Manual proportioning valve question

This is made for inverted, so am I correct in thinking I wouldn't need to make any fitting adjustments?

$55 Wilwood Proportioning Valve, 3/8-24 in Inverted Flare Female Inlet, 3/8-24 in Inverted Flare Female Outlet, Adjustable 100-1000 psi, Knob Type, Aluminum, Each, Natural

https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-260-...906-8-1-2283--&vehicleName=2001+Toyota+Tacoma

 

Never mind. Light dawned on marble head....

 

Your Not a Marble Head!

It is a mechanical valve it does not care how it goes.

You will need adapters from the valve to the Toyota Flare fitting size.

It might be easier just to make adapter lines.

Install it at the Master cylinder and Run new brake line to the tee at the rear axle

Plug the lines at The front where the LSPV goes to.

 

You should reach out to @Speedytech7, he was just mentioning this the other day. See below.

 

That valve is like mine (and probably like all of them since metric has no support) It's a 3/8-24 inverted and our brake lines are M10x1.0 inverted. I just used a short conversion line and a long conversion line to fit mine where I wanted it. My local hydraulic shop made the soft line for me.

 

I have helped someone before, however this is my first time working hands on "alone" (with TW guidance) with fittings/lines, etc.

Since the provided fittings with the one I ordered are for a 3/16 line ("Valve also includes two fittings to adapt to 3/16 inch brake line"), I can just use those, correct? Or is this a no because it's a 10mm?

So I finally went & actually looked at the MC. I mean I've seen it before, just really looking this time.
*disregard - Mine states 13/16th on it. Is that of any significance? (Just adding that because you put 10mm line).

 

Ixnay on the brain thing with the 13/16th thing. Mind went to 3/16th.... Forget I put that.... Never happened....

 

Front range off-road has the kit with standard to metric fittings to make this plug and play.
https://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/proportioning-valve-kit/

 

I think I am complicating this.
Basically it's plug & play (adapters, etc.) except removing the return line & plugging it. Then connecting the rear line, correct?

But what did you mean by this?

 

OMG! Never mind. Totally brain messing up. It's from complicating it.... I was thinking you meant plug the lines where the new valve was. Made no sense of course..... Sorry....

 

It's not plug and play, I pulled an entire return line and modified the existing rear lines

 

I did add those two things in. & I didn't mean to simplify in the sense that it was easy. Just that I am complicating it.

 

Hi,

I have been doing some research through youtube and the forums. I am actually going to purchase the valve 260-12627 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/..._HtZGL1r28nk5cZNAnHW7q-bpX4UmK4hoCAYsQAvD_BwE

which has M10x1.0 in and out but is for bubble flares.
I was then going to use some adapters that I found that go from M10 bubble to M10 inverted, then use the existing brake lines at their current location.

Does anybody have any input on the flare adapters and/or the location of the valve being under the bed instead of under the hood?

Also, my main question: Does this valve need to be bled like the Toyota LSPV? If not, which direction do you turn it to bleed the rear brakes (I know its either all the way clockwise or counterclockwise)

Thanks

 

I didn't have much luck finding adapters locally, so I just went to town on Amazon getting those & under the hood braided lines (which you won't need).

There is no bleeder on it, so no. No bleeding it.
I imagine if you are going to have it closed at all, you may want to open it fully to bleed the rears? Makes sense. Then set it where you want it. I have mine open all the way. According to the manufacturer (I called them), this is 40%. & it should have arrows (looks like it does in the pic) letting you know which way's opened/closed. Hope that helps.....

 

thanks, yeah I found multiple videos (for example this https://youtu.be/fODdQivfEw8?si=Eqf8-eL5CdpxZXC8 @5:30)

that put it under the bed, remove the return line, and just insert the existing input/output lines with adapters. I assume all the way “open” would be all the way toward “more brake”

how do you like this product?

 

No problems with it.
The braking is good. I also replaced the shoes & hardware. But still, it’s nice to actually see a good flow of fluid when I bleed the brakes & I attribute that to the valve & new lines. Peace of mind.