Long Travel BS Thread

The alignment numbers including scrub radius, wheel offset, tire size etc. all will play a role in this as well.

 

Our version 1 Tacoma/FJ/4Runner performance LCAs were a uniball design, the combination of the F1 tolerance and the shorter arm made the ride less than ideal during street driving and did not have an OEM return to center feel. We have since revised the design using a Moog ball joint and have not had any complaints since then. Smoother ride, less maintenance and less noise.

 

Cool thanks, exactly the kind of info i'm looking for!
Really dig all the builders parts you've been making lately. You should add some delrin bushings or misalignments that fit the factory Tacoma LCA mounts so i can buy those from you as well

 

got any pictures under full rear compression and full droop? I'm curious how close that upper link mount gets to your tube frame at full compression and how much droop you got. Looks sick man. Wish I had the time and tools to do something like this.

 

Thanks man. The upper link mount goes about an inch below the top of the tube and fits in between the V shape in that part of the bed. Nowhere close to making contact with anything. I don’t have any good recent pictures of it at full stuff. Will try to remember to take some when setting the bump stops. Here’s a pic at full droop without the coilovers in. I’ll lift it up with the tractor once it’s out of the garage.

 

We appreciate the positive feedback we have been working really hard to launch our Builders Parts lineup and are consistently working on new products to expand it, so keep an eye out!

 

Wanted to get some feedback on bump stops. I can’t get much more outboard than this without running into something. I’m protected from hard hits at speed, but full tilt I’m riding the rubber Fox bump stop before the yellow ones engage. Word on the street is the shaft bump is more than strong enough to protect the shock. Any thoughts or other places to bump? Keep in mind we mostly crawl here so any g outs are unlikely. I guess the question is can I ride on the Fox shaft bump at full tilt crawling

 

Can you? You can get away with it but should you is the real question. You’re putting the shock under a lot more force in ways it’s not designed to withstand so who knows how long you’ll get away with it until you start damaging parts.

I would try and mount those bumps further out if it were me.

 

I'd look and see what other rock crawler guys suggesting this setup would say - even short course prerunner setups leave space for strike pads on the axles near the coilovers / shocks by leaving the top of the housing free.

 

Couldn't you angle the bump a few degrees and make it ever so slightly longer to make up the gap when flexed?

 

From where the frame looks to sit, it looks like you should have another 4” of up travel before bump. Tough to judge from the pictures, but can you mount the shocks any higher?

 

I’ve got 7” of uptravel which is really too much for here, but I can live with it since the droop is still light years better. I took the bumps off. I’ll figure out a way to get them further outboard. That’s the only way they’re going to work through the range of motion

 

The only thing that’ll keep it consistent through the motion of the axle is having it bump further out, unfortunately.

 

I know it was brought up before and don't have any memory of what it was that led you to mount the shocks on top of the axle (maybe mounting your lower links midway up the housing?). However they're occupying the obvious placement of a bump strikepad on top of the housing. If there's no other acceptable way to do this, maybe you could eventually relocate the shocks to the link and fab new links.

 

I wanted the extra clearance that triangulated lowers would offer over trailing arms especially since everything could mount in between the frame rails. I can probably fit a bump pad next to the coilover, just going to take more effort and I’m getting ants in my pants here at the end

 

lol that's the only reason? Not that the coilover would rub the bump can? Those bumps were basically useless.

 

I think I can come in at an angle from that same frame tube and clear everything. The further out the better. Might have to pick up a decent bump. I think these came from the same factory that makes dog toys.

 

haha I meant at the position they were in. What options were you thinking? Not sure if air bumps would be immediately necessary, but that's the typical route for linked trucks out this way since there's a little more control over their dampening. Might be able to get away with a better poly style bump out near the coilover as they won't have anything you need to worry about clearing the coilovers besides the mount you build. More rushed stuff now leads to more time with the truck down when you redo it in my opinion. Make an attempt to at least make a good bump stop setup.

 

I had wheelers super bumps in the back which I thought were great. Might pick up another pair. Fronts are still nice. Air bumps would probably be a waste on me. I just don’t want anything to shit itself (including me) when I bottom out