Long Travel BS Thread

@Tacoma1192 set up is similar. It's difficult (maybe close to impossible on our trucks except with prerunner trailing arm set ups?) To get the bump and CO to end at the exact same point on suspension travel and articulation. IIRC he was told by accutune that it would be OK. I think his hydro bump partially engages but doesn't bottom out on articulation. If you hit max articulation with enough energy to break something there's a good chance you're about to die or your truck is going to be totalled. IIRC even on my SOA set up the shock and bumps didn't land exactly at the same place and ended up protecting the shocks on articulation and gimped suspension travel a little to do it.

On my own set up with my trailing arms, the axle mount so high on the axle I bottom out the shocks without ever engaging my hydrobump at full articulation. However, I will have 2 shocks supporting the weight and have the bump zone on the bypass to slow the speed at the end of travel.....along with a sway bar so I don't know how often I'll ever actually get to full articulation.

If you were really worried about it you could get some IBP shocks from king or squeeze bypasses in.

Only thing I would recommend would be a dedicated axle side bump strike pad and try to add some gusseting to the bump extension, there may be enough angular force on the bump during articulation to break it off at weld on the base. If there's no way to add strength I would just keep an eye on it and give it good periodic inspections.

 

Lots of straight axle crawler guys mount their bumps on the axle tube instead of the frame. Maybe worth a try.

Otherwise this is also an option. But would involve pulling shocks apart.

https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/fox-0-875-shaft-bumper-front-shock

 

I mean you've seen the g-outs mine has taken no bumps no straps. The reverse slam on boat ramp put a slight bend in the shock shaft and it's still riding dirty. You can find longer rubber bumps that'll compress more or look to go outboard. The hardest part with these set ups for bumps is the amount of articulation requires a larger landing pad since at all the different ranges it'll hit in different spots especially with the further out you go. You can put the bump on the axle then make an angled plate for the frame that will allow different distances for the flex and be easier than locating a big pad on the axle.

 

That’s kinda my thoughts. Those rubber bumps on the shocks are pretty tough, too. It may be the last house on the block so to speak, but they aren’t just there to look pretty and limit travel. Full tilt and trying to bump something is the hardest it’ll get. Probably going to flip if I bump something hard enough to break a shock. I’ll likely run it without bumps and thrash it here at the house to see how often I’m bottoming out. I rarely ran through the four inches of up travel I had before enough to be uncomfortable. If it rides like poo I’ll throw some bumps in. I’m sure I can figure a way to get it almost to the spring perch.

 

I’m running those e-brake limit straps currently, too haha those shocks didn’t have any protection like the Fox do did they? Plus you slammed it hard enough to bend the axle tube, so I’m surprised they didn’t totally blow out haha

 

Pulling the rod end is a bit involved right? Damn that’s a good idea though. Wonder why that’s not as popular? Probably not as strong as a dedicated bump, but still for what I need it looks perfect

 

They have the same black hard rubber bumps as yours.

Get the DCLB cables. If you're patient enough I'm figuring out a tcase mounted ebrake the bracketry is the hardest part.

 

I really only need an extra inch at that mount on the leaf spring mount. It could stretch, but it’s super tight. I’m gonna drop the mount down a bit and it’ll keep it happy at droop.

 

No, just remove the shaft, put it in some soft jaws and put a long screw driver or something that fits the bolt hole and has a lot of leverage and whack it with a mallet. You can use MAPP gas torch to heat it up and melt the loctite if it’s not coming off.

Another option would be to box in the lower link with some flat bar and make a sleeve to allow the use of this style rod end

 

Whose Truck is that? more pictures anywhere?
I'm thinking I need to do a similar setup, packaging a 4 link and a decent exhaust without Axing the bed on a 1st gen dcsb is feeling near impossible to me.

 

Brenthel trophy trucks and Kibbetech uses them on their billet links. Just search Gen 3 Brenthel trophy truck.

 

Just get soft jaws and take it off. Not very involved at all. You wouldn't even have to remove the shaft. And technically speaking unless you want to pay for shock rebuilds you may as well get the tools needed and soft jaws are one of them items.

 

@Bandido here are some other ideas:



https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/long-travel-taco-build-mrk-2.357674/#post-9662401

 

Thats effectively what I was going to do, but the swing and placement of a longer upper link forces you to dump exhaust under the cab, which I'd rather not do...
So I'm thinking to 3 link instead

 

I don't see what you mean at all lol.... they Package their exhaust in typical bed space to prioritize link placement.

 

I’m stumped on exhaust too. I don’t think I can snake around my four link. I bought this little muffler from the parts store. I can fit it right behind where the stock exhaust bolts up under the cab and possibly turn down the end. Maybe it’ll be quiet enough and not stink up the cab…

 

Flip your headers upside down and run it out of the hood. Don’t forget your tractor flaps on it.

 

That or stacks disguised as dual snorkels plus sexually explicit mud flaps.

 

What about some small resonators on either side before the Y then out the back.

 

I’ll take a look and see what could fit. May just take it to a muffler shop and see if they can do something. Depends on how awful it sounds when I crank it haha