Front Drivers Inner CV Axle Play

I know I have a slight rattle in the back from my exhaust although it's quite different from the clunking. I will try the rubber mallet tonight after work.

 

OP, I'm thinking that you have two separate issues going on here and may be relating the clunking noise part of your problem to the CV shaft whereas it may actually be the (upper and/or lower) steering intermediate shafts. The upper is a known source of clunking. The lower a known source of seizing and other steering issues due to rusting.

Take a look at this TSB. It is titled as "rattle" but many, including me, have had "clunks", mine on two different trucks.
T-SB-0057-12.pdf

 

I'll try to get an appointment at toyota to see if they can help look into this. I'm assuming that since my VDS and WMI match up to to applicable models that I might be covered. I'm assuming since my truck is a 2010 then it wont be covered under recall/warranty? Will replacing this stuff be very expensive?

Also, if it turns out to be the steering intermediate shaft(s), is this something that will need to be replaced or is it more of an annoyance thing?

 

Correct. There is no warranty coverage on your 2010.

My comments here apply only if the problem is with the intermediate shaft(s), and not elsewhere.

1. Lower Shaft. If you are experiencing stiffness in the steering or periodic seizing when turning the steering the needle bearings in the ujoint of the lower intermediate shaft have probably rusted. This is a safety issue and must be addressed. IMHO the only satisfactory way to address this is to replace the lower shaft.

2. Upper Shaft. Try checking the shaft per this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Dr7df3dRNQ

The slop and corresponding clunk come from a small plastic bushing in the center of the joint.

The fix is to replace the shaft with the TSB shaft per my link to the TSB above. If you do that use only the TSB shaft as the parts catalog defaults to the old shaft and that is what will be provided unless you specify the TSB one that has xxxxx-xxx20 end number.

Alternatively, as a cheap or temporary fix, and possibly a longer term fix, some members have tried addressing the slop in the upper shaft by inserting a zip tie per this thread: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ad-the-zip-tie-fix-will-make-your-day.435015/

 

I am getting some stiffness in my steering but no siezing. Is there a way I can test that needle bearing in the U-joint? Is it possible to grease/spray it to try and free it up a little bit?

If I am going to replace the lower shaft but still have some slop in that plastic bushing, should I just replace the whole thing?

 

For anyone who has used the ECGS tool to install the seal, do you know the diameter of the tool?

Or at least the diameter needed to be able to press the seal in correctly without wrecking it?

 

If you're talking about the CV axle seal it is about 3" in diameter. Get you a 3" PVC pipe with a cap on one end and tap it in carefully

 

That's perfect, just what I was wondering about!

Thanks

 

Would anyone happen to know the inner diameter of the cv axle seal roughly?

 

Where did you get OEM FOR $120 , Toyota wants $400 and they are 196 at Napa . For that price I would replace axle and be done with it .

 

I have a family friend that owns an auto parts store so I get cost on stuff fortunately

 

Nice are they looking for more friends ??

 

Hey OP I have the same problem. My CV axle makes a clunking sound when going over pot holes but no vibration.
Its loose and wiggles just like in your video. Did you replace the needle bearings or get the bushing kit?

 

My best advise is BUY THE TOOL.
IT IS WORTH THE MONEY.


It been awhile since I did mine.
And I doing my best to remember how I used the tool. I am the type that just figured it out along the way. And it all fell together as how to “use” t he tool.

Understand that in the pictures the handle will be on the OTHER SIDE. Just ignore the handle.
The tool actually has a recess cut into it so you don’t smash rubber lip on the seal. Anyways, I think a 2.5” is what you need.

Or anything between 2.353” or 2.75”
Which 2.5” fall between just right

The black looking discoloration on the tool is what the seal rest on. So that’s what I measured.

I included a picture of the seal so you know what I am referring to as the “ rubber lip”. You don’t want so smash it or damage it much. So a solid flat surface isn’t ideal. That’s why I bought the tool.
Plus it seats the seal where it needs to be