Nova Scotia BS Thread

From our text conservation last night, I went down the rabbit hole of engine swaps.

2uz, D4D, VW TDI ( ALH? IDK... ) LS, and what I'm finding is there seems to be off the shelf parts available for 1st gen Taco's but not a whole lot for the 2nd gen which I find strange since the frames are almost 20 years old I would have thought this type of thing ( engine swaps ) would have been beat to death and there would be parts and tutorials up the wazoo.

I could be looking in the wrong places mind you, but my Google Fu isn't too shabby if I do say so myself but I've been wrong before and would love to be wrong about this.

D2

 

Sweet! Unfortunately @TacoMitch93 tipped me off, the 2tr seems to have a different bearing size.. I'll bring my pulley and calipers anyway and we'll check it out.

 

Bearing numbers are standardized,

6302/6203

6 deep groove ball bearing
2/3 service load
02/03 internal bearing race bore

I'm sure I could go find the chart in my text book, if you guys want more info!

 

I was talking more so about part interchangeability across Toyota platforms, rather than straight swaps. You could technically mount a 2J to your engine with Toyota parts, mounts and such would be a different story, and same with the ECU, but still. The UZ engine family never came mounted to a manual trans, so that's where the adaptor plates come into play.

I'm sure most swaps you would want to do are out there somewhere, whether or not there is a step by step tutorial may be a different story, since there can be soooooo any different options when it comes to these engine swaps. 2UZ, with or without VVTI? R155 or R151 trans? Maybe you wanna keep the stock auto trans?!

Part of why you might see less info on D4D swaps is because we never got them over here. I'd LOVE to have a KD in my truck but it would be unrealistic and troublesome for finding parts and whatnot.

There are definitely swap parts out there, you just need to know the interchangeability throughout Toyota. 1UZ+R154 in a MK3 Supra? Same as a 2UZ+R155 in a taco! And you'll probably be running a 3GSTE clutch with a modified flywheel in either situation.

 

So my dad always told me observation is key. I guess I'm not real good at listening because when I saw my torn cv boot last weekend I wondered when and how that could have happened but I failed to observe the separated sway bar link that almost certainly did the deed! I also didn't listen when Canoehead said to always have spare brake lines on hand when working around those, although I did listen to Snowman when he said changing cv boots isn't too hard but then I doubted myself and just bought a new cv anyway. So now I have a brand new cv and no brakes lol. Oh and AC Delco sway bar links suck, need a new one of those too maybe two since I replaced them both only two and a half years ago.

 

I googled it -
6302 has 15mm bore and 42mm outside diameter
6203 has 17mm bore and 40mm outside diameter

Thus confirming, 1gr has bigger balls

 

Which brake line did you break? I've had to make a couple of the soft line to caliper hard lines!

Also, on the subject of brake lines, everyone should take a peek at the hardlines in the back, right before they go to soft lines. Mine ruptured there in December, might be worth a look so you're not stuck driving home with no brakes like I was!

 

Is anyone looking for a compressor? My 60 gallon is up and running, and I have a small one for house stuff so this one is just taking up valuable garage space.

 

I should also say the second digit, service load, also determines the outer diameter of the bearing.

 

Yup, that one.

 

If you're going to make one, its EXTREMELY important you save the fitting that goes into the soft line. there's a shank on it and they don't sell them anywhere. I searched for them when I was hunting down parts when I popped the rear line.

Also...... don't forget to put the flare fitting on before you flare the line, it's the most defeating moment when you realize you have to redo it.

 

Even better when you put them on do a really nice job of bending the line, and realize the fitting is backwards.

 

Replace the boot on the old one and keep it for next time.

 

I have yet to do that one!! I don't think I'm done flaring lines though, so there's still time!

 

Why bother with spending 4k+ on an engine swap in the 2nd gen Tacoma when the V6 makes 240hp. When you need more power you regear. After you run out of power that way you search URD and plop a supercharger in place making north of 300hp. That is the major reason that there hasn't been too many documented swaps on the truck, they reliably make plenty of power till their death. Every LS swap thread comes to the same conclusion of not worth the hassle. Every diesel swap thread comes to the same conclusion of not worth the money for a slower truck.

That being said rumor is the UZ motors from the 4Runner basically bolt in with minimal wiring to repin. That is the direction I want to go whenever my 2GR blows up.

My 2nd and 3rd gear syncros are very on their way out. She is getting really grumpy in the cold weather shifting. Not quite needing to double clutch, but it might be time to consider rebuilding the transmission. If I do so I will probably look for the taller 6th gear from the FJ. It's that or figure a way to bolt the R155 or 150 to the V6 and not bother with the RA60's issues.

 

When you're starting with a 2TR, your gains are far greater. I notice a HUGE difference in drivability between the 265/75's and the 255/85's. I'm running the stock manifold again though, but I'm really not sure how much of a difference the LCE equal length header really makes. I'll butt dyno it when I can get the hood open again.

I think the biggest thing when going from the 1GR to a UZ or diesel isn't so much the numbers, but where they land on the RPM range. The 2TR hits peak torque at like... 4 grand or something silly. I'm not sure about the v6 though. My TDI hits peak under 2k rpm, so even though it only has 230-240 tq (according to the internet), it's all completely useable

 

Hmm, sounds like more than I am prepared to deal with today.. I know when I deleted the clutch accumulator I was able to buy a short line with the correct fittings on it already and I was hoping to do the same again, otherwise I'll just have to suck up whatever Toyota want for the part.

 

That's the plan

 

I searched high and low for one. I think the only way you can get the fittings is on the line from Toyota. I ended up getting some from a friend that works at Toyota, I got lucky.

 

I'll give them a call in a bit.

By the way, just putting this out there... Turbo 2TR