05-15 2wd to 4wd conversion guide (for dummies)

PM sent to ref pics.

 

First off- Amazing info from everyone here
2nd- when you say “ground one side to the transfer case” how would one go about doing this (feels like a dumb question but wiring electronics is not an area of strength)

 

@pdaddy

Wanted to thank you for this great guide, helped me connect a few dots I was missing, officially started my parts collection & build- also, this thread/ you finally got me to start a TW account! All the additional posts have also been helpful, I’ve read every single one and the various other reference threads.

One clarification question on ADD wiring- if I buy the aftermarket switch, do I just plug it into the diff (ADD pin/ sensor) and then just route the switch to power and ground the white wire? I was getting hung up on the switch wiring, but I think the aftermarket makes things easier for me.

 

Cut off the connectors to both of the 4hi and 4lo solenoids then bolt one wire onto the transfer case using an eyelet terminal and then run the other wire up to instrument panel. There's a few bolts on the transfer case you can use to bolt the wire to. All the solenoid does is ground the instrument panel terminal so that the light comes when you shift to 4hi or 4lo depending on which you select.

 

You dont even have to ground a wire, its just a trigger wire and not carrying any real load to speak of. Ive got mine setup with no ground and had it like that for over a year and a half and my truck has been fine.

 

Awesome, thanks for the quick responses guys! I saw that you didn’t ground, I think @Ricardo13x also did not ground.

Thanks again!

 

You’re welcome! Yes that’s correct, red wire to ignition power, white to ground. The aftermarket switch comes with a pigtail harness that directly connects with the actuator. Instead of buying the connecter, I spliced right into the factory wire harness

 

So I'm assuming the body of the solenoid is the ground? Good to know, guess the extra grounding is not needed if it still works that way.

 

I fuse tapped into the factory 4wd fuse location under dash for power. Worked perfect and looks factoryish lol.

 

IDK but it works lol.

 

Yea that’s what I did too, thought it was cool lol

 

it is not a solenoid it’s a switch. And the body of it is grounded to the transfer case which is bolted and connected to the motor which is grounded to the frame. So in a round about way it’s grounded. It would be ideal to send one side of the switch directly to a chassis ground to avoid circulating currents, however the switch is only used to drive the LED light on the instrument cluster so there is very little sink current required.

 

Idk why I keep saying solenoids but yeah you're right they're switches

 

Question for the group- I’d like about as high a quality replacement transmission that I can buy. The one linked below seems pretty solid- Any better transmission options or sources than what I’m looking at?

https://spprecision.com/products/a750f-transmission-sale.html

 

I did ground one side(used a solid stud protruding from floorboard and nut that secures the heat shield for the exhaust and cab; I used an eyelet properly sealed ), I’m a nerd when it comes to electrical and don’t like to leave room for errors. As mentioned multiple times these normally open switches on the transfer case are a path to ground for the dashboard light.

 

Seems legit, again idk what’s your budget. I paid around 600 dlls for my F if I recall correctly. I sorted all my parts previous to prices skyrocketing.

 

Non ADD gang!!!!!

 

Got the front end components on. Was really tedious getting the front diff on and then attempting to put the rear Allen bolted mount on.

Excuse the glare from the camera lens protector lol

 

@pdaddy or anyone else- Did you test ADD and switch before bolting diff up and connecting CV axles? Curious if it’s possible and if you did it as it would suck to hook everything up then have an ADD issue.

Thanks in advance!

 

I tested while the diff was in, I got someone to listen underneath for the motor to run. It’s possible, just needs 12V power