Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Is the hub bore the same as a d60? Just seeing if it’ll require new wheels or having my current ones bored out.

 

I asked Harry the same question yesterday when I was on the phone with him. His answer was his wheels are toyota type wheels and they fit. But he would double check on the bore size. I also made sure that the new brakes and rotors would work with 16 inch wheels and he assured me that they would.

 

3” hub bore

 

Gotcha!

Much appreciated!

 

On a side note. I am putting my front and rear bumpers on soon and can’t decide on powder coating vs paint. For guys in the west what’s your preference? It might be different in the East with the weather and road differences. My thought process is ease of touch ups and cost. I’ve heard guys just do the rattle can bed liner which holds up well but not sure how it’s going to look. I can’t decide. I honestly would like to color match my bumpers in powder coat if touch ups wouldn’t be a nightmare. But I do actually want to use my truck so trying to be realistic on things getting scratched and dinged up. Just curious on what most guys do on here?

 

@Iferrara I love rattle can bed liner, I put it in all the armor I build and my flares. It's quite durable if you do proper prep, it touches up super easy, and I love how it looks.




In the second pic you can see the body damage I got sliding on a rock, but the bedliner shrugged most of it off.

 

I just did the Rustoleum rattle can bedliner on my bumpers a couple weeks ago, looks great. Basically just spray paint with some texture to hide the blemishes/a hair stronger than paint. A little harder to wash and get the dirt stains out than a glossy or satin black paint. Isn't too expensive either, think it was like $10 a can and I used a can and a half on front, rear, and sliders.

 

It all boils down to how its done. Powder is far superior to paint for this application, but only if done properly. Blasting, Chem treatment, Primer and top coat. But, youre going to pay.

 

Rattle can semigloss black, no primer, maybe wire wheel if you’re feeling fancy, barely let it dry before embedding your fingerprints into it, scratch it as much as possible during install, touch up without taping anything off. Cover in dirt ASAP.

 

Thanks guys. I think I’ll just try out the rattle can bed liner. Don’t want to pay 600 dollars for powder coating when it’s probably going to get scratched and dinged up anyways.

 

In our shop we have a deal with a local powdercoater and they sand blast and coat all of our stuff. We use what's called "polyarmor" powder coating, which has more of a bed liner type texture. It is way more durable than standard powder coat, and can self heal with a heat gun. It's pretty insane stuff, and they do it all for a reasonable price.

Powder coat is rated in "salt hours" as far as I understand, and most powder coat was rated for 3-4000 hours. This polyarmor stuff is more like 9-10,000 hours. And it doesn't chip.

Don't know how common it is though

 

Sounds similar to what BAMF uses. It’s a nice feature to just be able to take a torch to it to fix some trail rash.

 

I got my front and rear bumpers powdercoated because I used to work at a PC shop. They look great and have held up super well. Touching it up can be tricky though if you go with a textured more durable finish. I've just left the bashed areas on my armor exposed mostly because I don't care enough to try and touch it up. It's very resilient to anything less than dragging the full weight of the truck over hard surfaces though. Much more so than a regular spray paint job I would say.

One thing to keep in mind though, is if you plan to modify them down the line at all. At one point I was thinking of doing a swingout, but the PC really prevented me from following through with that as I would have had to get it all burned off for everything to look uniform all said and done painted. Didn't wanna have half PC and the other half rattle-canned.

PC also typically will tend to come off in chunks if the prep isn't done right or completely cleaned. Blasting is labor intensive but will help with that, so that'll drive up the price a good bit.
Most shops will do a burn in the oven to remove any residues and then maybe a light hand sand on difficult surfaces before a primer and then paint.

 

Thanks. Yeah I think I’m just going to do the spray bed liner so that way I can do touch ups if I want to without it looking super shitty. We will see if I regret that decision later.

 

This is my preferred method also.

 

I did that with Steel-It and it was an expensive mistake. Rustoleum black when spring hits.

 

Technically that's not my preferred method I'm actually pretty methodical. I wipe it down with acetone after taking a scotchbrite to the surfaces. If I have time I'll file all the edges of the plate to soften them, sharp edges tend to chip and not get as good of coats of paint as beveled. Then I spray as much rusty metal primer or a self etching primer as possible. After that it's a ton of coats of whatever topcoat I want to use. The base coat is usually 2x more coats than the top coat. If I wanted to go crazy then after those 2 coats I'd do a bedliner coat. This has gotten me extremely good results for durability. Thats how I do bumpers and other pieces that isn't going to see a ton of impacts. For things like sliders and skids it's whatever cans have paint leftover gets shot 0 prep and let it ride clyde.

 

I’m in the rattlecan bedliner camp. Bumper, skids, sliders. I’m not winning any car shows but it’s easy to touch up if you want and I’m not worried about scratching it up.

 

I’m more of a chrome guy myself

 

I can't even imagine what it's like to live in a place where you don't need to coat bare metal...