4.0 Timing Cover Leak repair help and tear down pictures.

I drained my oil, wish I wouldn't have. Bump starting would have been so nice to do to remove my crankshaft bolt. I didn't want to risk anything due to me draining my oil right away. I would drain it after you remove that bolt. I had some old rtv fall into my oil pan that got around my paper towels. I just reached in there and pulled it out.

 

Thanks man. I finished two days ago. I saved a boat load. I swear my engine idles lower now. 100% quieter than before. Thanks for the photod

 

I've just bought a 4Runner a month ago for a good price, but it has this timing chain cover leak. Thanks for posting.

 

OP, How did you sealed the lower part of the timing c.c.?

 

I know this isn’t particularly helpful, but I got my 07 fixed under my extended warranty that I purchased through the dealer. Below is what was quoted on the service invoice. I took it to my nearest Toyota dealership and they wouldn’t fix it because it “wasn’t dripping”, I later took it to the dealership where I purchased it and they took care of it no questions asked. Your warranty is only as good as your dealership.

 

Not the OP but I just did mine. I just applied RTV to the oil pan itself.

 

OP, What tool did you use to take the main pulley out?. How di you do to loose it without turning the shaft?

 

I used this, but If I could do it over again I would have used the bump start method

$80 OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder Wrench with Interchangeable pins, black

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4754-Uni...pulley+holder&qid=1568525985&s=gateway&sr=8-3

 

Adding to OP post, in order not to initiate a new thread.

Tool posted by OP for taking harmonic balancer out.

I used 2 M8-1.25X50 with 4 nuts each one. I used 2 nuts locked for limiting the deep you can go in, the other 2 for tightening tool bars parallel to pulley.

Then siliconed everything as per Toyota Manual.

Permatex ultra black for the oil part
Permatex High temp RTV gasket maker for coolant holes.
Before siliconing everything, I tried out 3 times putting the cover in and out to be sure oil pump and shaft were aligned and cover went in easy after siliconing.




Be sure to change this two o-rings




Press in and tighten bolts by hand, wait 1 hour before final torque.

Check inside for a nice distribution os new silicon gasket.

 

Hey, thanks for great info! I got a question, did u take the differential off? I have a 05 4runner and it says I need 2 take that off first, was that tuff? any special tools?

 

I didn't cause that would had been a huge task. That's why I try

I didn't.

 

Hey all,
New to the forum but have been driving Tacoma’s for over 20 years now.

the stealership just did this timing cover leak repair for me along with a water pump for $2.8K. Talk about a strain on the pocket book for an 06 with 187k.

Unfortunately the truck started throwing out a P0430 Cat and Exst. manifold gaskets codes less than a week later. Also noticed a bit of a loss in power in the top end range from 70 to 80mph.

I hope they didn’t rush the job as some of you’ve stated that can cause problems, like misfiring, eng. damage or others like not removing all the FIPg. Who knows. They live now had it for a week almost and last I heard it was “throwing out bad codes”.

what can I expect to tell them if they come back with some dumb excuse???
Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

 

Maybe they fucked up reassembly.
If it is the P0430 code, you can buy a new sensor, AFAIK only one part of the stream, upstream, will report codes.

 

As far as I know P0430 is a catalyst efficiency code on bank 2. Could be the upstream cat is going bad, could be a bad O2 sensor, or could be a leak. Those seem to be the big causes of those codes.

 

Thanks for the tips SR-71A and Reggie.

After over a week at the dealer, they called and said the CAT is bad and needs replacing, either it’s clogged or not working properly.
If find it real strange this happened exactly a week after the timing cover repair they did.

Is there a way for them to prove the CAT is clogged or broke down?? They want over 2K for an OEM CAT.

 

Yeah Im not sure if there is a way to test CATs or not.

Not to derail this thread, but you probably could swap the O2 sensors from one side to the other and see if the code changes. Indicating a bad sensor

 

Bringing this thread back...
The time has come to fix the old girl's leak.
Parts Needed/Recommended:
Valve cover / Plenum (intake) gaskets
Spark plugs
Oil pump seal rings
My Waterpump is og, with 194k so pump with gasket and coolant
Check tensioners and chain
RTV high temp for coolant, Black for oil

What might I be missing for preventative maintenance and what makes sense to do now?
Really trying to cry once.
Thanks.

 

Maybe add a belt tensioner since all the components will already be off.

 

Coolant hoses. Thermostat.

 

Hey guys (OP HERE) i just wanted to follow up with everyone since i did this job. Its been almost 3 years now i think since i did this crazy job myself and the truck only had 158k miles at the time.. Well now it has 212k and shes still going strong with no issues. Leak is still sealed up nicely and holding strong. All regular maintenance since owned and nothing major to complain about or repair since this task. I seen others take on the same task and wonder how theirs have been holding up since they repaired it themselves?