Buying a new trailer. understanding weight distribution hitches and if I need one?

Hey all.

Specs on truck 2005 v6 4x4 access cab with a modest 2.5 inch lift and Dakar Heavy rear springs. I have towed motorcycles and enclosed trailers for 20 years but this is my first big trailer and I am new to it all...

I am buying a 2004 Palamino Thoroughbred t-23-fb

I have not ever towed with it so until I can get it on a scale this is what I have as far as specs

Hitch weight - 231 lbs
Axle Weight - 3176 lbs
Dry Weight - 3407 lbs
GVWR - 4793 lbs

I am trying to figure the safest way to tow this with my tacoma if possible. That being said, when I get home I will need to back this thing down a 40 yard driveway into a carport that I have set up for it. I was reading about issues with backing up weight distribution hitches and the more I read the more I am confused with all the different types of weight distribution hitches out there....

I was reading through the towing bible and people mentioned the fastway e2 but there are dozens of different types it seems?

looking locally and I saw one but it was a trunnion hitch whatever that means? Is that the same thing?

Do I need a weight distribution hitch here and which one are you all using? Can you back up with it?

Id really appreciate some experience from the group here on this.

Thanks all

 

WDH are a must for travel trailer towing. They help reduce or illuminate trailer bounce and sag in your truck rear suspension.

Most are fairly similar in design. 2 tensioner bars and the hitch assembly that the tensioner bars socket into.

As for backing up, it's not an issue until you severely jack knife the trailer to get the trailer to make a very sharp turn in reverse. Be en then, it only takes a minute to remove the tensioner bars. Often you are backing up to park the trailer long term so you would be removing the bars anyways.

If this is a 2 axle trailer, backing 40 yards will be very easy. Dual axle trailers like back in a straight line better than single axle trailers.

That trailer weight will be noticed and you will be using lower gear to tow. Hills will be slow.

 

Essentially the two different types of WDH's are torsion bar and chain. Torsion bar tend to be for larger loads (which is what I'd go with since this is a high GVWR for a tall trailer if towing with our small trucks).

I think this will give you a lot of the answers you're looking and is probably one of the most comprehensive videos on WDHs out there:

 

Weight distribution video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jk9H5AB4lM

https://youtu.be/w9Dgxe584Ss

 

Thanks all, I have a much better understanding of WD hitches now.

circling back to the fastway e2 WD hitch I mentioned earlier and the specs I provided on the trailer.

I found the same hitch local and used but like new but the model is rated at 12000 lbs....

I wont get anywhere close to that with my truck...is it an issue to run a heavier rated model hitch even though I dont need it?

I can get the 12k model local for $250 as opposed to paying $500 to buy the 6-10k model that I would have bought new.

 

From what I've gathered you should size your WDH to your expected tongue weight due to the torsion bars / chains being designed to support that load. But don't quote me on that, bigger might be okay.

Here's some reading material on that, there's a video embedded in the page too: https://www.etrailer.com/faq-2-steps-weight-distribution-size.aspx

 

@vtwinjunkie if you have the budget, I highly recommend looking into a Hensley Arrow. It is one of the best money can buy. If I didn't have an overland trailer I would be using one. I'm running a max coupler fully articulating hitch.

 

Here is a dissenting opinion.

Suggest to make a tow without a WDH. The max weight of the loaded trailer and tongue weights are well within the the trucks capacity.

Yes, a WDH has advantages.....it also has disadvantages. Its heavy and adds to the tongue weight, reducing cargo load. Can be difficult to set properly. More complex than a plan 2" ball. Extra cost.

Your truck likely has a GCVWR (Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating) near 11,000 lbs. This is the whole shebang; truck, people, pets, cargo, trailer, gear........ Truck (empty) is about 4400 plus the loaded trailer at 4800 to total a pinch over 9000 lbs.....leaving roughly 2000 lb buffer for cargo, people and pets.

Frankly, I'd try a short tow without the WDH see how the system behaves.

I strongly recommend getting the trailer and truck weighed when set up for the trip. Do this before you plan the trip. Most people severely underestimate the cargo weight they haul. Don't haul potable water, grey water or black water. Empty the waste and potable tanks. Every 8 gallons weighs about than 65 lbs.

 

Not liking this at all. Hugely over engineered.

I'll pass.

I bet they haven't sold 100 of those things.

 

@koditten the great thing about recommendations is that when you find something that isn't what you are looking for you cross it off the decision matrix and can move on. As for ...

You may consider looking at owner reviews on YouTube; I'd hate for you to lose money making absurd bets.

@vtwinjunkie one thing I just thought of: frequency. How often are you planning on towing? Are you just going to move this trailer from the place you buy it to a spot on your property and then leave it? If so do not spend 2.5k on a Hensley as that will just be a waste. People who full time and pull 10k+ trailers behind diesels use Hensleys to pull in the high winds of CO and NM and WY. The arrow is made for lighter vehicles and trailers but it is a waste of $$$ if it gets used once and is done. Also, Air Stream dealers recommend the Hensley (Check out Colonial Airstream on YT) and there are plenty of owner reviews out there. It isn't THE only option, it is just AN option and an expensive one at that. Like I told duder above, at the very least you can research and cross it off the list and then move on to other considerations which is a win in itself at this point in your journey.

 

It doesn't quite work like that.
Toyota states anything over 3000#(I believe), in the owners manual, needs to have a WDH. Maybe if you are not trailering on highways and staying local it would be a different story.
As far as GCRWR- it is not realistic. You will either a) exceed the recommended tongue weight or b) exceed cargo capacity way before you ever hit that number.
I pull about 5100# with a tongue weight of about 12% (close to the minimum you want to do) and I barely have any cargo capacity with just 2 people.
I am about 600# under the GCVWR. If I add it to the trailer (presuming maintaining 12% hitch weight and proper distribution) that would add 72# to my hitch weight and likely exceed my cargo capacity if I am dry camping and take a generator.
Not to say it doesn't happen, but I certainly would not risk it.

 

I towed a similar trailer a few thousand miles. I used Fastway E2- 600lb hitch. Make sure you choose the correct weight range hitch. This is one time “more” is not better. Too much hitch can damage your truck or trailer. And spend time to get the hitch set up correctly. You’ll need some level ground and instructions which came with hitch were good. Btw, Camping World puts them on sale frequently.

 

This is what I was wondering.

My trailer has a listed tongue weight of 235 (I know that I need to get that weighed at a scale for the accurate weight with full propane tanks etc) but I probably need a similar hitch to you.

The hitch I am looking at buying is for a 1200 lbs tongue weight and I wondered if I could make it work.

Can you explain why it wouldnt work? You said it could damage the truck or trailer...Can I ask you to explain how?

 

Here is a great video on WDH versus airbag and why WDH are better for towing. Not only are they great at distributing the load so you're not popping a wheelie, but they also have sway control built in (depending on which one you get).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBZu39pQ8Gg



I have a curt trutrack for my tundra and towing my tacoma around. It takes some time and measurements to get it properly set up but it's well worth it. Once I got mine dialed in it ended up squatting the front and rear of the truck 1/2". As mentioned, you want appropriate bars for your tongue weight.

$610 CURT 17500 TruTrack 4P Weight Distribution Hitch with 4x Sway Control, Up to 10K, 2-In Shank, 2-5/16" Ball

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O46ZO02?ie=UTF8

If you REALLY want to be accurate and have a dialed setup, you can get the trailer loaded and then actually weigh the tongue. I didn't do that but only because the range of my bars is 800-1,200 lbs and I know I fall within that range.

$171 Sherline LM 1000 - Trailer Tongue Weight Scale - 1000LB

https://www.amazon.com/Sherline-LM-1000-Trailer-Tongue/dp/B007REJTGI?crid=2XU8T60CG0R3C&keywords=hitch+scale&qid=1645104499&sprefix=hitch+scale%2Caps%2C242&sr=8-11

 

Thanks, Nobody can seem to answer my question about having a weight distribution hitch that is rated higher than I need.

Some have said they need to be matched but I cant seem to find out if going over will hurt anything and if so.....why?

I found a deal locally on a WDH that is rated for a tongue weight of 1200 lbs. I really only need 6-800 tops but Its a torsion style hitch and I cant imagine having something over engineered wont work just fine.

 

I didn't answer because I don't actually know why, but google is at your fingertips.

 

https://www.etrailer.com/faq-choose-weight-distribution-hitch-5-tips.aspx

 

I was just reading that.

Sounds a bit like gimmick to me.....its like the distributors are trying to get me to upgrade my WDH every time I get a new trailer.

 

That's not the case at all because you can simply just buy new appropriately sized load bars and keep the rest of the hitch.

 

I thought of that too.

But the hauler controls the tension on the bars (aka me) and if I have it setup right, I dont understand why it would be an issue....

Im gonna buy this setup I found and I will report back if I have any issues to the next guy that may have this question.

If I have an issue, or its too bouncy...... haha.....

I can always buy the right load bars for the application.

Thanks