NEW RADIATOR FILL AND BLEED

I am doing my best to get this thread to 40 pages!

 

If the concentrate says 50/50 on the bottle, it's partially diluted. You could fill it with 2 gallons of it and still be within normal limits of what Toyota recommends.
There is still water/fluid in the block after a flush.

lol, it's something my Grandpa used to say to me "We are lazy". I was baffled for years until I got what he meant.
Now to look on the floor behind you to see where that 2x4 landed

 

right on!

 

That will get you banned.
Not a good idea.

Transmission fluid change next up?

 

If the concentrate says 50/50 on the bottle, it's partially diluted. You could fill it with 2 gallons of it and still be within normal limits of what Toyota recommends.
There is still water/fluid in the block after a flush. No i got full strength so i'll mix that with the water.so there is just some fluid in the block you cant get out huh.

 

possibly lol i've done that before but been awhile so look out!!!I hear ya on the 40 pages lol

 

You know, you're all right.

 

thank you! lol

 

You work in an automotive shop for a few years and you get to see the handywork of alot of lazy people lol, bolts missing/broken/crossthreaded, wiring not where it belongs, broken connectors, "twist n tape' wire splices instead of butt connectors or soldered connections, etc etc.

 

I’m a butt splice and heat shrink guy myself. Which reminds me, I still need to go tie wrap up the wiring I did adding dual low tone horns to my single horn SR a month or so ago….oops.

 

I prefer to solder and heat shrink if I can, where that isn't possible I like the crimp & seal butt splices (always remember to do the tug test on butt splices).

 

I have a high quality ratchet crimper, you’ll break the wires before you pull the crimp loose with that thing. Those pliar type crimpers are garbage. Have a solder gun reserved for soldering wires to circuit boards etc.

 

I'm to tight to buy a ratchet crimper lol, never had an issue with a plier type crimper, just always remember to do the tug test.

 

I just fill it from the cap. Drive it around for a day, refill. Repeat 2 or 3 times. Make sure you keep your overflow tank full if you do it this way. The lazy man way. PS- I got 309,000 miles, so something's working ok.

 

where ya been you missed all the fun on this thread lol

 

No I didn't. I went to the gym and checked out the hot looking MILFs in tight pants. Beats talking to you guys anyday. Nothing personal.

 

I like it when you get a car from a body shop that doesn’t want to pay diagnosis and thinks the CEL has nothing to do with their work

and you find out in the area they worked on they put a potato in the light bulb socket and used a shoelace to be the “wire” that connects it

certain manufacturers only allow heat shrink crimp connectors because soldering can alter resistance and break/crack over time from any movement, bending, or vibration caused from normal use of the vehicle

I have been told by helicopter mechanics that this is the same principle used in the military, not just automotive repair

with a properly sized crimp connector installed in a staggered position in a harness, used with 3M Super 33, cloth tape, heat shrink tubing, etc you cannot tell a repair has been done in the area aside from a strip of colored tape you’re supposed to wrap on the outside to let people know a repair has been performed in that area.

soldering is also high temperature and difficult, requiring skill/experience and good materials, versus crimping on a butt connector

 

I don't do body work but yea I've had to go behind them and fix electrical stuff.

That's why I prefer to use lead/tin solder, the lead free stuff is hard to solder with and it's much more prone to cracking (that's why cracked solder joints are so common in electronics these days).

 

ok i'll cut you some slack this time lol

 

just an update,i drove it a bit and let it cool and then the rad would suck out the reservoir so i'd fill the reservoir up a bit and kept driving it,letting it cool until the rad was full and isn't sucking anymore and the reservoir is just above the low line and it finally got to the point to where it's not sucking it dry and i'm over 8 qts to fill the rad,remember when i said it would only take 6 qts,no more!Also a side note,generally when you disconnect your battery and then reconnect it the truck runs like crap and doesn't want to idle for a bit till the computer does it's thing and that's what mine was doing but wasn't getting any better after 80 miles drive time so i figured i'd take a look at the air filter and it was filthy,i'm surprised it ran but cleaned it,k&n filter,and it idles and runs great now!