Ironman 4x4 Foam Cell Pro

Total was honestly right on the nose for what I expected based on my copious amounts of exhaustive research prior to going to the dealer (spoiler alert: I only looked at one webpage: https://repairpal.com/estimator/fuel-tank-replacement-cost)

I just really hope this all gets cleaned up quick and easy... I still gotta pay the taxman before April!

 

Ive never once said I know what I’m talking about .

hope it’s straightened out quick. You calling/sending quote to them today?

 

Emailed all the scanned docs from the appointment this morning.

 

Here’s a video of the bottom, I might add the spacer back for the bump stop but not 100% sure yet. I’m going to get it aligned and drive for a bit to see how it settles. Again the is driving over speed humps and there is a round about in there twice- https://youtu.be/2Kn5CglyyME

 

Hi all.
Finally got around to taking some photos and measurements.
Here are the numbers I got:
Driver side front - 23 inches
Pass front - 23.5
Driver side rear - 23.5
Pass rear - 24

So, I'm about a half inch high on the passenger side. At first glace it's hard to tell from the rear (photo not quite level).

Here is what the front looks like. I think they are installed correctly:
Driver side

Passenger side:

Any suggestions? Should I leave it as is?

Glad to hear IM is stepping up to get some of the tanks repaired.

 

Nice! I was going to make a suggestion but I’m confusing myself looking at your pics and measurements. With the drivers side being lower (lift wise), shouldn’t there be less threads showing which would reduce preload… your pics have more threads which should be increasing preload, lifting the truck higher…
Silly question but are the springs the same part numbers?

 

Thanks! I’ve been delaying putting on the 720# springs until everything settled. Plus I hate switching out springs with regular old spring compressors at home. I think if I take it somewhere to be done, it’d be a big PITA and expensive.
Maybe I’ll do it on my next day off.

 

Im sure it won’t be cheap. Though, someone had gotten lucky and a pep boys did it for 40 or something cheap like that. The one near me said they would not mess with them.
The toughest part is getting the rod end through the top had. It does not go in straight when jacking up the LCA. Gotta be able to guide it. If you have someone that can use the jack while you guide it, that will help a lot. It can be done alone though, just takes patience.

 

Yes, you are correct. Here's what I think happened. The dealer installed the kit. I noticed there was a lot of lean and I brought it back for them to fix. I told them I thought they had the install on the wrong side, especially the front end. I don't think they agreed with me even though the passenger side originally had more threads showing. IM said this should be on the D/S and not the P/S. I put IM in contact with the dealer and the dealer came back and said the D/S leaf spring was bad. IM shipped out a new one and I brought my truck in again. They put the new leaf spring on and cranked up the D/S shock. This is where I'm at now. I bet they didn't want to take the time to swap the front coils/shocks and do the appropriate adjustments.

According to the IM page, the shocks are not directional (45710FE - Foam Cell Pro Struts (2)), but I can't tell about the springs. They look like they are installed correctly, so I'm not sure.

I'm not sure what to do. I can live with the 0.5 inch difference, but my question is should I have the dealer swap the front shocks and decompress them a bit? Is the extra compression on the D/S going to effect the longevity or performance of the shock?

I think the ride is pretty good, although I have yet to take the truck on any serious dirt or haul anything heavy.

Thanks for any suggestions/input.

I've learned my lesson - avoid the dealership. I assumed they knew what they were doing. I didn't realize until afterward that there are two 4x4 shops in town.

 

As long as I read (and comprehended) this right,
The springs are not different for the sides the only reason I asked was there are A, B and C springs (based on last digit in the part number). These have different lengths. I was thinking maybe you got an A (720# 15.35” spring) and a B (826# 15.03” spring). Only thinking out loud. Do you know if they put the leaf springs on the correct sides? The one with a D/S (or maybe a J) should be on the drivers side.
I’d say it depends how stubborn you are. If you paid them, they really should make it right. I would think maybe swapping the shocks could fix it and might be easier than adjusting the springs. If you have a floor jack, stands and some basic tools it’s not too bad. But then again, you paid the dealership to do it. Maybe ask them how it’s right.
For longevity, I would only be concerned about the cv boot fins touching. Things may wear out but the boots would be the first thing to go. It does not seem like you have excess lift and need to worry about that though.

 

Thanks a lot for the suggestions. The leaf springs were installed correctly from the start. I don't know about the A, B, and C. I'll have to check later today.

 

I only bring it up since I can’t wrap my head around why the drivers side has more preload but lower height. I could see if both were set with the same preload/amount of threads showing the drivers side being lower.

 

I agree.

 

(Assuming we're talking about the same stencil): I learned yesterday from their reply to my sending them paperwork from the dealership that the "J" code is their date stamp for the production run and won't always be a "J".

I assume '21' is the year ... just a haphazard guess on my part but maybe the "J" is the month code (J = 10, October), 05 for October 5th, and 21 for the year?

Just a guess on my part and also admittedly looking at this from a typical American imperialistic standpoint with zero consideration for the fact that Ausies write the date DD/MM/YY

 

That makes sense and I didn’t even think about that… speaking of that I still need to call them about mine.

 

You keep saying that.

E-mail them photo of your date code and the damage and ask them how to proceed.

 

@hyrule_trd didja do it yet?

 

ok ok, I emailed and sent pics. They called back within 10-15 min.
I’ll be taking mine into the dealer for then to look at it but I’m pretty confident they won’t say it needs to be replaced (but that’s their liability). I’ll try and get an appointment for that this week if I can find time.

 

Thanks for the suggestion.
Both front springs are the same - TOY065A K0421
and so are the rear - J0821

 

With everything being the same I can’t see how the drives side is sitting lower but more preload. At this point if you’re ok with it, maybe drive it for a few weeks and see how it goes. Here is A graphic from @AccuTune Offroad which is why I think something is going on but maybe it’s nothing-