NEW RADIATOR FILL AND BLEED

The easiest ones to get to, it does not matter much. At least one of the heater core hoses should be opened and blown out.
60 PSI should be fine. I don't see any harm blowing that much air through an open cooling system.

 

The DS block drain is a little difficult to see and get to. Please check out this thread on changing the coolant. This one is pretty straight to the point. Please read and study each post. As you may have deduced by now there are different ways or methods to do this fairly simple but important task. Take it all in and decide what you feel is best for you. My thinking is if you get 90% of fresh coolant in, your truck is better off than it was. Just saying...


https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/v6-antifreeze-coolant-change-how-to.657479/

 

but if you take one off where does the debris if any exit?

 

I'm beginning to wonder if my truck has one on the drivers side i can not find that mf'er

 

is your truck 4.0 V6?

Also, check this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPev41aVmpY

 

i was just watching it but no mines a 2.7 4 cylinder

 

That may be the reason. Honestly, I do not know if the 2.7 has the left block drain. And what year is your truck?

 

2007

 

in this thread titled "
2.7 L engine block coolant drain pics g17 guy says there's only 1 on the 2.7

 

That seems to be the consensus on what I finding also.

 

oh really? i guess i'll go with that.what are your thoughts on opening up the heater core hose or hoses?when i flush distilled water inside and the thermostat opens wont it flush the heater core out?

 

I thought of doing the heater core flush. Heard about the possibility of stirring up debris if you don't flush the right way. In through the inlet and out through the outlet.

If it was me I'd keep it simple. Yes, doing a distilled water flush will circulate through the heater core. Once the T-stat is open turn the heater on and fan on high. You could even drive the truck around the block. IMO - A good couple of flushes with distilled water will do the trick.

As I said in post #82, My thinking is if you get 90% of fresh coolant in, your truck is better off than it was. Just saying...

BTW-all you need to do with that block drain bolt is loosen it and watch the flow that comes out of the drain just below the bolt.

 

how do i know which one is the inlet?Also if there is debris in the heater core and i spray hose water into the inlet is it sending the debris into my new radiator?

 

Also i saw a video where a guy took off both hoses and ran water through both inlet and outlet on the firewall,thoughts?

 

At work I pull both hoses, flush the heater core both ways with a garden hose, reinstall, and top off the coolant, if flushing the whole system I pull the heater hoses and lower rad hose and backflush it through the heater hoses.
Tacoma's have block drains so you can open them while your flushing, when your done let everything drain and refill with antifreeze and distillled water.

 

when you backflush it do you pour water in both hoses?

 

I use a garden hose and flush through everything in both directions, unless your cooling system is severely neglected there shouldn't be much sedement to flush out.

 

ok cool i only have one block drain so ill open that along with the rad drain.

 

If both your lower and upper heater hoses are disconnected (DC) I would think you don't need to worry about the block drain, because you are limiting the heater core flush to just that. I would however with everything buttoned up and do a final flush.

What @Dm93 said; "unless your cooling system is severely neglected there shouldn't be much sedement to flush out." Kind of like a transmision. Should I do a flush or a drain and fill?

It's your call.

 

He said just take the lower rad hose off so then i would need the drains open right?yes after i do this flush then i will button things up and flush it with the distilled water then do the coolant and be done with it!Also i have never done a flush on this truck so i think it's way overdue.