What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Hey man let me help you out. It’s pretty easy but can be frustrating.

• Step 1- Measure where your stock decals are with blue tape and create you a border. You want to have an idea where to put the new sticker. Now, like me if your new sticker doesn’t have a clear backer, then it will be off a bit.
  
• Step 2- Use a hairdryer and cover the sticker getting it nice and hot. Find a corner and commit to pulling in the same direction the entire time. As you are pulling, use heat on the sticker right infront of where your hand (I recommend wearing a glove) is pulling and keep pulling slowly moving the heat as you pull. You may have some small pieces break off, but it will come off.
  
• Step 3- Now you have the old sticker off, there will be a lot of residue left over. You want a glass like feel before you replace your sticker. I tried goo gone, but it didn’t work for me. I used nail polish remover on a microfiber and it worked great. Use at your own risk though. Make sure it’s all gone before moving to the next step.
• Step 4- Now you are ready to lay on your decal. Go ahead and pull off a strip of painters tape for the next step and stick it on your bed rail. Before you peel off the backing of your sticker, place your decal where you want it aligned within the tape border you created in step 1. Now, put that strip in the middle of your sticker so it divides it into two sections, add some pressure and it should stay on the truck. Peel off your blue tape outline and remove the rest of the residue that you see.
  
• Step 5- You will be working only one side of the sticker and going from inside to outside. Take your squeegee or card and wipe the sticker from inside to outside. This will make sure the sticker doesn’t get stuck on the backing as you peel it off. Now slowly start peeling take your time making sure each letter comes up. Once you get to the blue tape, tear off the backing paper. Don’t let go of the sticker!
  
• Step 6- You only get one shot at this! Hold the sticker making sure no letters are touching to the truck, now pull the sticker outward. Starting at the blue tape, TAKE YOUR TIME and with your squeegee, work the sticker down onto the truck going from inside to outside until the sticker is layed flat onto the bed side. Go over the sticker with your squeegee just to ensure it is fully adhered to the paint. Now SLOWLY, remove the top sticker revealing your letters.
  
• Step 7 repeat for the other side of the tape and opposite of the bed. Hope i explained that clearly and this helps you out.

 

What type of suspension you running that beast on man?

 

I have to do this too. Big difference? Break any clips? Waiting till it’s a little bit warmer outside for this mod

 

I don't know if it has to be. That's what I use for work and it worked in this case. If you use anything else and it stains your shit I covered my ass. Haha

 

Maybe no wife?

 

I wouldn't recommend the matte. You'll be adding 2 inches to the blind spot created by your pillars. At least the smoke is somewhat translucent.

 

Appreciate it man. I’ve heard good things about the BP51s too. Still researching.. thanks again for the response

 

Yes. I installed the dash speakers first and they alone were a big improvement. I can actually tell there are speakers there now. The sound with all the speakers in is a big difference in clarity. I’ll be getting a 4 channel amp in the near future so these speakers will be working at there true output. Should also note that the rear speakers are only getting about 10% power from the stock head unit which is why I’m going with the addition of the amp. Depending on how they sound with the amp I may replace the rear door speakers with some RF 6.5” subs if it still needs some extra punch. I am totally happy with the investment thus far and know that the amp will definitely improve on top of everything else.

 

Does it actually give more MPGs or just reset and trick the system? Mine reset to about 335 last fill up and I’ll still only get about 261 until I have to fill up again. Same as it’s always been

 

Installed my front receiver and wired for the winch!
I was asked by a couple of people where this mount came from sooooo....

I used a bulldog hidden winch mount, bought a 14" long 2" receiver blank, drilled and tapped 5ea. 3/8-16 holes in the receiver. Drilled 5ea , 3/8 holes in the bulldog and mounted the receiver on the bulldog with grade 8 bolts. The 5ea bolts should be stronger than the 4ea that normally mount the winch!
My Frankenmount.

 

It might, I don't paint my nails. I don't have any available to try.

 

Yeah that’s what I heard. I also plan to get 5% window tint lol

 

I will try that thanks! I guess I was waiting for my 15k service figured they might do it

 

That is a big difference between actual and estimated mileage. Have you done a physical calculation to confirm?

 

I have not recalibrated anything. I’ve always gotten around 14.1 - 14.9 MPGs. Having 35s on the truck doesn’t help either.

I was more curious if that disconnect actually changes the actual MPGs or just resets the system until it learns your driving patterns again

 

Thanks bro. I swapped out the tweeters for suburu ones way back. But still have to do the front and rears. I’ll look into RF. Did you only do the front? I also don’t know a ton about electric / sound systems but I keep seeing everyone reference the amp. I’d like to do the same in the near future

 

You are correct always on the floor to fill. I said at the end over view that only if I was in a rush I would be ok with it.

 

Thats a pretty great idea - I didn’t even consider that 6.5” subs would be an option for the rear doors.

I’m about to start my first step in my audio system upgrade with replacing the tweeters with the Subaru kickers…next I was going to do front door speakers…those two seem to have the biggest bang for the buck improvement from what I’ve read…then if I want to go further look into rear speakers, amps, subs and from what I’ve read just replacing the rear speakers doesn’t make much of a difference because of the 10% power distribution as you stated.

 

Installed a J&L catch can today. I'm impressed with the quality of the product, the time the company spent on the instructional video, and the ease of installation. Yes, I understand this is not a direct injection engine. Yes, I understand that the motor was designed to handle oil coming back into the intake cycle from the crank. Yes, I put it in anyway for funsies for the same reason that I can pick my nose and eat my boogers and my stomach can handle it, but I prefer to use a kleenex so my boogs don't go down my throat, into my stomach and out my arse. Would rather bypass that whole process and just use a Kleenex. Savvy?