Ugly Gold 4 door Hoor SAS-LS

FROR, that was the deciding factors. More coverage

 

Well if I decide to do that down the line for whatever reason on top of my rear boxing, i'll have to swap those out for my TG ones.

 

idk why they would tell me that. Kind of sketch. Prob just didn’t want to sell to me because I didn’t buy their adaptor. I told the guy I’ve been waiting for 5 months for an mc09 and had to go elsewhere cause they still can’t even give me a restock date.

 

Ran into the same thing. Initially called and asked them about running their gears in a TG adapter and they said it won't work.
Called back later and ordered a coupler from them but didn't mention anything about it going into a mixed setup like that. No real issues so far.

 

Before spoonman got banned, he compared the TG and MC coupler. Big difference. You should be able to find it in his build page. He made a video as well.

 

Yea I have a couple pictures comparing both of mine as well. Overall dia and length are the same, but it came down to the spline profile.
The TG one would go on the MC gears kind of, but needed a rubber mallet and needed the assistance of a gear puller to get off.
Although both of them for me didn't have a "slip-on" fitment onto the 26 spline tranny output. Had to use a metal sledge to get that guy on there.

TG left and MC right.
I believe this side is the tranny output side. Similar looking cut


CB side:
taller and more beveled teeth on the TG one. Which definitely contributed to the tight fitment on the MC gears

 

These days, I feel like MC doesn't even know what's going on over there. Their public relations are down the tube. Just mosey over to the RCLT thread and its a mile long MC bash. (although recently is a dirtlifestyle bash )

 

Yeah, marlin needs to get it together or just sell the rights to the cnc housing to someone who is going to be able to make it.

Saw that but I didnt really go through how the dirt lifestyles bashing started but that guy is a really good fabricator and does nice work. Too bad he is doing 3rd gen shit.

 

Im gonna order tomorrow. I don't want to have a floppy dick coupler.

 

Finally got the axle prepped and threw it under truck to get an idea of where to start. I set it at 3 degrees based on some things I read but that just doesn't seem right. It is way lower than where the t case flange will be.

 

Got the new shackles but I burned my 9/16 bit up so got stuck before I could swap them on truck. I got the two 3/4 holes done thankfully.

Ruff stuff 6" with a 5/8 offset.

 

It sucks he got banned. He was super active building stuff and making changes. His tacoma was sick too.

 

Isn't it 3° off centerline of the driveshaft at ride height?

 

Prob. Idk wtf I’m doing with this as of now. I’m putting the trans housing in empty so I can remove it easy and gonna bolt t case up and see where I’m at with the flange.

I still don’t know what kind of shaft I should run yet.

 

Source: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/91758
"According to Bickel, a ladder-bar suspension normally requires degree of pinion angle, a four-link requires 1-2 degrees, and a leaf-spring suspension requires up to 6 to 7 degrees."
"Ray Currie of Currie Enterprises, which specializes in rearends and rear suspension systems for race, street, and off-road applications, agrees that pinion angle is a pretty simple (theres that word again) concept. He explains that a universal joint is designed to handle between 1 and 3 degrees of pinion angle. This is a safe operating range for the U-joint"
"In all examples, were talking about negative pinion angle, i.e., the pinion is nose-down in relation to the driveshaft."

"According to Currie, the average car crafter should strive for between 1 and 3 degrees between the tailshaft of the transmission and driveshaft, and 1 to 3 degrees between the driveshaft and pinion. Furthermore, the two angles should be nearly equal (between 1 and 3 degrees), but always opposite (see crude diagram)."



I set mine to -2° when I setup my SUA.

 

So we left the shocks off, threw the wheels on the axles, strapped the axle to the leafs and then put it on the ground. Set the angle with a digital angle finder and then tacked my perches on. Used a floor jack under the 3rd member to position the angle up or down.

 

Damn, thanks man! Gonna go spend some time on it after work.

 

That’s if you’re running regular U-joints. A CV joint needs the axle flange pointed up at the output with a few degrees of slack to account for axle wrap

 

Are 1st gens on CV driveshafts?

 

a double cardan joint after the intermediate DS after the T-case, so yes.