Long Travel BS Thread

reported

Been here all along lol

Yep lol. Video is making the rounds again.

 

You should notch or step your frame to move those CO’s inward because your articulation is going to be very limited by your tire dry humping your CO like a 12 year old that just discovered Porn Hub. Your more into trails and rocks right ?

 

It clears the tires fine, but the coil will contact the factory bump pad at full tilt so it’s getting cut out and maybe notched if need be. I set it up with 1.5” spacers even though I’m using 2” so I would leave myself enough room just in case. I was surprised how much clearance there was. I thought I was going to have to ditch the frame. Yes, not a lot of fast stuff here.

 

I’m really confused because my tire rubs my bed when it is stuffed and you a coilover in that space so how is the tire not hitting the CO ? Are you letting the opposite side droop out fully or are you just jacking up the side you are checking ?

 

Mine is mounted to the axle tube not a trailing arm so maybe the frame taper is playing a part. Im 2” from the spring perch. Im also running 125/150 coils which may be thinner than yours? I’m further away from the tire than the frame. I’ll have to cut at least the bump pad though. This isn’t much more helpful, but here’s another pic

 

Wide open Design has a good YouTube quick and dirty explanation.

 

Got any photos of it articulated? You're getting quizzed on it because every person that tries to do it like you have, have to notch the frame and angle the COs in at the bed cage to get full performance....and your COs are like 6 inches away from the frame?

 

The shock body is 2” from the frame at full extension. Not sure where you’re getting 6” from. I’ve said I will likely have to notch the frame where the bump pad is. It would probably help to note that I’m setting up for 5.5” of bump. It’s not the end of the world to move the mount either, and it will be cycled again as I notch what needs to be. I’ll take pictures then.

who else is doing 16” coilovers with dual triangulated four link? I’d like to pick their brains on some stuff.

 

@Tacoma1192 on here
His IG is @kyle_gdmotorsports

 

He’s been helpful for sure with the charcoal canister especially.

 

Definitely hitting the coils haha. I wasn’t fully drooped on the right side when I cycled it. Easy fix though. Good looking out.

 

How are y’all notching the frame? May do that if it’s easier than back halving. Might be more trouble than it’s worth. I originally thought I’d back half it, guess I’m back to that now.

 

If you’re not running a bed, what’s your reasoning behind not back halving it?

 

Dirt King makes these https://dirtkingfabrication.com/products/leaf-under-bump-stop-mounts-dk-811843 if I'm understanding what you're talking about.

 

Same idea but sideways. Lots of beamed trucks do that up front.

 

Lots more tube work, creating a bump arm from scratch. Might be a toss up by the time I notch it. Maybe I’ll back quarter it haha

I am also unsure if I can create a structure strong enough at the base to support the tube bed. I’m trying to research how folks are doing it and tying into the factory frame

 

Gotta notch the other direction unfortunately haha

 

Different type of notch, The are talking about notching the side of the frame to move the shocks Inboard more. this is how mine was done

 

TBH by the time you make a bunch of workarounds to make the frame work, you could have just made a square tube frame. Listen to the guys who have said it would have been easier it back half it - they're the majority of guys with that kind of setup (fuel cell, no bed, links). It will also help you to reconfigure the space to be used well. Better storage, departure angle, etc.

 

That’s not bad, but I’ll be past the factory frame or right at the end of it at first glance.