Any woodworkers?

I personally think thick kerfs are garbage unless you’re ripping a ton of heavy stock. Otherwise it wastes more material than necessary, tires your motor, and burns easier. If you’re that concerned about stability, don’t cheap out on blades and/or buy a blade stiffener like: Forrest H4758-5 Saw Stiffener For 10 Blade - 5/8 Arbor

Forrest H4758-5 Saw Stiffener For 10 Blade - 5/8 Arbor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IXJ244Y

 

does that affect depth of cut?

 

I imagine that depends on the table saw. You’re supposed to get one ½ to 2/3 the blade diameter. I don’t use one and my work relies in precision (though, I’m not as anal because I’m comfortable tuning up with hand planes). I get by on a combo Freud and a ripping Freud, both thin kerf.

 

Im mostly doing rip cuts..

 

How thick?

 

Maybe 2in max

 

Well, you’re kind of between both worlds with that. A thicker blade will be more precise and less prone to deflection/overheating. If your table saw is under 3HP, however, the thin will fly through it vs the thick.

 

Anybody work with pine? While I'm waiting for the danish oil to dry and cure in my walnut box I decided to do something with the test/prototype one I built first, out of pine. I don't particularly like pine, and since it's a test box with a fair amount of flaws and ooops, I'm going to try a walnut gel stain.

I took some zinsser clear, un-waxed shellac and cut it 50/50 with denatured alcohol, then put on 2 coats. Tomorrow I'll very lightly sand it then wipe gel stain. My hope is the shellac will prevent blotching. Maybe I should do another shellac coat before... the pine really soaked it up.

 

Its a bit finiky, and prone to warping. I used wood conditioner but it kinda gave it a color i didnt like so i used a darker stain

 

Point I made later in the convo. Burn will happen if feed rate is too slow, too (something that could also happen with an underpowered TS). Otherwise, you can burn with any blade. If you’re ripping thin stock, that adds up quickly.

 

The idea I had (not really mine but from tons of internet searching) is the gel stain is a surface application of color. So seal the wood first, apply the gel stain, then cover it with some protection. I have wood conditioner but have read mixed results using it on pine. I've read of success with shellac.

 

I've got some poplar on a step stool to finish and I would like to make it darker, as the other parts are walnut. I don't like the contrast of nearly white poplar to the warm tones of walnut. Hence my research into blotch control. One of the recent finds is a product from Charles Neal that seems to have a lot of success (reading about it on different forums and sites).

https://thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/blotch-control-to-rule-them-all/

Not sure how far I want to go down this rabbit hole, so I haven't purchased it yet. So easy to get carried away with different products and methods.

 

Anyone gonna try this? Im thinking about it, you have to get a membership then dowload his template.

 

Finally dug out a wood sliver out of my hand, i couldnt see it but it wasnt healing up, so i knew it was there. Scraped some of the callus off and pinched and it popped out. Part of woodworking i guess.

 

Oof yeah those suck. I finally got tired of walking in the house to dig out splinters, and mounted one of these (screw through the end cap hole) to my rack of wood screws, so it’s in the garage and I always know where it is:
https://www.rockler.com/uncle-bills...75LGzIssME6u97rDGA3d9c9wwgpcNMnRoC5hIQAvD_BwE

 

Cool ill have to get one, yeah i couldnt even see a piece to pull the sliver out. Been in my hand at least 2 weeks

 

They’re worth the price, I’d say get a 3 pack so you can have on in a first aid kit too