedsides imo is to mount things from the frame though. Here's where I drilled out the 6 factory frame mounting points for the bed to accept 1/2" grade 8 bolts to build off.




The only other companies are McNeil and Hanneman. I bought a Hanneman hood and while it's nice for the price, it's nothing fancy.

 

New topic
Picking coils.

is 50 lbs really that big of a difference when picking coils, lets say 600 over 550 or the other way around

 

I started with 600lb coils and immediately jumped down to 500 and the difference was really noticeable since the single cab is pretty light. I then went down to 450's and I could notice a difference but it wasn't drastic if that helps. I should add I noticed the changes the most over small chattery bumps and the amount of body roll.

 

That helps
I have 600 coils and danm its stiff so want to figure out if 550 or 500 will work best

 

How much preload are you running with the 600’s?

 

I'm starting with a 18" 500 spring with my kit. Hopefully keeps the ride hight I'm looking for, but keep the ride nice and soft.

 

Interesting - will be interesting to see how much you need to crank them down.

 

I couldn't imagine going lighter. I want a stiffer coil. I have a ton of body roll with my current springs. Or I need more valving.