Problems with 2021 4Runner TRD Pro wheels install

I have the 2021 4runner pro wheels on my 2nd gen taco no issues

 

I haven't done anything to the fronts of my 2019 TRD Off Road, and have rotated the tires several times without issue.

 

Thank You for the response!

 

you don’t have the ‘21 TRD 4 runner pro wheels, those are the old ones. We all know the old ones fir fine, but thanks.

 

you sure? You install them yourself?

 

Yes sir swapped them from my poor runner

 

Did a test mount for these new 2021+ wheel on my 1st generation on the rear and was able to torque down the wheel and then remove it easily without any sign of the wheel and hub being press fit.

Once get mounted with tires I'll do a drive around for a few days and then check again and if so grind down the hub some. I'd rater keep the OEM toyota wheels than try to ship back and buy the AGP or FSW wheels instead.

Any other 1st gens have any issues?

 

after driving around with new wheels on for a few days, there is no vibration or any other issue i can notice. The rear wheels come off easily, i guess the 1st gen tacomas wheel hub is slightly different than 3rd gens.

 

Ya'll got me nervous. I wanted these for my 2022 TRD Sport (LR) but having second thoughts. Rear hub grind is fine, but the front? Can I get confirmation from a similar year/model? Should either work or not work.

 

Just found this thread. I’m not really sure what to think. I have (I believe) the older wheels which I’ll post a pic of. I believe they are the TRD Sema wheels. They came on my 2021 so either Toyota or the P.O. put them on. They are flush to the hubs and drums just fine once torqued.

I went to do my rotation this weekend and I had to yank all but one of them off. So they are a tight fit to the hub bores. However, they install fine and safely. As for reinstall, I basically have to get the wheel up onto the hub, center the lug nuts in the wheel holes and then use the lug nuts slowly and evenly to pull the wheels onto the hub. It works fine but takes longer.

The wheels I have:



So even if I have the older style and not the 4Runner Pro ones, seems like fitment is still somewhat of an issue even though they work? I don’t mind yanking them off at tire rotation time but it’s a bit strange. I’m more concerned about the tire jocks installing the wheels properly next time they are in there.

I looked at my rear axle shafts and they have the 90° corner, no chamfer, but I did not see a lip inside the wheel bore which is probably why the wheels sit flush against the brakes fine (vs the later wheels). So for me and my 21, I guess the only ‘problem’ is the tight fit and having to yank the wheels + install properly when working on them.

 

I made this mistake, thought I did my research and I failed. My first post here is basically a confession that I bought TRD 4Runner wheels that don’t fit my 23 Tacoma.

Im so annoyed Im willing to practically give them away so my garage is free from boxed up clutter.

If you’re in Phoenix it could be your lucky day.

 

22 Sport, front fit was no issue, rear fit was a little snug, 5 minutes with some 100 grit emery cloth on the hub surface, they fit like the front. I use a very thin application of no-seize, due to the two different materials, no issues so far (7,000 miles, just put the stock sports back on last week).

 

They’re all supposed to fit relatively snug, as Toyota designs them to be hub centric. The lugs are not the conical style base so they don’t center the wheel, hence the hub does. I have found when I do tire rotations, I have to kick the wheels off. They all go back on fine though, the lug nuts “press” the wheels on.

the problems with the wheels in the first post was that they are a newer model and they don’t fit Tacomas properly, they end up not snug against the drum or rotor. That doesn’t apply to the Sema wheels you and I have though.

 

I purchased these this last spring, it was the first time I was aware gloss gray/black TRD caps were available - I thought these were a new model? No issue, they look good, they fit correctly, everybody is just offering some requested help.

 

I was just clarifying - the model you have (and what I also have - just that I have red logo caps instead) are the old Sema model rim. The new 2021 TRD Pro 4Runners have a similar looking but different fitting rim and it doesn’t jive with the Tacomas due to the way the wheel’s hub bore is made (doesn’t work with our rear drum axle shafts). The fact that they are similar looking makes the topic confusing, but the wheels talked about in the first post are different than what you and I have.

All that said, the ones you and I have are supposed to fit snug due to the hub centric design.

 

Well I guess it's not a bad thing that I came across this thread. I've had my new style 4runner trd pro wheels installed since like June, and haven't had any issues directly related to it, so I think. So if I'm understanding what I'm reading correctly, if there is some interference issue with the rear hub i'll have trouble dismounting the rear wheels as if they're press fit to the hub?

Couple other questions regarding this: Are we sure this is an issue for all of us running these wheels? I don't remember the tire shop telling me that there was any sort of fitment issues. I feel like they would've if they noticed it, unless they didn't notice.

As for correcting the issue: Do I need to grind the flat portion of the hub bore down more than it is and then put a 45ish degree chamfer on it, or can I get away with putting a chamfer on it without grinding down that flat edge down first?

Just trying to get an idea because it's definitely something that should get taken care of. After I drive home next week I should definitely check on it. No issue pulling off the rear wheels then no issue I guess?

Anyone use a rattle can to prevent rust, or not necessary? Or like nickel anti seize?

 

As stated, most all wheels will be a tight fit due to the hub design. The problem with the 4R TRD Pro wheels is that they have a lip in the bore that keeps them from seating all the way into the truck’s rear drum axle shafts. You can bore the wheels out more, or chamfer the edge of the axle shafts.

The installing shop might not realize there’s a problem because the lug nuts still torque tight. But when you look behind the rim, you can usually see the rim is not tight against the drum. Naturally, the shop isn’t looking for that so they probably would never know there’s an issue.

The rim being tight to remove is not indicative of anything; all rims should be that way to comply with the hub centric design. My old style wheels are hard to remove, I usually kick the hell out of them.

 

Appreciate the info. Definitely makes sense.

Did you end up chamfering the edge or did you get the wheels bored out? Chamfering seems easier and more cost effective to me, since all it takes is a grinder and some patience I guess.

So if you're saying that the wheel wouldn't be flush, could I just stick a business card between the hub and wheel mounting surface to check, or is that obvious to the naked eye? Or I mean is it a safe enough bet to just assume it?

Correct me if I'm wrong, the only issue is that the hub bore edge on our trucks is a 90 degree edge and the machining inside the wheel is only able to accommodate a chamfered edge? Is it the same depth do or do I need to make that edge a little shallower before adding a chamfer?

Thanks again.

 

I have the old SEMA rims, not the 4R TRD Pro ones, so no issues. I would assume chamfering is easiest, I’ve done that to unit bearings on my Jeep for a brake kit…with a flap disc on an angle grinder and the Jeep in 4x jacked up in gear, it’s pretty easy to be consistent.

If the wheel isn’t flush up to the drum, you should be able to visually see it with a camera through the rim. But yes a business card would tell you also. It probably is safe to assume, seems like anyone with those rims has problems whether or not they realize the issue.

And yes, as far as I know, the issue with those specific rims is the axle shaft hub having that 90° edge. The lip inside the wheel bore is just barely interfering enough to keep the rim from seating all the way, so a chamfered axle shaft or a further bored out wheel fixes it. That’s what I gathered from this thread.

 

Thanks for the info. I guess it doesn't have to be super perfect but yeah, consistency is ideal if possible. Just enough to clear that lip inside the wheel from what I understand.