DIY: Replacing the Bearings in the Idler & Tensioner Pulleys

Thanks for write up. after I got done replacing all 4 I have slop in # 2 pulleys . you can move them tiny tiny bit. wiggle side to side. The #1 and tensioner are solid. Bearings are right, checked 3 times. anyone else have this happen?

 

From what I can tell, these parts - the 3 pulley + belt - and the tensioner assembly, seem legit.

Can anyone else chime in?

 

^For Future use^

 

Subd.
about time to do this project Thnx OP

 

Future

 

Added note of new bearing vendor that appears to sell authentic Koyo bearings in the right size without having to buy any adapters or reducers. For idler bearings #1 and #2; and also bearings for the tensioner pulley.

Note (2/7/22): RodaVictoriaUSA bearings appear to sell authentic Koyo bearings in the right size, as 6302RMX. They sell on Amazon as RDV Bearings.

 

Confirm: I have bought other bearings from Roda and have received what appear to be authentic bearings.

 

Anyone have a Tensioner to sell?
Bought the bearing, pulleys and belt, locked out the tensioner and it has some jerky/rough travel. figuring it is spent after ~15 years and almost 200k miles.
Can confirm the aforementioned Nachi bearing for the tensioner pully, also.

 

@Chuy

Any reason this wouldn’t be a viable option for the tensioner pulley?
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...ouble-shielded-17mm-bore-x-40mm-od-x-17-5mm-w

Here is the 5203-2ns for reference . I don’t see any difference?
https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/...-sealed-17mm-bore-x-40mm-od-x-17-5mm-w?ref=42

 

@TnShooter The pictures are the same but the bearings are different. Note that one has a suffix ending in “zz”. That means the bearing is protected by metal shielding as oppose to rubber/plastic seals. Generally, you don't want “zz” bearings in an engine bay because they are not as water resistant as the rubber/plastic bearings. On the plus side they cost less and spin with less resistance. But the shorter service tradeoff is not worth it.

 

Thanks for pointing that out.
I don’t know much about bearings.

I am getting cold morning “squeaks” and looking at my options.
Thanks again

 

I just replaced the bearing in the tensioner pulley. After installing the old pulley with a new bearing, I could only torque so much as the tensioner started to move above 15-20 lbs. I wonder if this is why Toyota won't sell just the tensioner pulley?? Because it's difficult to torque down.

How did you keep the tensioner from moving while you torqued it to 30 or 39 lbs? There were too many things in the way for me to move the ratchet far enough.

 

@Jason AZ I dont remember how I did it exactly. I do remember you get a little more leverage at certain angles. You can also use blue threadlocker for more peace of mind.

 

Thanks! I should say that I'm working on an 03' 4Runner. Maybe I don't have as much room. I am able to get a socket and ratchet in there but once my torque wrench gets in the 15-20 range, the tensioner starts to move. I would need the tensioner to be fully compressed in order for it to not move. I tried it with the belt on, thinking that the tensioner would already be compressed some what. No luck there either.

Anyway, I'm not too worried about it. I got it as tight as I could. It's confused me why Toyota wouldn't sell the tensioner pulley by itself. Not being able to torque it enough/properly was the best reason I could come up with.

Thanks for the detailed write up and updated notes. Your notes and the following comments were the best I could find. My tensioner pulley is no longer chirping.

 

@Jason AZ And did you attempt from the bottom? You would need to remove any engine guard and maybe a bracket, but it makes it very easy to access the idlers and reinstall the belt.

 

@Chuy I did it from the bottom. I had good access to remove all the idlers, replace and properly torque them. It was the tensioner pulley I had an issue with torquing.

My truck is an '03 4runner with 252k miles on it. I'm wondering if the tensioner is a bit worn and it's taking less force to move it.

I've got about 110 miles on it since I pressed in the new bearing. For the most part it's better but I'm still getting the occasional chirp on start up. It makes me think the tensioner might need to be replaced. I'm going to keep an eye on it.

 

@Jason AZ With that many miles, the grease may be starting to dry out in other bearings - water pump, PS, alternator, etc.

 

Just to confirm what you guys are saying. I have had the complete tensioner assembly for about a year. I recently replaced my belt and am getting the chirp/squeal. Researching replacing the complete assembly it looks to be a pita. But it looks like I can unbolt the pulley from the new assembly and bolt it one the old one and call it good? Other than the poster above having an issue torqueing it to spec?

 

I initially did just the pulley on the tensioner (remember its reverse threads) torqued it to spec (believe it was like 29 ft lbs) and I guess messed it up as it started squealing. Ended up removing that, replacing the whole tensioner assembly but yes its quite a pain in the butt. You've got to get the battery, alternator out of the way, and AC compressor (doesn't have to be disconnected, just unbolted and swung out of the way), and various other junk in the way. So if you can do just the pulley, its a big time saver

 

Did you press a new bearing into the old pulley?