Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Yeah I think I’m going to do 1/0 for the starter cable and 4 guage for grounds. I don’t think you’d get any voltage drop at only 15 ft though

 

Research first. Last thing you want is a vehicle fire.

If I recall, you have to upsize due to resistance from added length. Otherwise the wires get too hot because resistance = heat. Any electricians in here who could elaborate better?

 

Ahh, well there ya go. I just know many people have had to upsize the gauge due to heat. Idk if it’s because we only run 12 volts or what. But yeah nobody wants to burn up their rig.

 

Here is the calculation for single phase circuits which should include dc. But yes you are correct it’s due to the resistance of the wire.

(2(12.9) x 15 x current)/ 10560.

I’d have to know the actual current draw to calculate which I can measure if my truck wasn’t torn apart. But that’s the calculation in case anyones curious.

 

You 100% need to upsize everything if you’re running it back. No questions asked. If you have a winch that will also need to be upsized. Automotive wiring is substantially different than home/commercial.

 

Ya to be safe I will. 2 gauge to 1/0 should be plenty so that’s what I’m doing.

 

I mean not really though, it’s just a dc circuit vs ac. Which is different. The principles of electricity don’t change though.

 

I'll see if I can't find it but there's a pretty simple chart to figure size wire to length for DC. It's not as scientific as you're getting there.

For your grounds just make better factory grounds to the chassis, eng., and body and then run one at your battery to the chassis, and if you really want to the cab as well, that'll be plenty. Doing the ground that way you can keep the wire smaller like you're thinking. For the power just put a junction block on the inner fender and run the power wire from the battery to that junction block and attach what would be the OE battery cables right to that. I'd run a big ~200A fuse on the main power wire coming off the batt. to that junction block just in case.

 

Science is hard. Don't go dropping Ohms law in here you might let the magic smoke out of some.

 

Yeah it’s probably not a big deal. Just oversize a couple sizes to be safe and make good grounds and hopefully my truck doesn’t start on fire.

 

If it’s going in the cab it should also be a sealed battery.

 

FIFY

 

Unsure of what you really fixed?

 

Terminology.

 

I sure would hope anybody that knows even a little bit about cars knows what a sealed battery is. Because, that is after all what they are known as by many.

 

But technically you do not have to have a sealed battery to have one in the passenger compartment, which is what you were implying. Certainly anyone in the automotive industry would understand that especially looking at pretty most european cars.

 

Main reason I didn’t mention a box is because by the time you buy a nice sealed box, you’re nearly halfway to a good AGM. So at that point, why wouldn’t you upgrade? I guess I just don’t see the reason to pick apart what I said unless you’re just trying to come off that way.

 

I had no idea sealed boxes were a thing so I appreciated the information.

 

If you already have a good Lead acid why not buy the $80 sealed box. Upgrading and doing it right opens up a whole other can of worms with having to upgrade alternator stuff to charge them properly. When 80 bucks and your already good lead acid is a lot cheaper and quicker install. Not to mention later down the road you don't have to spend a min. of $220 bucks on an AGM or the like battery when it's dead.

And yes I was picking apart what you said because it was total bunk what you were implying.

 

This is the one we use to run racing. Back then they were almost 200 bucks.
https://www.moroso.com/sealed-battery-box-black74051/