New Audio System install in 2019 TRD Pro. Tips?

I'm installing a Heigh10 and replacing the JBL speakers (man it's bad, I'm kind of shocked). A previous owner has already put in a JL Audio 1000 watt amp to power a JL Audio 10" Sub. The rest of the system is still the stock Entune (2?) The sub has a volume control setup already on the dash.

I'm combing the forums for some tips, but if anyone can answer any of these questions I'd be much obliged:

- Sound deadening- any ideas on what thickness/brand I should look at? I had my eye on this "kilmat" product on Amazon. 50mil, 50sq ft. Does that seem reasonable?

- Replacement speakers - a lot of options- for the front I was thinking Morel Virtus 2-way. Not sure about the back yet. Do y'all think the Heigh10 will have enough juice for these speakers? I'm not looking for loud as much as clean, flat, studio monitor kind of thing at all amplitude levels.

- If I do go the amp route with the front and rear (sub is dialed with more than enough at 1000 watts), what is a reasonably nice amp for those? I was thinking JL Audio 4 channel 600 watt?

- Are the stock JBL speakers 2ohm? Is there any hope for bringing them to life or is it a lost cause?

- I know the rear door speakers have some odd bracket so they are actually 2.5" (?) drivers in a routing in the door that can handle 6.5"? Is that correct?

Any other thoughts would be appreciated. I'm trying to get everything ordered ASAP as the Stinger Heigh10 is on the way...

 

- Sound deadening. Personally, I stick to 80MIL stuff like Noico. Reasonably priced on Amazon. Recommended to do the doors, roof, back wall, and floor.

-Speakers. What your budget can handle. I like Hertz, Morel and Focal. Just my opinion. Definitely want components, tweeter in the dash, woofer in the door.

-Amp. What your budget can afford. My opinion, JL Audio, Audison and a couple I can’t think of. Try to keep wattage around what the speakers can handle. No sense in paying for something you’ll never use, more wattage.

-Stock JBL speakers. Some save them, others “burn” them. Your HEIGH10 wasn’t made to run the internal amp at 2ohms. Using them might be costly.

-Rear doors. A controversial topic. Some swear by them others at them. I don’t have any in my DC.

 

Don’t drop money on morel if you’re not willing to drop money on an amp for them.

noico is a popular brand of deadening on Amazon. Never used killmat so can’t speak for that

the stinger head won’t put out much power. Definitely won’t put out even “studio monitor” power

stock JBL speakers are 2ohm. If you send them much more power then the JBL amp, they’ll blow.

rear speakers can fit 6.5/6.75” speakers. Make sure to get the correct mounting bracket

 

Thanks @destin_meeks & @ZMan2k2 - I ended up going with the whole she-bang. Wife is gonna be pissed? Maybe? Lol- I went for morel virtus 2-way for the front, morel tempo integra 602 for the back and a JL Audio HD/600. I almost went a little less on the amp, but the specs on that one in terms of THD and noise were way better than the other ones I was looking at. I assume it's a very clean amp. Don't know a lot about these brands.

Thanks for chiming in. It was helpful.

 

Quick question: I'm doing as much info gathering as possible before install. I've found this...

https://www.diymobileaudio.com/thre...ystem-information-signals-pinouts-etc.425585/

which seems like it will be invaluable to tap into the existing speaker cables. I'm going to run new RCA's to the amp(s) from the Heigh10. The whole integration of the head-unit with the amp is kind of weird on these trucks...

Is the "vehicle specific" install guide Crutchfield sends worth a damn?
Is there a great resource I'm missing that might have wiring info for Tacomas? I'm sort of lost in a sea of diagrams I'm not sure are specific to this particular kind of Taco (TRD Pro/JBL 2019)...

 

Not worth it for the crutchfield guide.

I’d buy the PAC t-harness and make life real simple. Maybe the APH-TY01 ?

 

If you are using the HEIGH10 and the JL HD600/4 for the highs, you would run 2 pairs of RCAs to the JL amp, and another pair from the Stinger to the sub amp. You are effectively deleting the JBL amp from the mix.

Doing that, you won’t need to “tie in” to any factory wiring. You will run all your own wiring to the doors. You’ll also eliminate any wiring tiying the sub amp to the factory wiring. Instead of input signal from factory wiring, it would be from “sub out” on the headunit to “in” on the sub amp.

 

Okay cool. That clears things up. As I understand it there is a "passthrough" on the factory tweeter that was kind of confusing me, but if I run all my own wiring it is a lot less confusing for me. The Morel Virtus 602 crossovers could live behind the head unit? I'll find a place for them... thanks for your help.

 

I bought the Heigh10 through Stinger Offroad - I think it includes the harness you're referring to? Or something like it. I think I'll run all my own speaker wire and forget the factory loom that is near the factory amp in the back. I'll just abandon the whole thing and it'll be simpler. Thanks for your help. It is appreciated.

 

Audison IMO. Everything else I’ve heard has some level of color.

 

I’ve always mounted my crossovers in the kick panels by the front door. Easier to get the wiring from the crossover to the speakers that way. There will be two signal wires from the crossover, one for each speaker. Shorter and easier to get each through the door boot so you don’t pinch the wire.

Easiest way to feed the wire through is use electrical tape to tie the wire to a long zip-tie. Strong enough to feed through the boot, but won’t damage the existing wiring.

 

The harness I’m talking about connects to the factory wiring back at the JBL amp. This allows extremely easy connection for your new speakers using factory wiring. Mount your amp and crossovers back in the JBL sub location on the back wall, and utilize factory wiring to each speaker location. The JBL system does not have the “pass through” you mentioned at the tweeters. That is the non-JBL system

 

Color is fine. What I mean more is I find in home audio (and car audio especially), people have very different ideas of what sounds good. I'm looking for clean, flat... nothing hyped. I'll check that brand though, thanks!

 

Good tip. I'll do that.

 

A ha! plot twist... okay... now that makes more sense. I couldn't for the life of me figure out why the JBL amp has wiring for the tweeter (direct), but there was all this about a pass-through. A lot of dodgy info out there, or perhaps it is just that there are so many years/trims that it gets confusing. This is huge though... I may just splice into those looms. There is no room for the amp there as the previous owner put the JL Audio sub there so it won't fit (nicely anyway)... but now things are making more sense and I have some options. Thanks so much for this piece of info. Hopefully this thread will help another person if they go to do the same thing.